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I picked up about 4 different tools and grind them all down. That one you posted was by far the best so far.
Adjusting wheel cylinders on the drum brakes - so difficult.... (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Ezra
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I picked up about 4 different tools and grind them all down. That one you posted was by far the best so far.
Kayaker
SILVER Star
Actually, it was much simpler than that: I did a Google search by typing in "Toyota Land Cruiser brake adjustment tool". Had that not turned up a likely source, I'd have clicked on the images tab in Google and looked at the pictures until I saw a picture of my tool. Interestingly enough, I just tried that and the images of this tool that I've posted on other IH8MUD discussion threads shows up pretty near the top. Again, it helps if you know exactly what you're looking for.
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So, I got them much closer. It is pulling slightly to the right, but I assume I should just let the front right out a few clicks and see if it improves.
Bled all the brakes, but I am feeling that the brake pedal is engaging much lower than it was, and when I release the pedal the red brake light (the one that comes on when the parking brake is engaged...well, sometimes) flashes. When I first got the truck the brakes were TERRIBLY adjusted, and that light was flashing a lot more often. Is this from a lack of pressure in the hydraulic system?
Do I need another bleed?
Thanks all.
Bled all the brakes, but I am feeling that the brake pedal is engaging much lower than it was, and when I release the pedal the red brake light (the one that comes on when the parking brake is engaged...well, sometimes) flashes. When I first got the truck the brakes were TERRIBLY adjusted, and that light was flashing a lot more often. Is this from a lack of pressure in the hydraulic system?
Do I need another bleed?
Thanks all.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
good work on your brakes, sounds like you are close. I had to adjust the brake light switch on my 76 once for the same reason, red light would sometimes stay on with no brake pressure being applied. If you haven't messed with your brake light switch, it's threaded in your pedal bucket under the dash.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
The switch is finicky for that red light. There is a threaded adjuster that you need to play with a bit. That red light should come on when the parking brake is fully engaged. Then it should go off when the brake pedal is stepped on or the parking brake released. Bleeding should have no impact on the light.
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Usually it doesn't come on at all. sometimes when the parking brake is on. But as I said, when the brakes were really poorly adjusted (when I first purchased the truck) it would come on during normal driving use.
As I understand it the light it linked to both the brake switch as well as a sensor on the master cylinder that lights up when the fluid is low or there is a leak (I assume it is just a pressure sensor). Which would be in line with what I have been witnessing. I think i need to give it a more thorough bleeding.
on a related note, anyone aware of any speed bleeders for the FJ40? The girl hates helping.
As I understand it the light it linked to both the brake switch as well as a sensor on the master cylinder that lights up when the fluid is low or there is a leak (I assume it is just a pressure sensor). Which would be in line with what I have been witnessing. I think i need to give it a more thorough bleeding.
on a related note, anyone aware of any speed bleeders for the FJ40? The girl hates helping.
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10mm speed bleeders are available from Dorman/HELP. Appx $10/pr.
Agree with @thebigredrocker , you are close. Since your pedal is low, try tightening up the other side so that it pulls just as much as the one you think is pulling now.
If you don't get this solved, I will be in Oakland /S.F. in a month.
Agree with @thebigredrocker , you are close. Since your pedal is low, try tightening up the other side so that it pulls just as much as the one you think is pulling now.
If you don't get this solved, I will be in Oakland /S.F. in a month.
I'm a mechanical idiot and did a disc conversion a couple weeks ago and couldn't believe how easy it was. You may want to look into it if you keep having issues with the drums. I stop straight as an arrow now with zero pulling and zero squealing. Massive improvement.
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Did you get this fixed Ezra? I solo adjusted mine on my 1970 and drove it 3000km across the outback - no dramas. When I rebuilt my front axle I followed Coolerman's brake tutorial. I also pull the drum out a little so I can see the shoe to make sure it's touching the drum evenly and is centred etc. I use a stubby screwdriver and a long one depending on which slot. I just accept that it's a pain.
Mark, I thought they should be a 9mm bleeder for Ezra's truck? I'm after a full set of 9mm bleeder nipples for my 1970 but I think they're NLA. PM sent re: Googling tips.
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Ezra's is a '72. I've never even tried to look for a 9mm version.
It's amazing how just a couple of clicks on the adjuster will give you better pedal. Drums are a pain but I just commit to it and take my time. I'm always pleased after a proper adjustment session.
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Second that. There is an extra measure of satisfaction in mastering something that many give up on. There is a difference between moving on from something you've mastered to running away from something you can't handle and rationalizing it. I have been dealing with drum brakes on my four rigs for over two decades. I bought a disc conversion from a forum member last year and will do the first conversion on one of my own rigs soon. Soon is a relative term.
I call it "my week to 10 year" plan.
GA Architect
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I have been living with drum brakes on the '70 and '79 FJ40's and cursed the adjusting of the front shoe. Last night I was talking to a gearhead friend in the States and lamenting that adjusting the front shoe is terrible. That if you remove the drum and adjust just so you can get the drum back on, it is too loose. Immediately he said drill the drum, many vehicles have it from the factory. A quick search found this link for Corvairs and I saw that C30 Chevy Trucks had it from the factory. The Corvair requires you to finish punching a location and instructs to install a rubber plug afterwards. GMPartsWiki - Corvair Chassis Shop Manual December 1964
I have done a lot of modifications on cars over the years brakes are one spot I am conservative on. Good proven upgrades are one thing but i don't want any R&R on my wheels at any speed. My suggestion is if you are staying with stock, stay with the way they were originally put on.
Growing up tinkering with cars drum brakes were the norm so when I got my Toy the two cylinders per drum was new to me bur otherwise not too difficult.
One of the first things that I quickly learned when adjusting Land Cruiser drum brakes was press the brake peddle every once in awhile when adjusting them.
When you have the drums off exposing the shoes and cylinders, Make a note in your repair manual which way tightening and loosening goes. It might already be in the manuals but after 44 years I pretty much know my Cruiser inside and out so haven't looked at the books for a long time.
For tools I have a couple of brake spoons that I have ground to fit and a special stubby screw driver.
I find that the very front adjusting slot on the front backing plate is hardest and that is where the modified brake spoon comes in handy. The rest I usually just use the stubby screwdriver.
I'm just about to do the adjustment on my '74 after replacing all the wheel cylinders. I did a quick search and found this thread. As for how to get the drums off...I was having a problem getting my front drums off. I read that some like to use a torch to heat up the drums. I tried it and I was absolutely shocked at how well it worked. I had to hold the torch on them for quite some time but they really didn't need to heat up that much and I could still touch them. They just about fell off. Super pleased to learn this technique.
