Builds Adventure Cruiser "Rosey" - How Many More Times...

[BMValentine]

I've taken a long break from posting on my build thread, it was a good break. I suppose it is time for an update. Rig has been put back together and have been driving it here and there, got be there and back on a trip to Pinehurst, NC back in October, that was a fun trip to go golfing with some buddies. That trip put re-gearing on the front of my mind as pushing the bigger, heavier tires was slow at times. Over the New Years holiday we decided to take the Cruiser to Raleigh to visit some family. Well that trip was a nightmare, noticed the transmission wasn't shifting so good, then quickly wasn't shifting at all. So, kept it at about 2500 rpm until I could safely get off the freeway and stop, upon stopping the ATF was smoking. Had to call AAA to tow it to "Clayton Lube & Tune," name of the shop is important in this story. I feared the worst, and the shop confirmed my fears, but came back with a quote of $7,700 to rebuild the transmission. So I called some more local shops and they confirmed that was extremely high. The shop also said my head gasket was blown and quoted me another $2,300 to fix that. So I paid the shop their diagnostic fee and shipped it back to Va. Beach. Upon, the local shop taking a look they asked what the shop had told me in Clayton, because upon doing a compression check all cylinders were at 150 psi, one cylinder was fluctuating but once the engine was warm, it held psi fine. Transmission was low on ATF and had a leak coming from the transmission pan, so transmission wasn't bad either. So a flush and new pan on the transmission, new gauges to monitor temps on both the trans and the engine, a valve lashing adjustment and Rosie will be back early next week. I'll be sending the 3rd's out to get 5.29 gears and have a Eaton E-Locker installed in the rear when I get the cruiser back and can pull the diffs out. While it is apart I will address the caster angle of the front axle.

So if you find yourself in Clayton stay away from Clayton Lube & Tune, seems they thought they could take advantage of someone trying to get their vehicle back. While I thought the transmission was bad and head gasket blown did some research on engine swaps, Tommy may have me convinced the chevy V8 route is the way to go though. Also, after seeing all the kits come out, may be putting the 80 series front axle I have under the some coils and then under the cruiser.

 

[pistonpete]

It never ends !!

 

[tmxmotorsports]

@BMValentine just remember once you do an engine swap you will be over geared

 

[BMValentine]

@BMValentine just remember once you do an engine swap you will be over geared

Hmm, so what gearing do you typically use for the Chevy V8’s?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

No where near 5.29 gear ratio used 3.70 on the last one with 32 falken at3 with a 4l80e transmission can't remember the rpm at 60mph but felt great. I know your running 35s 4.11 will do the trick 4.56 will turn a higher rpm of course but 4.56 won't help you right now with the 3fe if its going to be a while before the swap i will recommend doing the gear change to make your engine and slush box stay alive. Just a heads up i set up gears too.

 

[BMValentine]

I didn’t realize they would be that low. We are a bit away from swapping.

 

[BMValentine]

Time to get back into the swing of building. After a nearly blown transmission scare and after I saw the cost to rebuild the A440F, I set out to find a better solution. Everywhere I searched wanted $4,000+ just to rebuild the transmission. After reading A BUNCH of motor swap threads. I was convinced that I can get most of my major parts for the price of a rebuild. So that's what I'm doing. I have acquired a 5.3l LM7 out of a 2004 GMC Yukon with roughly 150k miles on it. I am in the process of doing a deep clean on the motor and have pulled the heads. Internals look clean and I am in the process of honing the valves and will be resealing with all new bolts and gaskets.

In the meantime I need to start acquiring parts. My plans are as follows:

• AA Adapter to mate the splitcase to a 4L60E
  • I'm choosing a 4L60E as the cost to go with the 4L80E doesn't make sense as the motor will be stock and most threads use the 4L60E with no problems
• AA motor mounts - on the fence here but others use them and are wishy washy on them but don't recommend another option.
• My Engine & Transmission control needs will be met with Holley's Terminator X series.
  • Wiring Harness included and will give me a ton of control
• I'm going the electric fan route, dual electrics which I can control with the Terminator
• Fuel delivery will be an in-tank option, and will more than likely go with the deal that Mosley motors has on his website.

Couple of questions:

• Radiator: will it be better to run the champion aluminum radiator I currently have, or, better to take my old factory radiator to a shop and have it modified to support the LM7?
  • I would love to get what Mosley Motors has produced for V8 Swaps but it is awfully pricey, may be a good upgrade down the line
• What is the difference in length for the LM7+4L60E+AAdapter+Transfercase vs. the 3FE+A440F+Transfercase?
  • I haven't seen where people have done a 4L60E in an FJ62, everyone I see either reuses their H55f that they had or run a NV4500
  • I'm trying to get an idea where the engine placement will be with this setup.

note: made edits to the First Post to show what my plans are for what I am deeming this as "Phase 2"
Pictures will be forthcoming.

 

[cruisermatt]

Stock radiator will be fine if it's in good shape.
I like OEM GM mounts. The AA hockey pucks suck
If you have an FJ62 you can just use the pump that's already in the tank. @tmxmotorsports makes a drop-in for FJ62 tanks if you really want it to be universal but I like using the FJ62 setup as it is. The stock pump is fine for stock power levels.
I would say most swaps use the 4l60, at least 95% of them, not sure why you can't find threads with that
I'm doing a 5.3/4l60 on another FJ62 right now

 

[BMValentine]

Stock radiator will be fine if it's in good shape.
I like OEM GM mounts. The AA hockey pucks suck
If you have an FJ62 you can just use the pump that's already in the tank. @tmxmotorsports makes a drop-in for FJ62 tanks if you really want it to be universal but I like using the FJ62 setup as it is. The stock pump is fine for stock power levels.
I would say most swaps use the 4l60, at least 95% of them, not sure why you can't find threads with that
I'm doing a 5.3/4l60 on another FJ62 right now

I can find them for the FJ60's but If I do find them for an FJ62, the images are no longer available or they don't go in to detail on the trans part. I don't have all the parts yet so I can't measure the differences in length yet. I'm hoping someone who has done it may have some measurements. If I use the stock fuel pump do I need to run a regulator then? I've seen where some people use the GM fuel filters that have the built in regulators, will this suffice?

 

[cruisermatt]

I can find them for the FJ60's but If I do find them for an FJ62, the images are no longer available or they don't go in to detail on the trans part. I don't have all the parts yet so I can't measure the differences in length yet. I'm hoping someone who has done it may have some measurements. If I use the stock fuel pump do I need to run a regulator then? I've seen where some people use the GM fuel filters that have the built in regulators, will this suffice?

Depends on what fuel rail you use, you can use a return-style rail on the motor and then it's simple as hooking up your FJ62 fuel lines to the motor. I'm going to run a adapter to the FJ62 fuel filter so it's a universal hose from there to the motor.
If you run a return-less rail then you need a fuel pressure regulator somewhere

 

[BMValentine]

Depends on what fuel rail you use, you can use a return-style rail on the motor and then it's simple as hooking up your FJ62 fuel lines to the motor. I'm going to run a adapter to the FJ62 fuel filter so it's a universal hose from there to the motor.
If you run a return-less rail then you need a fuel pressure regulator somewhere

From what I have seen, the stock setup on the '04 Yukon uses a return-style. I think stock setup will be best for serviceability and parts availability so I'll probably go that route. I was a little worried about this aspect but it seems I was overthinking it.