About 200° but so much can go wrong before your temp gauge even reads. It's gonna smoke as the oils and paint burn off.
Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser
- Thread starter Beehanger
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This is NOT normal, but didn't actually cause any harm.
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- #343
what do you mean so much can go wrong? Also we’re using a handheld thermostat gun
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- #345
Also my buddy put the positive to negative and negative to position (didnt know yellow line trick) and created bigtime sparks. Maybe blown fuses, or bad ground? Or could this have shorted wires?
Dan
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- #346
Fired it up today, but let the block temp hit 245 for a second when I was adding in coolant and shut it off when I saw that. The temp gauge inside the vehicle was up about 80% of the way there. Read somehwere max breakin temp is 225, am I mistaken? Only ran for 10 minutes in total with a 10 min break in between.Head got to 266.
Everything sounded great, other than that, I'll call it a success when if fully seat the cam tomorrow
Dan
Everything sounded great, other than that, I'll call it a success when if fully seat the cam tomorrow
Dan
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- #347
The rig also dies if I let my foot off the pedal, gives out at 840 rpm about. Is this the rear fast idle screw? And does timing have anything to play with that here either?
It sounds like you need to dial in your carb and timing.
ChaserFJ60
Owner of CruiserHead.com
Ive never seen an FJ60 exhaust glow red before! Your engine is running hot hot hot, My coolant reads at 180, maybe 200 on a hot day. as for block temperature I cant say, shouldnt be too far off. If it all depends on where you measure the temperature too.
I run 190° thermostat. Runs about 202° tops, pulling grades loaded , otherwise 198-200 on the coolant sender in the block under the header.
That picture, the block hadn't reached 160° yet. But those poor valves
. It's been about 4 years since then and thousands of mostly trouble free miles. Turned 125500 miles today. 108° today, but it's a dry heat. I hadn't bothered to charge the revamped AC yet.- Thread starter
- #352
I guess its a sign ive made some progress b/c im discovering LEAKS!!!! Made a post here, trying to figure out how to fix it this weekend as I have showtime, and the leak is a drop every TWO SECONDS!
Input appreciated
Getting a bad leak when the rig is running from timing cover region, made a new post: Timing cover, timing plate, or oil pan leak?! -- Diving in TOMORROW regardless - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/timing-cover-timing-plate-or-oil-pan-leak-diving-in-tomorrow-regardless.1321037/
Input appreciated
Getting a bad leak when the rig is running from timing cover region, made a new post: Timing cover, timing plate, or oil pan leak?! -- Diving in TOMORROW regardless - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/timing-cover-timing-plate-or-oil-pan-leak-diving-in-tomorrow-regardless.1321037/
- Thread starter
- #353
what do you mean by so much can go wrong before your temp gauge even reads?
this is a RED FLAG Dan !
!i have not ever seen headers GLOW like this before , like @ChaserFJ60 says too !
what the hell is going on here brother ?
did you fill the cooling system via the TOP RAD HOSE removed from the Radiator side ONLY , and pour it in holding hose vertically as much as possible ?
did you let it settled out air bubbles , then run it for only say 3-5'ish minutes
then shut off and let sit for a spell and then repeat ?
do you know how hot those headers are when cherry
red like that ?I am going to assume and I never usually do here , that there ceramic coated ?
Is this correct or no ?
.
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- Thread starter
- #355
WE DAMAND ANSWERS @MoaByte!!!this is a RED FLAG Dan !
i have not ever seen headers GLOW like this before , like @ChaserFJ60 says too !
what the hell is going on here brother ?
did you fill the cooling system via the TOP RAD HOSE removed from the Radiator side ONLY , and pour it in holding hose vertically as much as possible ?
did you let it settled out air bubbles , then run it for only say 3-5'ish minutes
then shut off and let sit for a spell and then repeat ?
do you know how hot those headers are when cherry
I am going to assume and I never usually do here , that there ceramic coated ?
