ACSD Delete Question (1 Viewer)

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Can't seem to even see where my thero wax is. ANY pics of what I am looking for to delete would be
great!!!!! I have searched and have not found the info that I want to make this delete happen..
Where is everyone getting the delete kits for this problem.. IS Radd Cruisers still selling this
kit?? Want to get this done so I don't run into a IP problem. THIS ACSD sounds like it sould be
the 2nd thing we do after BEB's and rod bolts...
 

IanB

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Here's a pic that shows a deleted ACSD on the pump, you can see the block-off plate with the screws still loose in the lower left of the pump.

IMG_2341.jpg
 

IanB

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There's a good pic of the ACSD in place, part of what is included in Rad Cruisers' delete kit is some metal dowels, they are to space out the throttle wheel bracket from the pump body and take up the space where the ACSD was, but he doesn't include instructions, so this isn't obvious, and worth mentioning if you're buying from afar and aren't in contact with him for support. His delete kit is worth the $$ IMO, it's got everything you need, although an extra inch of hose would have been nice.
 
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Ian Thank you again. I got it now. Will order my delete kit today. Now just need to look up
Radd Cruisers and get their digits.. OFF with this ACSD!!!
 
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Just called my local Diesel shop. They had the o-ring in stock. They ordered the plate and will be here Friday.
The part numbers are: Plate - 1461074312
O-ring - 2460223001
Now what other parts will I need to complete this ACSD delete? Will I need longer bolts for the plate to go on?
Will I need to advance my IP after this is done? IF I do have to advance IP is that a pain in the ass to do?
 
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@jpsfj60, what did Radd Cruisers say in terms of your questions from post #8 above? Especially in terms of the Injection Pump (IP)...I keep seeing conflicting suggestions of you have to adjust the IP vs. you don't need to worry about it.

I will be doing this ACSD delete as well and already have the backing plate and o-ring in hand, as well as a 16 inch long section of coolant hose, with clamps, to 'close the loop', so to speak, on the coolant bypass line (instead of buying a union and joining the two ends of the existing coolant bypass hose that connected to the ACSD...I did not want to be reusing the 25+ year old stuff on our 1991 HDJ81).

Please post up your install (or removal I should say)...this will be very helpful!
 
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HillCountryTX, Talking to Radd Cruisers ( Dwight) was just what I needed to take care of this
ACSD problem and servicing my transmission. He didn't have any of the delete kits in stock so told me what to do since I was getting the block off plate and O-ring from my local diesel shop. SO cool that he gave me that info instead of worring about selling me something. WILL be buying all my engine service parts from them in the near future. SO You don't need the 3/8 barb fitting to join the coolant lines together. Just close the loop
like you where going to do. You will need smaller bolts for the block off plate. I asked if I could cut mine and re tap the ends and he
said it depends on the bolts that I have that holds this ACSD on. Make sure you wd-40 the s*** out of those hex head bolts.
There is no NEED to advance the IP on these motors. The ACSD only makes the idle higher for the cold start of these motors. You will
need to pump fuel back into the IP to get rid of the air since you will loose some fuel when removing this ACSD. He said that he thinks the
bolt size is 6mm x 1.0 but wasn't positive. Told me to take on bolt out and check and then go get smaller length bolts for the back off
plate assembly.
What size coolant hose did you end up getting to do this delete?

I will tracing the block off plate for my buddy and anyone else that needs one for this problem.. Just PM me and I will cut you one out and
if you need a O-Ring I can get you that too. I hate stupid engineering things that don't make sense and just a problem for people that enjoy
these Toyota Diesel's. Toyota didn't need to put this on out IP's!! That is why other IP's don't have the thermo wax bull s*** on them!!
Will post pics as I am planing on do this delete this Sat before I have to travel for Easter dinner. Hopefully my block off plate is in and its
the right size...
 
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Would like to see a Picture of this done on a automatic and not a manual transmission. The
pic above with this done is a manual transmission right?? Thanks J
 

IanB

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The picture @Tapage posted is an auto as it has a TPS on the pump. There's really no difference as far as the ACSD delete is concerned.
 
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The picture @Tapage posted is an auto as it has a TPS on the pump. There's really no difference as far as the ACSD delete is concerned.

I can see that. I am asking for a pic of a auto with the block off plate on it.. The photo above with the plate on it is
a manual transmission correct??
 
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@jpsfj60 thank you for the helpful info! I really appreciate it. Like I mentioned, I have NOT done this ACSD delete, but am planning on it and eagerly awaiting your how-to for some guidance.

In regards to your question, I purchased 16 inches of 3/8 inch (Inner Diameter) coolant hose to "close the bypass loop". I'm guessing the magical length might be closer to 14 inches however, as I did a 'hold-in-place eye-ball' test fit and it seems like 16 inches will be just a tad too long. Also, keep in mind that coolant will come out if you do not plug the coolant passage way once you remove the existing coolant bypass hose...so keep that in mind to minimize the amount of coolant loss.

The other thing that I've read (can't remember the specific thread) is that you can theoretically switch the hex key bolts from the AC idle-up attachment (directly above the ACSD), which are supposedly shorter, and use them on the blanking plate, and then use the original hex key bolts holding the ACSD on back on the AC idle-up part (you're just switching bolts here). However, I'd hate to be wrong and be stuck without the correct length hex bolt here. So if you figure out what the hex key bolt size is for the backing plate attachment, let me know...I don't want to chance it.

And yes, PB blaster is your friend here. I sprayed mine a month or so ago, and will do it again in preparation for this removal as I do NOT want to strip the head of the hex key bolts.

FYI, I have a manual HDJ81.
 
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I looped mine with a brass fitting in the middle, thinking I might use it at a future date for something like a hot water exchanger. But using KISS and a simple loop is good! Was just chatting with someone about this and they think they might plumb in a coolant filter. That would be a great use and I think someone on this site might have already and posted pics.

hth's
gb
 
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I like this coolant filter idea that you did. Can you post a pic of your coolant filter for me?
Also part number of the filter you used. Going to put this on my 81 while doing this delete.
 

mudgudgeon

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Thanks for the info @Rock40 .

Link to relevant page for coolant filter info
Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap

I'll be doing this on mine. I know I have sediment in my cooling system after I mixed incompatible coolant types. I changed out blocked radiator and heater core and did a flush, but a filter is a great idea

A coolant filter is exactly what I plumbed into the ACSD ports during my diesel swap and it's amazing what the filter is cleaning out of the coolant system. I change it every 6k. For those interested, the coolant filter information can be found on this swap thread: Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
 

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