Builds A pig for Father's Day (3 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

If the axle has never been serviced, or if it has been serviced according to the manual, there will be a puck screwed into the end of the birfield (or a snapring) that you can only access by removing the head of the hub.

On the topic of the snapring - a friend of mine just rebuilt their knuckles and birfs.
When he took it apart, there was a snapring.
When he went to reassemble things, the snapring would not fit.
He said he tried everything.
What is the purpose of the snapring?
Will he harm anything by running without it?

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

The end of the front axle shaft is drilled and tapped. Have him put in a bolt, pull the axle out as far as it'll go and then install the snap ring.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

On the topic of the snapring - a friend of mine just rebuilt their knuckles and birfs.
When he took it apart, there was a snapring.
When he went to reassemble things, the snapring would not fit.
He said he tried everything.
What is the purpose of the snapring?
Will he harm anything by running without it?

Not sure the possible consequences of leaving that snap ring off but you certainly can't remove the body of the locker without removing it. I assume we are talking about item 3 below? I used regular snap ring pliers to remove mine and it was a bit difficult but not impossible. I can see it being more difficult to reinstall, especially if he doesn't have the axle pulled out far enough, as mentioned by Mike.

 

[samc2447]

The other snap ring is on the axle shaft that locks the birf in place. If he disassembled the birfs, that snap ring needs to go on the axle to hold the birf on.

 

[PabloCruise]

I prefer all 3 Lubrication methods . Before, during and after

Is this your soft hands update Bobby?

 

[PabloCruise]

Not sure the possible consequences of leaving that snap ring off but you certainly can't remove the body of the locker without removing it. I assume we are talking about item 3 below? I used regular snap ring pliers to remove mine and it was a bit difficult but not impossible. I can see it being more difficult to reinstall, especially if he doesn't have the axle pulled out far enough, as mentioned by Mike.

View attachment 3942005

I am getting a little off-label. His is an 80-series, so we are talking drive flanges.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I am getting a little off-label. His is an 80-series, so we are talking drive flanges.

Still looks pretty important to me.

 

[RUSH55]

Is this your soft hands update Bobby?

Don’t want any chafing

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Got back to work on the pig after taking last week off with children and grandchildren in town. Axles and diffs have been sandblasted. They are prepped and I will start tomorrow with paint. Also making good progress on the hinges. Thanks again @J Mack for all of your advice. They are turning out nice. Lots of pics to follow when I finish both.

In the meantime, look what showed up today. I sent these off in late April. Can't swear they were worth the cost but they did turn out nice. I even paid a little extra to have the original tags duplicated. I know; I need help.

A few examples (left to right): Front shoulder harness, front/rear middle lap belt, and rear side lap belt.

 

[DTC72]

Original tags duplicated = over the top and I kinda like it!

 

[jestlurnin]

@WarDamnEagle remind me of the company you used for the belts?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

@WarDamnEagle remind me of the company you used for the belts?

Ssnake Oyl Products

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Finished painting the axles and diffs yesterday. Very pleased with the Mastercoat products. I have used POR15 very successfully in the past but I was sold on other's reviews of the Mastercoat products and I also wanted to use a product with its own topcoat paint. Like all of these products, prep is key.

So ideally I would have powder coated these parts but I didn't want to tear the diffs completely apart to get to a bare housing that could go in the oven. And once I pulled the axles, etc. I saw that the rear axle bearings looked new. In reviewing Redline Cruisers advertisement for this 55 from only a few thousand miles ago, they went through both axles, front and rear. So, rightly or wrongly, I made the uncharacteristic (of me) decision to leave the diffs on the axles, button up the ends with gorilla tape, and to get everything sandblasted. I did pull the washers off so that the sandblasting would get as much surface as possible but otherwise that was the only other prep that I did. I also asked my sandblasting guy (also my powder coat guy) to either tape up the rotating part of the diff output or to at least stay away from that end. Well something got lost in that translation so everything was sandblasted. It doesn't appear to have hurt anything so se la vie.

After blasting I applied the metal prep with a paint brush and let it dry for a couple of hours. Where there is any remaining rust, you get some reaction and bubbling. I came back a couple of hours later and wiped those areas down with a rag soaked in metal prep which helped smooth those areas out. Lastly I used a scotch brite pad and occasionally even a wire wheel cup to smooth up some areas prior to applying the Permanent Rust Sealer. I then let the parts dry overnight before proceeding with paint.

The rest was pretty cut and dry. Two coats of the silver Permanent Rust Sealer applied approximately 3 hours apart, followed by 2 coats of the AG111 (in satin black) the next day. The AG111 is a two part system and I let it dry a little longer between coats, maybe 4 hours or so. Use a nylon/polyester brush for the Permanent Rust Sealer and a china bristle brush for the AG111. The Permanent Rust sealer is very thin; like viscosity of water. The AG111 is much thicker, like latex paint.

1/3 cup of the Permanent Rust Sealer was almost enough to do one coat on all of these parts. 3/4 cup (1/2 cup of part A and 1/4 cup of part B) was more than enough to do a coat of the AG111. I could have easily done one coat of the AG111 with 1/2 cup total but I just used the measuring cups that I had on hand.

After sandblasting:

After metal prep but before I had used the scotch brite pad

After Permanent Rust Sealer

And after 2 coats of AG111

 

[RUSH55]

I’ll be interested in seeing how this stuff holds up.
So you applied everything with brushes?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I’ll be interested in seeing how this stuff holds up.
So you applied everything with brushes?

Yes. It’s advertised as leaving no brush marks but there are some in the AG111 topcoat. I didn’t see any in the rust sealer coat.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Man that looks great, and should for quite some time

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

When you put everything back together, you might consider swapping the front and rear diffs. The rear typically has more wear since 4wd is used so less frequently. Maybe you're already planning this, but just thought I'd mention it.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

When you put everything back together, you might consider swapping the front and rear diffs. The rear typically has more wear since 4wd is used so less frequently. Maybe you're already planning this, but just thought I'd mention it.

Well now that you mention it, I was actually planning just the opposite. I will take a look at both and will consider swapping them, especially if the rear shows more wear. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[bobm]

I usually lock the huds in November and run like that til April . Keeps it lubed and dont have to get out in Winter

 

[riderjgs]

I usually lock the huds in November and run like that til April . Keeps it lubed and dont have to get out in Winter

Kinda like the smart cowboy who sits in the middle so he doesn't have to get out of the pickup to open/close gates.