Is this correct or no ?
.
View attachment 3548252
Well... Live and learn. 
.
I read the directions. Yep. It said to not adjust the idle Control until it reached operating temp of 160°.
I started it up and it roared to life. I shut it off and checked the directions one more time then fired it up again. It was revving high, close to 3000, but waited reluctantly for the coolant temp to reach 160° before trying to adjust the idle. I had time so I took that picture.
The cause was a vacuum leak and a faulty fuel pressure return gadget. The only damage was ruining the shine on the ceramic coating on the headers. I knew that I high idle was indicative of an intake leak but followed the directions despite my experience. I might be on the spectrum.
I shared it so I might save someone else the same grief.
That was 4 years ago and my header's haven't glowed red since.
(This is regarding my Sniper 2300 install while desmogging)
.I read the directions. Yep. It said to not adjust the idle Control until it reached operating temp of 160°.
I started it up and it roared to life. I shut it off and checked the directions one more time then fired it up again. It was revving high, close to 3000, but waited reluctantly for the coolant temp to reach 160° before trying to adjust the idle. I had time so I took that picture.
The cause was a vacuum leak and a faulty fuel pressure return gadget. The only damage was ruining the shine on the ceramic coating on the headers. I knew that I high idle was indicative of an intake leak but followed the directions despite my experience. I might be on the spectrum.
I shared it so I might save someone else the same grief.
That was 4 years ago and my header's haven't glowed red since.
(This is regarding my Sniper 2300 install while desmogging)
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- Thread starter
- #357
Dealing with some vacuum stuff. I can get it to idle at 490, it’s just super rough and vacuum is at 12 mercury. I can get it to 15 mercury at 800 rpm and it actually looks steady when I advance the timing. But it doesn’t last. It’s impossible to tune still though.Well... Live and learn.
I read the directions. Yep. It said to not adjust the idle Control until it reached operating temp of 160°.
I started it up and it roared to life. I shut it off and checked the directions one more time then fired it up again. It was revving high, close to 3000, but waited reluctantly for the coolant temp to reach 160° before trying to adjust the idle. I had time so I took that picture.
The cause was a vacuum leak and a faulty fuel pressure return gadget. The only damage was ruining the shine on the ceramic coating on the headers. I knew that I high idle was indicative of an intake leak but followed the directions despite my experience. I might be on the spectrum.
I shared it so I might save someone else the same grief.
That was 4 years ago and my header's haven't glowed red since.
(This is regarding my Sniper 2300 install while desmogging)
Sprayed soapy water on intake surfaces everywhere and nothing was getting sucked in, but brake cleaner was causing revving. I guess it’s possible the brake cleaner spray direction made its way to the carb by deflecting the hood.
I sprayed on the EGR blckjkfd plate and got a huge drop in RPM a few times in a row, but minutes later it stopped having an effect but vacuum stayed the same?
Can vacuum/ intake leaks come and go?
Can a too tight if valve be chasing this?
Is going underneath the vehicle and using brake cleaner on the underside mating surfaces needed or does spraying above give same results? Don’t know how to do soapy water method on underside of intake, and brake cleaner method is inconsistent seemingly.
Is a 12-15 mercury reading at idle a guarantee of an intake leak?
Pop off the valve cover and adjust your valves. It seems common to neglect that important maintenance item. You may have missed a vacuum port somewhere. The carb spacer is a common leak area.
The soapy water trick worked well for me but an unlit propane torch with the gas turned low might help. Using that brake cleaner near the distributor has caused me some excitement.
A valve stuck can quickly be found with a compression gauge.
The soapy water trick worked well for me but an unlit propane torch with the gas turned low might help. Using that brake cleaner near the distributor has caused me some excitement.
A valve stuck can quickly be found with a compression gauge.
Deleted because I can’t read.
- Thread starter
- #360
What do you mean has caused you some excitement?
