Hey everyone i know there are countless drum brake threads i had pretty much read them all. I have an fj45 Troop carrier drum brakes all around 2 wheel cylinders per wheel. The front brakes are working fine. the rear brake however the wheel cylinders do not move at all when i push the brake. They get fluid to them and bleed with no dramas though. I have taken the wheel cylinders out of the right wheel, took them apart and cleaned them both (one was a bit siezed on one side but i cleaned it no worries) Put them back together, installed them with the drums, profusely bled them. Still no movement at all. What else can i do?
Drum Brakes not moving, rebuilt cylinders, still not moving (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter yomumsbum
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- drum brakes fj45
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Mike Shull
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Have you replaced them with new wheel cylinders? You could put a pressure gauge on your line to your cylinder.
- Thread starter
- #3
nah i just pulled the old ones off and refurbished them they honestly looked very good
Have you checked the master cylinder - it could allow bypass for the rear system while the front system works fine. The rubber flex line to the rear axle could be failing inside and acting as check valve when pressure is on. Did you use real "red rubber grease" to lube the seals/pistons when you put the wheel cylinders back together?
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- #5
i did replace that flexi hose. And no mate i used brake fluid as lube
When you loosen the brake line at the rear hub while a helper is applying pressure to the brake pedal do you get a good squirt of fluid ? If fluid is traveling to the rear and lines are new (able to hold pressure) but the cylinder won’t move then the problem is in the cylinders. Is the brake hardware inside the drums clean and operable? If so the problem is in the cylinder. There is a good deal of pressure at the cylinder when brakes are applied so if your brake hardware is your issue you should still see slight movement in the cylinder even when fully assembled with the brake assembly.
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- #7
I havent tried with a helper but i have checked all the lines for leaks, like i said good pressure from the bleeder valve. I pulled both wheel cylinders apart cleaned them like new.
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- #9
it has no trouble getting fluid to the back, are you saying it hasnt got enough pressure?
If it were me and I was rebuilding the cylinders I would also change the master out. Cheap insurance and it is an easy thing to do.
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- #11
the master is new from the previous owner im leaning towards the booster now but the ones to suite a dual reservoir are very hard to find
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- #12
when i got the car the master reservoirs looked brand new they hadnt seen a drop of fluid yet. I have bled the master mutiple times
if the front brakes are working and the master is moving fluid to the rear, my guess is the problem is in the rebuilt wheel cylinders not the booster
Are the wheel cylinders located in the correct positions? Left hand threaded adjusters on right side, right hand threaded adjusters on left side?
I was saying that by clamping the front off you isolate the rear, the pedal should go firm almost instantly, if you say pedal is going down and rear cyl are not moving then mc is bad, with front clamped off it should have good pedal right away, if it has a solid pedal and still no movement at wheel cyl then the pistons in wheel cyl are not moving, is this a boosted mc ?
Even without a booster I believe you should get piston movement at the rear.
With that said, smart money is to replace the whole brake system with new. It will hurt the back pocket but you will have great brakes. Drum work really well when they are done right.
With that said, smart money is to replace the whole brake system with new. It will hurt the back pocket but you will have great brakes. Drum work really well when they are done right.
agree ist not likely the booster. with a bad booster you’ll still see movement at the brake hardware it’s just firmer. i second the mc. if you feel like the cylinders were moving smoothly when you cleaned the up movement of the fluid should move them. my guess is that there not enough pressure to move them because of a bad mc. with the bleeders open you’re not creating pressure so the mc can still push fluid out. again just a guess but it’s not the booster
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- #18
yeah they are in the correct orientation
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- #19
the master has 2 reservoirs so the rear is already isolated
I doubt all 4 rear cylinders would be seized if you went through them. If you have adequate pressure at least one or two would move. I think you still have some air in the rear line somewhere. You can "bench bleed" the master in place by make some short sections of line that go from the outlets and loop back up into their respective reservoirs. If MC checks out, start bleeding with the cylinder furthest away from MC and work forward. It can take a couple bottles of fluid sometimes to get all the air out.
