ABS Delete 50mph-0mph test before and after (with video) (1 Viewer)

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After reading a couple post on ABS delete on the 80 series I decided to give it a go. Before taking the ABS unit out I did run a test to see if deleting the ABS did actually make a significant difference. Before I tested the brakes with the ABS system I used the Motive power bleeder and bled the brake system. I ordered the power bleeder from Amazon for $58. I also liked the clear bleeder bottle with magnet.

Motive Products 101 Power Bleeder
Genesis Magnet Bleeder Bottle

My 80 series brake system is basically stock but many other parts are not. I’m running the Slee 4 inch lift and also installed the stainless steel brake lines. I’m rolling on 35’s. I typically carry quite a few tools in my heavy drawer system and have the 14 gallon factory subtank installed, heavy bumpers, winch etc…. Basically, It’s a big heavy Land cruiser and the brakes, with abs, are not great if you need to stop in a hurry.

I ran my 1997 80 series up to 50mph and pushed the brake pedal as hard as I could. It seemed like it took forever to stop. I got out and measured the distance and it took 95 feet to stop. I ran it a couple more times (feeling I could do better) and came up with the same result. Thinking that the brakes could fade a bit after repeated use I came back on a different day and stomped on the brakes, but still had the same result. The best stop I pulled off was 95ft.

I took a look at ABS delete posts by jcordona1 and Jeepinpete and began taking things apart. It was a very straightforward process thanks to the previous posts. From start to finish it took about three hours. Thirty minutes of that time was spent getting the LSPV valve removed. The gas tank hinders access to the bolts a little bit.

Once the ABS delete was complete I used the power bleeder and got all the bubbles out of the system. The power bleeder is a great tool. It’s so nice to bleed the brakes so quickly.

Once everything was done I went up to the same location and slammed on the brakes. I had my daughter stand in a different spot to catch the stop a little better. I also put a blue bucket on the curb to note the 95ft mark foot from the previous test.

With the ABS system removed I was able to get stopped in 61 feet.

As soon as I drove after removing the ABS I noticed a big difference in the brakes. I’m very happy with this modification and also glad others posted great write ups and pictures to make the process easier.

Video Link
 
Great write up, would have liked to see if any difference in just removing the lspv. Amazing such a big improvement after removing everything. Are you able to lock up the tires now?
 
Great write up, would have liked to see if any difference in just removing the lspv. Amazing such a big improvement after removing everything. Are you able to lock up the tires now?
I'm sure I could lock up all four. The pedal has a really nice feel. The braking power is more evenly distributed. You can feel the rear brakes kicking in more. I considered using a proportioning valve, but they feel just right without one.
 
ABS removed and no prop valve here.. I like how it acts on pavement but it's VERY easy to lock the rears on gravel in my case, even when loaded. Just a heads up
 
Interesting results. I can't help but think there's got to be a way to keep the abs and have a respectable stopping distance, a pedal that feels solid and responsive. Thanks for the video!
 
Interesting results. I can't help but think there's got to be a way to keep the abs and have a respectable stopping distance, a pedal that feels solid and responsive. Thanks for the video!
It's called maintenance. Stopping distance deteriorates over time and does so slowly so the owner doesn't notice. Insert the "frog in water" anecdote here.
I spent a good amount of time going through each corner. New OEM rotors, new OEM pads, new OEM soft brake lines. Each caliper was removed and rebuilt using the OEM rebuild kits. Bled the system with a Snapple bottle and clear tubing like I have done for years.
It's also important to activate the ABS several times by trying to lock up the wheels on a soft surface. This will cycle the old fluid out of the ABS actuator. Bleed the system a second time after that.
She stops now. Rolling 35s with a 4" lift and heavily armored.
 
impressive, tempted to do this but my brakes are working now, if I were to ever have issues with the abs unit most likely I will delete it all rather than spend the money to try and fix / replace it.
I never really thought my brakes were bad until one day when the lady in the G wagon Mercedes stomped on the brakes in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and had enough time to think about how much damage my front bumper was going to do to her back end. Fortunately, She pulled away just in time to avoid contact. I think my abs was working well. I made sure to bleed it out well and test it one more time before I tore it apart. I was surprised it took so long get it down to zero from fifty mph.
 
