ABC'S of 80's Cooling Part IV - Hood Vents
- Thread starter SUMOTOY
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wow, I've just spent the last half hour reading through the posts, definately lots of ideas floating around here.
I've been thinking abou this mod for the last year or so now, especially since all of the underbonnet additions I have, would have to affect air flow through the engine bay of my vehicle. One thing I notice through all of the posts is no one has mentioned fuel pump temperatures (which I quess is covered by under bonnet temp, as mentioned by ST, sorry for the abreviation!). After a long drive, especially low range, I always notice the extreme temp under the bonnet when I went to hook up the old compressor to re-inflate the tyres. I'm talking really hot, uncomfortable enough to leave me wanting to not have my hands in the engine bay, in that area. This high temperature must also affect all of the components in the engine bay (ie hoses, belts, compressor, water/air intercooler and batteries etc...).
Thanks for posting up some results (that provide a measurable improvement for you), It makes me want to take the next step, and find some vents that will allow exit of hot engine bay temps, and not allow water entry to the engine bay in deep water crossings. As I have said before, other peoples experiences allow us to take steps to modify our cruisers for our own needs, sometimes they don't follow others needs, but it is always an interseting read.
Kind regards,
Ross.
I've been thinking abou this mod for the last year or so now, especially since all of the underbonnet additions I have, would have to affect air flow through the engine bay of my vehicle. One thing I notice through all of the posts is no one has mentioned fuel pump temperatures (which I quess is covered by under bonnet temp, as mentioned by ST, sorry for the abreviation!). After a long drive, especially low range, I always notice the extreme temp under the bonnet when I went to hook up the old compressor to re-inflate the tyres. I'm talking really hot, uncomfortable enough to leave me wanting to not have my hands in the engine bay, in that area. This high temperature must also affect all of the components in the engine bay (ie hoses, belts, compressor, water/air intercooler and batteries etc...).
Thanks for posting up some results (that provide a measurable improvement for you), It makes me want to take the next step, and find some vents that will allow exit of hot engine bay temps, and not allow water entry to the engine bay in deep water crossings. As I have said before, other peoples experiences allow us to take steps to modify our cruisers for our own needs, sometimes they don't follow others needs, but it is always an interseting read.
Kind regards,
Ross.
Scotty. Perhaps you should consult and oil temperature gauge in order to determine what is really going on with oil temp. You cant guess based on coolant temperature.
Citadel ,what vents did you use? MIke
Very nice vents indeed
Z-34 hood vent is what he has in his signature
Did the install require any cutting of the hood braces?
He's got a thread on it, and so do I with two of the same vents.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/278155-pardon-me-while-i-vent-my-hood.html
Yes, you have to cut into the bracing, no it does not adversely affect the hood.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/278155-pardon-me-while-i-vent-my-hood.html
Yes, you have to cut into the bracing, no it does not adversely affect the hood.
Until the vehicle is involved in a front-end collision and the hood collapses in a manner other than it was designed to do. Hopefully the hood does not come back through the windshield.
That being said a hood with chopped braces would probably fold sooner than an un-cut hood. It is not a good idea to add bracing to a hood because it will be more likely to get shoved into the passenger compartment instead of folding up.
As usual, you are correct Dan.
I should have said, "...it is my opinion based on my personal experience (https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...saving-my-wifes-life-i-need-new-one-asap.html), what I did to my hood will not adversely affect the safety of myself or passengers in my vehicle in the event of a front end collision."
I did plan on adding bracing, but had the same thought process as you and skipped it. For daily operation and driving conditions that I have experienced thus far, the work has in no discernable way compromised the integrity of my hood.
For legal reasons, I do not recommend anyone put any holes in their vehicles for any purpose other than that intended by the manufacturer.
murf
Lifer
All I can say is that I am glad there are so many of you that are adventurous and willing to spend the time to share with the group. A couple of years ago, I supercharged my truck and was very unsetled with the "verge of overheating/warm A/C" during the brutal Phoenix summers (keeps the population from totally exploding here). Then I sat down and had the luxury of using search function and taking away what would work best for me. I installed the JDM fan, blue fan clutch, hood vents, and the usual all new hoses, coolant t-stat. The fan blows it in and the vents let it out. I havent applied any other of the many good ideas and only primarily these three. I think one of the hottest cities in the nation is a fair testing ground and I couldnt be happier with the results. No, I havent done extensive testing of before and after data but I can say is that the difference is night and day.
Now I am off to fix my shaky side view mirror with some Aquamend and make a new bracket (another Mud solution).
Cheers to all who have laid the groundwork while the many benefit.
Now I am off to fix my shaky side view mirror with some Aquamend and make a new bracket (another Mud solution).
Cheers to all who have laid the groundwork while the many benefit.
I too appreciate everybody's contributions to this forum. I wouldn't have the cajones to do even half of the mods I have done if it weren't for the contributions of all the smart guys on MUD.*
*Rumor has it that I will be getting a package in the mail soon. Time to break out the jigsaw and hop on the wagon.
