Drum Brakes not moving, rebuilt cylinders, still not moving (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

How's the pedal height when you intially press on the pedal? Does the pedal height improve if you pump the brake pedal?
 
Are your brake lines hard all the back or do you have any rubber lines in the circuit?
 
Hey everyone i know there are countless drum brake threads i had pretty much read them all. I have an fj45 Troop carrier drum brakes all around 2 wheel cylinders per wheel. The front brakes are working fine. the rear brake however the wheel cylinders do not move at all when i push the brake. They get fluid to them and bleed with no dramas though. I have taken the wheel cylinders out of the right wheel, took them apart and cleaned them both (one was a bit siezed on one side but i cleaned it no worries) Put them back together, installed them with the drums, profusely bled them. Still no movement at all. What else can i do?


where did you source the wheel cylinder kits ?

what brand name is on the parts bag and or box

post photos of all this below , especially ALL part numbers on each kit parts bag or box please


i can then assess these topic in detail for you ....

this is really your next BIG step # 2 here ,,,

we confirm and verify you have correct application parts ?

- you do , then this is goog , we rule this out
you brake system problem cause it NOT the fresh work you just did


- if i spot a glitch of ANY sort or kind ?
then we zero in in on that topic first

- DO NOT go looking for other random speculation problems that may or may not exist ?

- confirm and verify approach will eventually self diagnose itself for you right in front of your eyes as your do the step by FSM steps in order


but first all parts info required above posted below ....


THIS IS THE WAY ...... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :cool:



1630908291613.png
 
I have a small update, i got my partner to pump the brakes to help me bleed them. i noticed the lid of the reservoir on the master (the one for the rear, there are 2) was getting sucked down and the brake fluid inside was moving and bubbling inside, but not in the reservoir for the front. I did bleed the master again today. what could this mean?
 
sounds like you have air in your master or the upper brake lines.

not sure why the reservoir cap is sucking in. that shouldn’t happen.
Let's see; pump fluid out, cap sucks in. Obstructed vent in cap? Can't be, it's a new MC. :meh:

When you bleed the brakes, is the cap on or off? Most likely off to replenish the reservoir level. In other words, "vented".
 
Let's see; pump fluid out, cap sucks in. Obstructed vent in cap? Can't be, it's a new MC. :meh:

When you bleed the brakes, is the cap on or off? Most likely off to replenish the reservoir level. In other words, "vented".
Ive been doing it with the cap on. I wish i could provide some photos buy my phone broke on me the other day
 
Ive been doing it with the cap on. I wish i could provide some photos buy my phone broke on me the other day

Now bleed with the cap off, and clean out the vent path through the cap. Keep the fluid level less than full, in case you continue to get bubbles coming up through the reservoir.

Also, the only assured way I've bled my brakes successfully is to crank the adjusters up tight against the drum so the pistons don't move when you bleed. That way, you get a full hard pedal before you release the bleeder screw, collapsing all the air bubbles to their smallest possible size.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom