Adjusting wheel cylinders on the drum brakes - so difficult.... (1 Viewer)

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Is this just tediously difficult or am I doing something wrong.

PO installed all cylinders on the wrong side - to tighten the cylinders I would start with the screwdriver angled away from the center of the wheel. I always adjusted with a screwdriver.

I blew a cylinder, and decided to replace all the front cylinders, and correct their orientation. One side effect of mixing up the sides was that the front cylinders were adjusted from the bottom. With the correct orientation I now have to adjust the front most cylinder from the top of the wheel, and between the brake hard lines and the steering linkage I just dont see any easy way of getting in there.

I did purchase a "brake spoon" but its way too big, maybe that would make it easier.

Does anyone have a trick to not making this a crazy difficult process.

Also is there a technique for pre-adjusting before putting the drum back on so that I am not going from all the way loose to all the way tight?

Thanks.
 
Others may have other suggestions, but here are mine.

1. Figure out the correct way to turn each adjuster wheel with the drum off (sounds like you did that).
2. Put drum and wheel back on, turn adjuster wheels such that the shoes touch the drum (see tool description below)
3. Back off each adjuster a couple turns and check for rubbing when spinning the wheel.

For the adjusting tool, I have a special flat bladed screwdriver that I heated up and bent. Imagine a small to medium sized flat screwdriver, lay it down flat on a table pointing away from you at 12 o clock, with the blade oriented parallel to the table. Heat up the screwdriver and bend the tip 90 degrees to the right, so that the screwdriver blade is aligned with the plane of your bend and still aligned with the table. This tool allows the reach and the angle to get at the adjusters, at least on my rig. Sorry I know that part is tough to explain but I don't have the tool available for a picture at the moment.
 
I think every 40 owner that does their own service has a 'special' adjusting tool. Mine is a stubby screwdriver that I found was the perfect length for leverage, but gives me plenty of stroke.:)
 
A commercially available brake adjustment tool and a bench grinder makes for a customized super duper 40 drum brake adjustment tool :D.......just grind the width of the blades on the tool to fit the slot on the backing plate.
Unless my truck is backwards.....turning adjustment wheels towards the axle tightens them and away from the axle loosens them.
Jack up the truck.Turn the wheels until the shoes are locked against the drums......then back off 5 turns.Take it for a spin.Jack it up again.Test.Adjust again if needed.
Lots of other things to complicate.......40 some odd year old drum brakes ain't one of 'em:bounce:
 
I used the same tech as@reddingcruiser did with mine when I replaced all my cylinders. I also bent my straight slot screwdiver at an angle in a vise which seemed to help acess to the slot and visibility for adjusting.
 
I'll attest to adjusting drums just being tedious and a big pain in the arse..

I just finished putting new brake cylinders all the way around on my 75' 45 and I couldn't believe how many times I had to turn the wheel cylinder to lock the wheel up. After I got the wheel to lock up I'd back off the cylinder 2-3 clicks. Worked for me.

As for which way to turn the cylinders to tighten them up I think of it like this. If your cruiser is in a lift and you are standing under it looking at the back of the tire (where you can see the adjusting slot) always turn the cylinder towards the axle. HTH
 
Here's my adjuster. I bent a screw driver. Works great
IMG_3713.JPG
 
Any reason not to intentionally revers the cylinders to provide better access?
 
1.I have the factory adjuster spoon. It is a LOT smaller than what they sell in the store. That in itself is a help.

2. It is a lot easier to LOOSEN an adjuster than tighten one. If I've had to disassemble a worn in set of shoes to rebuild cylinders I set the adjusters up four full turns out before reinstalling the shoes. If the drum won't clear, I loosen the cylinders from inside until it does. Even for a 30 year veteran, the less spoon work the better .

3. I've been meaning to post this to my FAQ for a long time. I'm glad your question reminded me to post it. One step closer (still waiting to regain access to my website)
 
1.I have the factory adjuster spoon. It is a LOT smaller than what they sell in the store. That in itself is a help.

2. It is a lot easier to LOOSEN an adjuster than tighten one. If I've had to disassemble a worn in set of shoes to rebuild cylinders I set the adjusters up four full turns out before reinstalling the shoes. If the drum won't clear, I loosen the cylinders from inside until it does. Even for a 30 year veteran, the less spoon work the better .

3. I've been meaning to post this to my FAQ for a long time. I'm glad your question reminded me to post it. One step closer (still waiting to regain access to my website)

Would love to see a pic of the factory spoon.

Taking my tools to the grinder this evening.

Also, when tightening the brakes do you tighten until they catch or just until they touch?
 
Prior to adjustments tighten until the truck wheels are bound and won't turn.
Back off 5 turns at adjustment.You should have slight drag between shoes and drums.
Get the hang of it and you'll be an expert at drum brake adjustment :clap:
 
Here are some images of the Toyota tool along with a 9mm wrench for comparison purposes. This guy is worth it's weight in gold. It is apparent that the engineers knew just the right dimensions for use on Land Cruiser brakes.
DSC08781.JPG
DSC08782.JPG
 
One extra tip that I had learned to minimize flying adjuster tools and excessive cussing is pressing the brake to help center the shoes in the drum. If one is off a little it will cause false engagement.
 
Try one of these (available just about everywhere) if you can't find a Toyota San original.Modify the blade width via bench grinder and you are good to go.

image.jpeg
 
You really can't appreciate the angles and bends on the Toyota tool until you use it. They are absolutely perfect for the job. They provide the maximum leverage, amount of rotation and clearance of the other parts of the drive train that you have to work around when adjusting the brakes. CruiserParts.net has the tool in stock. It's $15. Do yourself a big favor and get the factory tool; you won't regret it.

Here's the link; hope it works. Brake Adjustment Tool [09704-10010] - $14.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
You really can't appreciate the angles and bends on the Toyota tool until you use it. They are absolutely perfect for the job. They provide the maximum leverage, amount of rotation and clearance of the other parts of the drive train that you have to work around when adjusting the brakes. CruiserParts.net has the tool in stock. It's $15. Do yourself a big favor and get the factory tool; you won't regret it.

Here's the link; hope it works. Brake Adjustment Tool [09704-10010] - $14.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

Thanks for the link. I didn't know that existed.
 
Thanks for the link. I didn't know that existed.

Can't take much credit; I just Googled it and it popped right up. I've noticed that if you know exactly what you're looking for, that works pretty well; other wise - lots a luck.
 
Can't take much credit; I just Googled it and it popped right up. I've noticed that if you know exactly what you're looking for, that works pretty well; other wise - lots a luck.

I want to learn how to Google. Please Tell me how you typed the search.
 
@65swb45

I want to learn how to Google. Please Tell me how you typed the search.

Mark, if you have the part number, and google it (09704-10010), the Cruiserparts.net comes up, top of the list.

I guess that's what Kayaker meant when he posted, "if you know exactly what you're looking for, that works pretty well; other wise - lots a luck."
 

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