What is this part with the small rubber hose coming out of it? should this delete as well?
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I believe that's for the AC high idle.
Gotcha. And it just gets pulled off along with the ACSD? any special treatment here?
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If I delete, Show should I handle blocking off the small rubber hose? Should I just delete it all and leave it open on the other end or block off?
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- 11,059
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- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Follow it the the vac valve on the inner fender. Loop the two coming out of that together.
Cheers
Cheers
Thank you for the help!
Tried to do the ASCD delete today to no avail. How did you guys remove the 12mm nut holding the spring on the end of the ASCD? When I tried to loosen I was just turning the spring mechanism. I think I need to remove this to get to the ASCD bolts b/c I can’t figure out how to get a hex wrench in there otherwise.
Ended up figuring it out yesterday and completing the job (other than I need to source the correct o-ring).
This 5mm wrench I found in my limited tool box was immensely helpful. Both the short end and the rounded long end:
Also this page in the manual helped too (other than the fact that it makes it look like there is any room for your hands
):
I ordered o-ring part number 22193-64750 based on a comment in another thread, but that doesn't seem to be right (or they packaged the wrong o-ring in the bag). This one is ~half the size it needs to be:
For the coolant line, I ended up moving the hose clamps up the line, cutting the lines with a razor just above the 90 degree bend, using a straight hose connector to join them, and then reusing the existing clamps (which I'll probably replace soon). I think it helped to cut the top coolant hose first and setting the connector, b/c the bottom was really the spewing one. Here's a pic for the noobs, since I had trouble finding one:
Overall a PITA job, but feels good to have it done. Thankfully no stripped bolts, but I can't say if that's b/c I used PB Blaster or just luck.
Thanks! I ended up just picking one up from the Toyota dealership (part # 22193-17840). Probably overpaid by 3x, but still cheaper than getting it shipped.
euclid
SILVER Star
Thanks @jpsfj60 and other contributors to this thread. I successfully deleted mine ASCD last week.
Thought I'd add a few tips since I've been on a 10+ year break from from giving back.
I took both of the funky little brackets off of the springs in order to get my socket base 5 MM wrench on the upper Allen head bolt.
I struggled for quite a while to get the front of the two hoses re-installed. After removing the oil filter I was still unable to reach the front one in a way that I had enough hand strength to get the 3/8 hose installed. The solution I came up with worked pretty well. Not sure if the pics below will communicate it, so here's a narrative.
I zip tied a shorty screw driver to the end of the hose which already had the spring clip installed. Using a long pry bar I was able to push against the screw driver enough to get the hose onto the fitting without pushing against the fitting in a way to stress it, a concern of mine. After it was on, I used some long needle nose snips to clip the zip ties and then some vice grips to move the spring clip into place.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
This thread and others like it have been super helpful in visualizing the ACSD and how to remove it. The FSM picture included above does indeed give you the misconception of plenty of room, but of course a few lines above the pic, they casually mention how your IP is already clamped in an SST on your workbench. LOL.
I have a question about the ACSD that I haven't seen answered here. I'm wondering if there are "symptoms" of a failing ACSD that show themselves in terms of running issues? I have white smoke and rough running during warm up under load, even as the temp gauge starts to move. (Yes I've read the dozens of smoke threads. Lots of great reading too!) I don't have any leakage, and I don't have any rattles at the IP. I'm just wondering - if there is a problem with the wax device, or even with where it interfaces with the pump, can it show itself in terms of how it runs, or is it simply non-functional, just the same as if you'd removed it? I live in a cold climate, and would be hesitant to remove the ACSD, since I need all the help I can get, unless of course its contributing to my issues rather than helping...
(for reference: 91 HZJ77, stock, new injectors, new glowplugs, 240k kms)
I have a question about the ACSD that I haven't seen answered here. I'm wondering if there are "symptoms" of a failing ACSD that show themselves in terms of running issues? I have white smoke and rough running during warm up under load, even as the temp gauge starts to move. (Yes I've read the dozens of smoke threads. Lots of great reading too!) I don't have any leakage, and I don't have any rattles at the IP. I'm just wondering - if there is a problem with the wax device, or even with where it interfaces with the pump, can it show itself in terms of how it runs, or is it simply non-functional, just the same as if you'd removed it? I live in a cold climate, and would be hesitant to remove the ACSD, since I need all the help I can get, unless of course its contributing to my issues rather than helping...
(for reference: 91 HZJ77, stock, new injectors, new glowplugs, 240k kms)
I am aware of how old this thread is. However I am curious as what the ACSD does and why deleting it is a thing. I'm new to owning a diesel and mine doesn't work, the wax thing doesn't push so I've just locked it forward.
People delete them because they are a pump destroyer when they fail, which most eventually do. Plus in the environment most people are using there vehicles it's not really needed. All the ACSD does is advance the timing when your coolant temp is below normal operating temp. Once the coolant is up to temp the ACSD has no effect on the pump. Increasing the injection timing aids in easier starting which can be an issue in very very cold temperatures but most don't have any issues without one during winter. Those that do usually just bump up there static timing a touch and have zero starting issues and consequently improved driving performance because of it.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
I did exactly that. Advanced the timing past factory spec, and my cold starting issues went away. I may drop it back a touch when warmer weather comes, but that's a ways off. LOL.
