Builds A pig for Father's Day (16 Viewers)

[J Mack]

the seal circled in red.

The seal circled in red is a pinion seal, no output seals on the input side.
I've seen both solid and crush on the dozen or so Toyota Diffs I've dealt with and you are correct a crush style is a one time use, this is the one time if you're not sure and don't have the skills or tools to deal with it I would "A" not (fix) it if it's not leaking or "B" farm them out to a shop that deals with Toyota diffs.

 

[J Mack]

The sleeve sets the preload on the pinion bearings and it's kind of a big deal to get right and they are a PITA if you've never done one before.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The seal circled in red is a pinion seal, no output seals on the input side.
I've seen both solid and crush on the dozen or so Toyota Diffs I've dealt with and you are correct a crush style is a one time use, this is the one time if you're not sure and don't have the skills or tools to deal with it I would "A" not (fix) it if it's not leaking or "B" farm them out to a shop that deals with Toyota diffs.

I appreciate the note of caution before I just start removing nuts. And thanks for the correction on usage of output. I only meant that generically but I could have at least used input since it is the input side of the diff.

So I have read through the FSM and it doesn't look too difficult to replace the seal assuming you have solid spacers installed and only need to torque the nut and measure the preload. I wouldn't touch this seal at all except when I removed the PTO flange there was some oil sitting in the bottom of the joint flange. I don't have a great photo of the rear but here is one of the front. They both had about the same amount of oil when I removed the shafts. I don't recall noticing any external leaks in that area so maybe it's not a big deal. Not sure where else the fluid could have come from other than the oil seal on the diff though. Maybe someone put some grease around that nut before reassembling the PTO at one time? Grease can eventually lose it's high viscosity and "liquify"; especially if it's constantly agitated.

Based on the FSM and the parts diagrams, I'm sure that this diff originally came with solid spacer(s). Of course that doesn't mean that someone down the line didn't change them to a crush sleeve.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Here’s a great seal

Heavy Duty EcoSeal Pinion Seal

Following in the footsteps of the highly successful Hilux Heavy Duty Front Inner Axle Seal, we present to you our new Heavy Duty Pinion Seal! Features all of the same award winning designs found in…

www.marlincrawler.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Here’s a great seal

Heavy Duty EcoSeal Pinion Seal

Following in the footsteps of the highly successful Hilux Heavy Duty Front Inner Axle Seal, we present to you our new Heavy Duty Pinion Seal! Features all of the same award winning designs found in…

www.marlincrawler.com

Thanks. I used his axle seals on that '85 4Runner about 20 years ago. Was considering using them on the pig as well.

Between Jim's advice and my own "theory" that maybe the oil I found was actually grease at one time, I have pretty much decided to leave those seals alone for now. They are easily accessible when I have this pig back on the road so if they do leak it's not that much trouble to take care of them in situ.

 

[J Mack]

it doesn't look too difficult to replace the seal assuming you have solid spacers installed and only need to torque the nut and measure the preload.

Correct if it is solid replace the seal and re-torque the nut then check in inch pound's to confirm the amount of force to rotate.
We have some Toyota nerds here that will have a better idea of what type of sleeve Mr. Toyota would have used in your axles from the factory and probably give you better advice.
Good luck you are doing a great job so far!

 

[Ol Yeller]

I appreciate the note of caution before I just start removing nuts. And thanks for the correction on usage of output. I only meant that generically but I could have at least used input since it is the input side of the diff.

So I have read through the FSM and it doesn't look too difficult to replace the seal assuming you have solid spacers installed and only need to torque the nut and measure the preload. I wouldn't touch this seal at all except when I removed the PTO flange there was some oil sitting in the bottom of the joint flange. I don't have a great photo of the rear but here is one of the front. They both had about the same amount of oil when I removed the shafts. I don't recall noticing any external leaks in that area so maybe it's not a big deal. Not sure where else the fluid could have come from other than the oil seal on the diff though. Maybe someone put some grease around that nut before reassembling the PTO at one time? Grease can eventually lose it's high viscosity and "liquify"; especially if it's constantly agitated.

Based on the FSM and the parts diagrams, I'm sure that this diff originally came with solid spacer(s). Of course that doesn't mean that someone down the line didn't change them to a crush sleeve.

View attachment 3901500

Both of mine had that wet spot inside as well, I think it comes up the spline past the threads, it can’t get there from a bad seal that I can see. I left mine alone, time will tell if it’s an issue.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Both of mine had that wet spot inside as well, I think it comes up the spline past the threads, it can’t get there from a bad seal that I can see. I left mine alone, time will tell if it’s an issue.

That's good feedback. Very helpful; thanks!

 

[bobm]

Not leaking I wouldnt touch it either

 

[PabloCruise]

Starting tearing down the rear axle today. First problem I encountered was removing the liner pad springs. I have drum brake spring pliers but they don't work on this configuration; or at least I can't make them work.

The directions in the FSM list an SST, 09703-30010, which is NLA. I also don't really understand the process from the photo. It looks like they are using the SST to push down on the top coil, presumably to release the bottom of the spring? Seems like you would want to push down on the bottom coil so that both coils in the spring stretch. Maybe the tool is prying the spring up to release from the top?