*Rumor has it that I will be getting a package in the mail soon. Time to break out the jigsaw and hop on the wagon.
So this is a massive grave dig, but I wanted to say just how informative this thread has been. All the arguments for and against have mostly been angled at a means of either understanding the results or trying to figure out how the results could be further improved. Without debate, we restrict what we might otherwise not ever know or at least be aware of.
In my case, and the reason I stumbled onto this thread is because I'm about to do a trans swap from manual to auto. One of the first things I did was to remove the centre console and the rubber boot that fixes directly to the trans tunnel to seal out dust and, as I quickly found out, a huge amount of heat.
Not long after removing the boot to expose the gearbox below, I needed to drive the vehicle briefly. In less than 10min, the amount and temperature of the heat being pumped into the cab was quite uncomfortable. After 15min, the gearstick shaft and chrome fittings on the gear knob were too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. Now I'm convinced this isn't just radiated heat being blown up from the gearbox, but from the vast amount of radiating heat from the engine, cooling system and exhaust - all trapped under the hood with its only form of escape being down the fire wall and along under the floorpan - just what my bare feet need when driving long distances.
It quickly became apparent to me that there must be a way to remove this heat more effectively and efficiently. It was then I considered bonnet venting after recalling seeing it mentioned here before but not giving it any real credit. For that assumption, I sincerely apologise.
As others have mentioned previously, and despite the fact I have no measured data to submit, I have always been aware just how hot under the bonnet can get, and just how long the bonnet can stay hot for long after the vehicle has not been driven. And until just recently, I figured since other 80s I know did the same thing, it was normal.
Prior to this, one thing I had noted was the huge temperature difference between the heat soaked engine bay and the W2AIC that sits directly on top of the engine. Even 1hr after not driving, this is still cool to the touch while the rest of the engine is still baking in its own heat soak. While I'm aware the turbo definitely contributes to radiated heat soak, by the same token, I can drive my car with considerable aggression and without a fan shroud and still have engine temps remain withing 1-2degC of my mates NA 1FZFE with identical tyres and left etc. We both have identical temp gauges fitted in identical positions.
So, from here, with the soon to be added twin trans coolers mounted in front of the rad, along with the OEM condensor and W2AIC heat exchanger that are already there, it's bound to get even hotter under my hood. As it sits now, the W2AIC heat exchanger has 2, 12in thermo fans that turn on once IAT reaches 40degC as read by the MAP sensor fitted to the inlet manifold (the intercooler water pump also activates at the same time via the same switching method). To this end, I will most likely fit the trans coolers in front of the condensor and the retain the W2AIC heat exchanger at the front with both fans mounted.
Despite this, based on my own experiences recently and what I have read here and in other hood venting threads, I would be doing my engine and cooling system a huge favor by simply installing some well designed hood vents in the right locations - if nothing else, I expect it will have a positive influence in reducing under hood heat soak, which in turn should reduce the added stress of the otherwise standard cooling system. That's not to say a bigger radiator might also be on the cards in the near future....
I will be sure to post my experiences and seat of the pants results. Again, thank you for the great info herein - just another reason I like this place.
In my case, and the reason I stumbled onto this thread is because I'm about to do a trans swap from manual to auto. One of the first things I did was to remove the centre console and the rubber boot that fixes directly to the trans tunnel to seal out dust and, as I quickly found out, a huge amount of heat.
Not long after removing the boot to expose the gearbox below, I needed to drive the vehicle briefly. In less than 10min, the amount and temperature of the heat being pumped into the cab was quite uncomfortable. After 15min, the gearstick shaft and chrome fittings on the gear knob were too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. Now I'm convinced this isn't just radiated heat being blown up from the gearbox, but from the vast amount of radiating heat from the engine, cooling system and exhaust - all trapped under the hood with its only form of escape being down the fire wall and along under the floorpan - just what my bare feet need when driving long distances.
It quickly became apparent to me that there must be a way to remove this heat more effectively and efficiently. It was then I considered bonnet venting after recalling seeing it mentioned here before but not giving it any real credit. For that assumption, I sincerely apologise.
As others have mentioned previously, and despite the fact I have no measured data to submit, I have always been aware just how hot under the bonnet can get, and just how long the bonnet can stay hot for long after the vehicle has not been driven. And until just recently, I figured since other 80s I know did the same thing, it was normal.
Prior to this, one thing I had noted was the huge temperature difference between the heat soaked engine bay and the W2AIC that sits directly on top of the engine. Even 1hr after not driving, this is still cool to the touch while the rest of the engine is still baking in its own heat soak. While I'm aware the turbo definitely contributes to radiated heat soak, by the same token, I can drive my car with considerable aggression and without a fan shroud and still have engine temps remain withing 1-2degC of my mates NA 1FZFE with identical tyres and left etc. We both have identical temp gauges fitted in identical positions.
