ACSD Delete Question (4 Viewers)

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Prevented by the timing device spring in the very lower part of pump body. It is connected via the black piece/pin thingy as you can see on my picture. With ascd removed it will jump to the most retarded setting.
 
Just finished this. Those hex head bolts are awful. One had a stripped head and had to be backed out with a hammer and cold chisel and even that took effort. Also the ip body must be aluminum. Stripped one of the bolt holes for the plate like it was butter. Luckily I had a slightly longer one from the acsd and the rest of the threads are holding. That was a moment of terror. Thanks everyone for the tips. Time for a beer!
 
@dan1554...thanks for sharing your close call. Did you remove the spring from the ACSD first before going at the hex head bolts (5mm), or were you removing the hex head bolts with the ACSD completely attached and assembled (i.e. with the spring in place)? I still need to do this and I want to make sure I'm not left with an expensive mess :) I'm thinking I'll spray it multiple times with PB Blaster over several days and then go at it.

Also, how much diesel came out when you removed the ACSD? Did you lose much coolant when you did the ACSD removal?
 
I was loosing cooland non stop .. so you need to figure something ( plan ahead ) for the moment you have the lines disconnected ..

amount of diesel it's respetable .. but hard to catch at floor .. I got pan directly under it and diesel was all over my floor and front axle .. ( block, frame etc etc etc )
 
@HillCountryTX I definitely removed the spring before unbolting the assembly from the pump. Its almost required to get the bottom bolt off of the acsd (which I did from the top, not the wheel well). I PB'd it over two days but it was still very difficult to get the bolts out. I bought some long socket style metric hex bits so I could use a ratchet. It was amazing how little torque the IP threads could take given how hard it was to take the bolts out.

I didn't even bother to catch the diesel, but had cat litter on hand to keep it from going everywhere.
 
That kit looks like it just has caps for the coolant lines instead of looping it. Any harm in doing this instead of looping it? I imagine if the coolant was just going through the ACSD, capping the inlet and outlet on the block wouldn't make any difference?
 
That kit looks like it just has caps for the coolant lines instead of looping it. Any harm in doing this instead of looping it? I imagine if the coolant was just going through the ACSD, capping the inlet and outlet on the block wouldn't make any difference?

Should be fine.
 
How are people ordering the ACSD delete kit from Radd? I have made the decision to remove it if my replacement pump has it.
 
@FJ73Texas , if it helps, I ordered the blanking plate and o-ring from a local diesel parts place here in Texas (M&D Distributors)...it was about $25 I believe for those two parts. However, I think the Radd ACSD Delete kit comes with more parts, and instructions :) Plus, I believe Radd Cruisers is pretty helpful based on other comments of folks that have bought the kit from them. I have not used Radd Cruisers for anything, so I can't speak personally about them.
 
Thanks @HillCountryTX.

They were the folks that had my IP then told me it couldn't be repaired due to parts unavailability. :bang: Lets hope they have these two parts at least when I go ask.
 
Yikes, sorry to hear that. They've been pretty good to work with (M&D Distributors)...did you get to talk to someone specific? I believe they are Bosch parts (the blanking plate and o-ring....at least mine were), but it fit just fine because the Denso IP is supposedly just a licensed Bosch pump. So it surprises me that they had trouble with that IP pump!!

FYI, the rebuilt pump from Cruiser Addiction has been great! No leaks and much more smooth and quiet. No ACSD either (they had removed it before I even ordered it).
 
Yeah, it surprised me too.

Actually I do think they really tried to get the parts and thought they had success only for Denso to tell them no later after the parts order was made. I dealt with Charlie directly.
 
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Just finished this. Those hex head bolts are awful. One had a stripped head and had to be backed out with a hammer and cold chisel and even that took effort. Also the ip body must be aluminum. Stripped one of the bolt holes for the plate like it was butter. Luckily I had a slightly longer one from the acsd and the rest of the threads are holding. That was a moment of terror. Thanks everyone for the tips. Time for a beer!

I was not so lucky as you. I had to cold chisel the top bolt out even after spraying it with every known loosening chemical. Finally got it out and then... snapped the head off the upper bolt when putting the blanking plate on! I was tightening it by hand and it just crumbled about 3/4 the way in. So now the blanking plate is currently being held on by just the lower bolt and I have a broken bolt that I somehow need to extract in a very tight space. If anyone has a genius idea I am all ears. Only thing I know to try now is center punch it and see if a right angle drill will fit to try and back it out. Either that or pull the whole damn pump. Such an easy job turned into a disaster:doh:
 
I was not so lucky as you. I had to cold chisel the top bolt out even after spraying it with every known loosening chemical. Finally got it out and then... snapped the head off the upper bolt when putting the blanking plate on! I was tightening it by hand and it just crumbled about 3/4 the way in. So now the blanking plate is currently being held on by just the lower bolt and I have a broken bolt that I somehow need to extract in a very tight space. If anyone has a genius idea I am all ears. Only thing I know to try now is center punch it and see if a right angle drill will fit to try and back it out. Either that or pull the whole damn pump. Such an easy job turned into a disaster:doh:

Nothing sticking out of the hole on the broken bolt? Maybe a Tiny flathead screwdriver could grab an edge and you could spin it out enough to grab it, being as it's only hand tight? That's brutal...
 
I was not so lucky as you. I had to cold chisel the top bolt out even after spraying it with every known loosening chemical. Finally got it out and then... snapped the head off the upper bolt when putting the blanking plate on! I was tightening it by hand and it just crumbled about 3/4 the way in. So now the blanking plate is currently being held on by just the lower bolt and I have a broken bolt that I somehow need to extract in a very tight space. If anyone has a genius idea I am all ears. Only thing I know to try now is center punch it and see if a right angle drill will fit to try and back it out. Either that or pull the whole damn pump. Such an easy job turned into a disaster:doh:

the center punch it's a must .. or weld another bold / nut in there ..
 
I was not so lucky as you. I had to cold chisel the top bolt out even after spraying it with every known loosening chemical. Finally got it out and then... snapped the head off the upper bolt when putting the blanking plate on! I was tightening it by hand and it just crumbled about 3/4 the way in. So now the blanking plate is currently being held on by just the lower bolt and I have a broken bolt that I somehow need to extract in a very tight space. If anyone has a genius idea I am all ears. Only thing I know to try now is center punch it and see if a right angle drill will fit to try and back it out. Either that or pull the whole damn pump. Such an easy job turned into a disaster:doh:


Yikes, sell the truck for parts.
 
Is everything I read herewith also pertain to the 1987 lj70 2.4lt? My ACSD started leaking and getting even the simplest parts or professional service here in northern Italy (fvg) is a real pain.
 
My ACSD started leaking

Its most likely the o-ring, a cheap and easy part to get hold of. I think this is the part you need, 90099-14051. You can put the number into google and will normally give you a list of online suppliers but I would be surprised if it couldnt be sourced from a dealer.
You will need it if you delete the ACSD as well.
I haven't heard of the ACSD being a problem on a 2LT.
 
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Its most likely the o-ring, a cheap and easy part to get hold of. I think this the part you need 90099-14051. You can put the number into google and will normally give you a list of online suppliers but I would be surprised if it couldnt be sourced from a dealer.
You will need it if you delete the ACSD as well.
I haven't heard of the ACSD being a problem on a 2LT.

Thanks for the info. Today I am replacing the o-ring only and see how it goes. Of course I will look at the ACSD with scrutiny. Thanks
 

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