Look, we're all just trying to help. Personally I like it when someone will do research on there own too in order to gain a better understanding of the dynamics. It's ultimately up to you. Many of us have done this before, frequently more than once but if in your situation you need to get the rig back on the road and need to drive it with this set up then that's what you need to do. The good thing is that you'll at least be looking for those driving instances where handling might not be what you expected and that will make you a safer driver as long as you can drive to the rig's characteristics.
Builds Adventure Cruiser "Rosey" - How Many More Times... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BMValentine
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A good way to understand caster and how it effects the plane (and feel) in which a wheel turns L & R....get a bike wheel mounted in a front fork off the bike frame and pivot the fork from vertical to forward, and vertical to rearward (mimicking -/+ caster) and turn the wheel L & R and feel the difference in how the bike wheel pivots against the ground.
Think about a really long forked chopper motorcycle for extreme positive caster, it literally has to lift the tire over its axis and "flop" to L & R. Steering is harder and sucks. Compare to the more vertical fork angle of a crotch rocket bike, much easier, responsive steering. Forward of vertical (negative caster) makes stuff real twitchy, death wobble, etc..
The bike fork angle in this example is the same as the trunion/knuckle bearing angle on our hubs.
Think about a really long forked chopper motorcycle for extreme positive caster, it literally has to lift the tire over its axis and "flop" to L & R. Steering is harder and sucks. Compare to the more vertical fork angle of a crotch rocket bike, much easier, responsive steering. Forward of vertical (negative caster) makes stuff real twitchy, death wobble, etc..
The bike fork angle in this example is the same as the trunion/knuckle bearing angle on our hubs.
Exactly my sentiment.
@BMValentine
Here's what it feels like you're doing from my perspective. You ask "what should I do?". People say "do this, it's what works. that's what i did on my truck". You then ask "why i should do that instead of keep it the way it is?".
HTH, but people will tend to be short with you unless you research on your own first. Do some research on applications that use 10+ degrees of caster, and the reasons behind it. Too low/negative caster will cause wander, dartiness, uneven tire wear. Too high/positive caster will cause numb steering, light steering, uneven tire wear.
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tmxmotorsports
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No one is jumping down your throat the caster angles that have been told to you are not personal preference its how it is i dont care if its a stock truck slammed or 24inchs of lift those are the peramiters you have to work around and has been explained over and over in your thread. I suggest sitting down for a couple of hours and do your research so you may comprehend what has been explained to.
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- #325
I appreciate the responses, first let me apologize for being a bit snippy. I have been researching this topic a fair bit and have found many opinions on different caster angles. It seemed as if I would find a lot of "I ran this so you should too" type approaches and frankly I don't know people on here so I have to follow up to develop my opinion on their credibility. Also, I have had the rig on the road for short test drives and haven't noticed any major red flags with the steering, granted the highest speed I have gone is about 45mph give or take, really the steering felt pretty good, which is also why I was asking for deeper explanations.
That's a fair perspective. Take time to explain that along with your question next time. We don't know you either, but we know each other in many respects, so it's easy for us to pile on.
tmxmotorsports
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I live an hour away lol
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- #328
We need to meet up. I am going to go ahead and order new perches and set the front axle up to have a dc front driveshaft and do a cut and turn to get the recommended caster angle.
tmxmotorsports
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You got my number
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- #330
So with regards to the new radiator and transmission cooler. When I replace my radiator I am going to add a transmission cooler. they are not connected to each other correct? so I will install them in separate circuits? the fact that the transmission cooler is integrated into the fj62 radiator has me a tad bit confused as to the proper installation. The writeups I have found about adding a transmission cooler all use the stock radiator.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Have you figured out where its leaking transmission fluid? The factory 62 radiator has a small transmission cooler built-in so in most treads the fluid comes out of the transmission into the passenger side of the radiator then exits from driver side then back to the transmission. When adding the additional trans cooler the trans fluid would come out of the transmission then into the cooler built-in the radiator then the driver side output will be the input for the external trans cooler then the other side of the external trans cooler goes back to the transmission. In your case with the champion radiator the two lines going to the old radiator will needt to be extended to the external transmission cooler. Need to find out where its leakingtransmission fluid from because some lines can be redone with #6an lines and fittings can actually run #6an back to the transmission and get rid of any of the factory lines if need be.
Tommy
Tommy
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- #332
Ok, I'm on the same page then. I'll have to look tomorrow and see where exactly the leak is, the goal is to run all brand new line so I can have the piece of mind. Is it better to go all flexible line or run a combo of hard and soft, I wouldn't mind bending and forming my own line like I was able to do with the brake line, is that possible with the eastwood flaring tool?
tmxmotorsports
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- #334
I think it is going to be breaking everything apart, and then going from there.
tmxmotorsports
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Replace that power steering pump hose when you do the radiator and look up the fan shroud mod its in the faq section and make for damn sure the oil galley plug fix has been done that is also in the faq
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- #336
The power steering line has already been replaced. That was a b***h and a half to replace! I know I’ve read about the fan shroud mod, so will definitely look that back up and do it as I’m sure I’m about to learn how much of a pain that is to deal with. The oil galley plug is also on my list. Do you have tap and dies? I don’t, although I’m not opposed to getting a set.
When people add a transmission cooler, most often they disconnect the factory radiator integrated transmission cooler and ignore it. In its place, they put an airflow style (cooled by air flowing over it) transmission cooler in front of the radiator/ac condenser. A larger transmission cooler in front of the radiator will be able to shed more heat than the factory cooler. Furthermore, the difference in temperature between the ambient air and the transmission fluid temp will usually be greater than between transmission fluid temp and coolant temp, meaning you'll be able to (in theory) shed more heat to the air than to the coolant.
This is an example where you should do more research.
This is an example where you should do more research.
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- Thread starter
- #338
I’m going to add a trans cooler as you mentioned, air cooled and positioned in front of the new radiator. I already have the cooler, what I am having trouble finding is the fittings and the lines I should use.
All the factory stuff uses slip-on style fittings and iirc 3/8" fluid line from autozone will slide over.