So, from here, with the soon to be added twin trans coolers mounted in front of the rad, along with the OEM condensor and W2AIC heat exchanger that are already there, it's bound to get even hotter under my hood. As it sits now, the W2AIC heat exchanger has 2, 12in thermo fans that turn on once IAT reaches 40degC as read by the MAP sensor fitted to the inlet manifold (the intercooler water pump also activates at the same time via the same switching method). To this end, I will most likely fit the trans coolers in front of the condensor and the retain the W2AIC heat exchanger at the front with both fans mounted.
Despite this, based on my own experiences recently and what I have read here and in other hood venting threads, I would be doing my engine and cooling system a huge favor by simply installing some well designed hood vents in the right locations - if nothing else, I expect it will have a positive influence in reducing under hood heat soak, which in turn should reduce the added stress of the otherwise standard cooling system. That's not to say a bigger radiator might also be on the cards in the near future....
I will be sure to post my experiences and seat of the pants results. Again, thank you for the great info herein - just another reason I like this place.
murf
Lifer
Agreed ^
The heat that quickly radiates out of my hood vents from the Supercharger is enough to see with the naked eye. I equate it to running around the room until your good and sweaty, throw a blanket over yourself and fall on the ground to trap in the heat...
Heat soak just adds to total underhood temps and in Arizona, we need all the help we can get. One thing I did determine this last weekend is that the intake temperatures vary as much as 10 degrees cooler with a snorkel vs without. I do not run one but both our 80's run Scanguages and the snorkel brings in cooler air. i would imagine this would mane more efficient performance due to the cooler intake air.
I still am not sure if I really wanted a snorkel in dry AZ but now wonder if it would be good at least for this fact.
The heat that quickly radiates out of my hood vents from the Supercharger is enough to see with the naked eye. I equate it to running around the room until your good and sweaty, throw a blanket over yourself and fall on the ground to trap in the heat...
Heat soak just adds to total underhood temps and in Arizona, we need all the help we can get. One thing I did determine this last weekend is that the intake temperatures vary as much as 10 degrees cooler with a snorkel vs without. I do not run one but both our 80's run Scanguages and the snorkel brings in cooler air. i would imagine this would mane more efficient performance due to the cooler intake air.
I still am not sure if I really wanted a snorkel in dry AZ but now wonder if it would be good at least for this fact.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
One of the reasons why I did the heat reflective wrap of the entire air filter canister. If it reduced by 10deg I would consider it a success. Anything more and it's gravy.
murf said:Agreed ^
The heat that quickly radiates out of my hood vents from the Supercharger is enough to see with the naked eye. I equate it to running around the room until your good and sweaty, throw a blanket over yourself and fall on the ground to trap in the heat...
Heat soak just adds to total underhood temps and in Arizona, we need all the help we can get. One thing I did determine this last weekend is that the intake temperatures vary as much as 10 degrees cooler with a snorkel vs without. I do not run one but both our 80's run Scanguages and the snorkel brings in cooler air. i would imagine this would mane more efficient performance due to the cooler intake air.
I still am not sure if I really wanted a snorkel in dry AZ but now wonder if it would be good at least for this fact.
That's why I put the snorkel on mine. Keeps the IA temps cooler for the SC than without. I really think that with a SC, one needs the "complete package" i.e. hood vents, blue hub fan clutch with 10,000 to 20,000 CST oil, aluminum ceramic coat the exhaust manifolds and air filter housing as well as add a snorkel to reap the most cooling benefit.
I have been running mine like this for two years and my coolant and intake temps are way lower than a SC'd 80 without those mods.
The only thing left to do is to add a top mount inter cooler.
murf
Lifer
Here's the link to a thread where I posted pics of the alum ceramic coated exhaust manifolds and intake plenums. Sorry but I don't have any pics of the air cleaner since I had it powder coated black after the ceramic coating.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/376626-my-80-series-super-charger-2.html
As for the coatings, I had them done here http://www.jetcoat.com/
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I went the same route: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/559918-ceramic-coated-my-exhaust-manifolds.html
I am really going overboard on trying to reduce the temps. Everything is new and everything coated or treated
I am really going overboard on trying to reduce the temps. Everything is new and everything coated or treated
Agreed ^
The heat that quickly radiates out of my hood vents from the Supercharger is enough to see with the naked eye. I equate it to running around the room until your good and sweaty, throw a blanket over yourself and fall on the ground to trap in the heat...
Heat soak just adds to total underhood temps and in Arizona, we need all the help we can get. One thing I did determine this last weekend is that the intake temperatures vary as much as 10 degrees cooler with a snorkel vs without. I do not run one but both our 80's run Scanguages and the snorkel brings in cooler air. i would imagine this would mane more efficient performance due to the cooler intake air.
I still am not sure if I really wanted a snorkel in dry AZ but now wonder if it would be good at least for this fact.
As a X SC'r guy I also bypassed throttle body coolant hose. Every little bit helps when it comes to keeping intake temps down. There is no reason to heat the throttle body, at least in AZ.