View attachment 3884232

I spent a while searching the site but didn't find much help. I'm sure it's there multiple times if one has the patience to go back a few years. I then looked at the order of removal in the FSM and saw to remove the hold down springs and clips first. Well as soon as you do that the pads lean out and all the tension is gone. So now I really don't know what the SST is for. Maybe it's more important when you put everything back together?

View attachment 3884306

Was going to order new pads and drums but mine are well within spec. In fact, I think the pads are almost new. Minimum spec is 0.06" and mine are at 0.25". I'm really and truly a "buy everything you can new" guy but I'm probably going to delete those from my cart. The wheel cylinders are a bit grimy so I need to clean them up but the rubber on them also looks new. So maybe all the brake components were rebuilt before I bought this pig. Makes sense if it truly was sitting in a barn for 25 years (Redline Cruiser claim before it sold to two POs before me - neither of which kept it very long).

I got a lot of parts with this pig but unfortunately not a single maintenance record.

View attachment 3884309

View attachment 3884310

Those little retainer clips and pins are a treat to reinstall.

I would just make sure the liner material is dry and clean. I have heard of people wiping them w/ acetone, but IDK if that is proper prep?

 

[PabloCruise]

Made a long day trip yesterday to Memphis to drop the engine off at Mosley Motors, 6 hours each way. Would have been a bit faster if I hadn't timed Birmingham rush hour traffic perfectly going and coming. Not as bad as Atlanta but I'm glad I don't live there.

Was nice to finally meet Cam @FJ60Cam in person.

What is the turn-around time on a Mosley rebuild?

 

[PabloCruise]

Slow and easy.

Just how I like my - ah, never mind...

 

[PabloCruise]

I don't think so but maybe; I'm talking about the seal circled in red.

If the pinion spacer is 41344 on the diagram, then I'm thinking it's a solid pinion spacer based on the specific parts list. But I have no practical knowledge of what that means other than I assume a crush sleeve "crushes" to a specific torque and probably can't be reused.

41344	SPACER, DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT
41344-35010	T=29.775-29.800	1
41345-35010	T=30.175-30.200	1
41346-35010	T=30.575-30.600	1
41347-35010	T=28.975-29.000	1
41348-35010	T=29.375-29.400

View attachment 3901336

Your scan shows the shim set up.
This is some fun reading: Third Member Swap - DENIED!!! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/third-member-swap-denied.49036/

 

[PabloCruise]

The sleeve sets the preload on the pinion bearings and it's kind of a big deal to get right and they are a PITA if you've never done one before.

I can attest to that.
From 20 some years ago: Third Member Swap - DENIED!!! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/third-member-swap-denied.49036/

 

[WarDamnEagle]

What is the turn-around time on a Mosley rebuild?

Undefined. Cam said it depends on the time it takes to get everything through the machine shop(s). I'm guessing it will be a race between the body and the motor as to which becomes the critical path on the build. On the positive side, I am getting my frame back next week and I am not feeling any pressure (albeit self-imposed but still) to rush getting the chassis back together.

In other news, the Transmission and Transfer Case were shipped back yesterday, not that I can do much with them without the motor.

 

[PabloCruise]

I appreciate the note of caution before I just start removing nuts. And thanks for the correction on usage of output. I only meant that generically but I could have at least used input since it is the input side of the diff.

So I have read through the FSM and it doesn't look too difficult to replace the seal assuming you have solid spacers installed and only need to torque the nut and measure the preload. I wouldn't touch this seal at all except when I removed the PTO flange there was some oil sitting in the bottom of the joint flange. I don't have a great photo of the rear but here is one of the front. They both had about the same amount of oil when I removed the shafts. I don't recall noticing any external leaks in that area so maybe it's not a big deal. Not sure where else the fluid could have come from other than the oil seal on the diff though. Maybe someone put some grease around that nut before reassembling the PTO at one time? Grease can eventually lose it's high viscosity and "liquify"; especially if it's constantly agitated.

Based on the FSM and the parts diagrams, I'm sure that this diff originally came with solid spacer(s). Of course that doesn't mean that someone down the line didn't change them to a crush sleeve.

View attachment 3901500

One thing that happens is the shims that accompany the spacer can spin, and break. Then they are not valid for setting pre-load, so you need to start over w/ new shims.

 

[PabloCruise]

Both of mine had that wet spot inside as well, I think it comes up the spline past the threads, it can’t get there from a bad seal that I can see. I left mine alone, time will tell if it’s an issue.

You can put some sealant on the splines when you put the pinion back together.

 

[PabloCruise]

In other news, the Transmission and Transfer Case were shipped back yesterday, not that I can do much with them without the motor.

Where did you send the tranny and t-case?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

One thing that happens is the shims that accompany the spacer can spin, and break. Then they are not valid for setting pre-load, so you need to start over w/ new shims.

You can put some sealant on the splines when you put the pinion back together.

I'm just going to wire wheel and paint the case and leave the rest alone - for now. That minor amount of oil I found wasn't making it's way out of the flange joint as far as I can tell.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Where did you send the tranny and t-case?

To Georg at Valley Hybrids. I didn't have to send them but.....I needed new seals, internal and external, and Georg convinced me to rebuild the transfer case since they tend to wear out much faster than the transmission. I also wanted their double seal setup on the transfer case output seal. It didn't take much to decide the sum total of that effort was above my pay grade. They did a great job with my FZJ75 H150F transmission when I had a broken reverse shift fork. One less thing for me to concern myself with.