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It's called maintenance. Stopping distance deteriorates over time and does so slowly so the owner doesn't notice. Insert the "frog in water" anecdote here.
I spent a good amount of time going through each corner. New OEM rotors, new OEM pads, new OEM soft brake lines. Each caliper was removed and rebuilt using the OEM rebuild kits. Bled the system with a Snapple bottle and clear tubing like I have done for years.
It's also important to activate the ABS several times by trying to lock up the wheels on a soft surface. This will cycle the old fluid out of the ABS actuator. Bleed the system a second time after that.
She stops now. Rolling 35s with a 4" lift and heavily armored.
It sounds like your ABS brake system is working at the highest level possible. Mine was not maintained as well as yours. It would be great to have some results of a 50 to 0 test on an 80 series that is similar in size and very well maintained.
 
am I correct in thinking that IF your OEM system with the ABS is working properly the ABS clicking during fast braking should be activated? Did yours do this during your test?
I've never heard any clicking, but I could definitely feel the ABS holding the tires back from lock up. The pedal was firm but not to the floor. It felt like they were holding back too much.
 
I wonder what your results would be if you had just removed the ABS fuse ?
I have two buddies with 80's that drove mine around the block. They both are ready to pull the ABS on their 80's. I'll try pulling the fuse or unplugging the system and run a test to see if that has the same result.
 
I can hear the tires chirping and feel the abs kicking on if I stand on my brakes on pavement.
 
I have two buddies with 80's that drove mine around the block. They both are ready to pull the ABS on their 80's. I'll try pulling the fuse or unplugging the system and run a test to see if that has the same result.
Just pull the fuse. I keep meaning to look into my wonky ABS issues. I pulled the fuse sometime ago and never re-visited. Never has bothered me.
 
I would have to agree the abs and lsvp redundant system has a difficult maintenance process that is the root of the issue. I deleted my lsvp. And close friend just cut the lsvp lever and tied it up and made about the same huge difference, as my delete. If your braking test didn't fell abs your comparison is only of a hard to maintain system vs easier old school. If you can't lock up the tires on dry pavement without the abs then you still have some work to do to maximize your brakes. I've open disputed this in the past. I'm not going to ramdamly delete the abs but if it had true system issues and failures I would delete it knowing that I would not be comfortable loaning or letting my wife drive it after degrading to 1960's technology
 
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In my skid course I was taught (and actually experienced) that the biggest advantage of ABS is (a) braking on wet surfaces, and (b) to be able to slam the brakes and steer at the same time. If the tires lock up without ABS and you slide towards that big immovable object, you need to decide what is better: stop braking and start steering, or keep on sliding. With ABS, you might just steer around it while slamming the brakes.
 
In my skid course I was taught (and actually experienced) that the biggest advantage of ABS is (a) braking on wet surfaces, and (b) to be able to slam the brakes and steer at the same time. If the tires lock up without ABS and you slide towards that big immovable object, you need to decide what is better: stop braking and start steering, or keep on sliding. With ABS, you might just steer around it while slamming the brakes.

They should have taught you on said skid pad how to modulate the brake pedal to keep the wheels from locking up. abs is horrid for racing.

As for my opinion on abs im a take it or leave it..However I'd prefer to not have it, and it makes for less skilled drivers on the road because of the automation. Ive almost gottne myself into trouble a few times soley because of abs.

ABS is the equivalent of 'Pull n Pray'
 
It would be nice to see some results of others' rigs stopping with 35" tires and abs. I believe that with the old technogy, the wear on the system from age, and the added leverage imposed on the rotor from the larger tire diameter cause the system to be outside of its intended use. I do agree that slippery surfaces are where abs shines, but I think good driving ability overcomes this. So many engineering decisions for a production vehicle are based on potentially bad drivers, that the driving enthusiast suffers (like in this case).
 

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