Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

[cruiserbrett]

Just visible here, on the upside down evaporator:

Post Pictures of factory AC.

Looking for pics of Factory Air Conditioners, All Years 55s, Pics from inside dash, How it comes out of the Firewall, How hoses are routed, AC compressor, and the condenser. Thanks to all. Please post the year of 55

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well would you look at this. I guess I have a good spare if anybody needs one. Thanks @cruiserbrett; pretty sure I would have only found that bracket when I started reassembling the pig.

Not a great photo but deflector is there as well.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Made a long day trip yesterday to Memphis to drop the engine off at Mosley Motors, 6 hours each way. Would have been a bit faster if I hadn't timed Birmingham rush hour traffic perfectly going and coming. Not as bad as Atlanta but I'm glad I don't live there.

Was nice to finally meet Cam @FJ60Cam in person.

 

[DTC72]

Now that is going to be sweet to have a Mosley Motors engine!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Headed to Toledo in the morning. Dropping off the frame for chemical stripping and derusting. Will have to go back in 10 days or so to pick it up. It will then go a couple of hours west to Elkhart, Indiana for e coating. That process is literally drop off one day and pick up the next. Taking a box of frame attachments as well. Ultimately the frame will most likely get powder coated on top of the e coat. Still debating that question a bit but I have used a local guy for powder coating that has a giant oven and routinely does frames. Powder might be the path of least resistance.

is riding along this trip. After we drop off the frame we are going over to NW Indiana to visit our youngest son before heading back south.

 

[DTC72]

Headed to Toledo in the morning. Dropping off the frame for chemical stripping and derusting. Will have to go back in 10 days or so to pick it up. It will then go a couple of hours west to Elkhart, Indiana for e coating. That process is literally drop off one day and pick up the next. Taking a box of frame attachments as well. Ultimately the frame will most likely get powder coated on top of the e coat. Still debating that question a bit but I have used a local guy for powder coating that has a giant oven and routinely does frames. Powder might be the path of least resistance.

is riding along this trip. After we drop off the frame we are going over to NW Indiana to visit our youngest son before heading back south.

View attachment 3894689

Literally the definition of “starting from the ground up” or creating a “sound foundation.” Well done! I will enjoy following your build.

 

[bobm]

Always thought E-Coat was just a temporary paint for storage and shipment . For like fenders and other body parts

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Always thought E-Coat was just a temporary paint for storage and shipment . For like fenders and other body parts

No, just like powder coating, it’s a way to apply paint. In this case it’s PPG technology and the paint is epoxy based. It’s a total immersion process so it gets everywhere unless there’s an air pocket. Like powder coating it’s bake cured. They will put the frame into the different baths on edge like a piece of toast and will agitate the frame during the process. Pretty sure there will not be any uncoated areas.

Here’s some light reading on Ford’s frame coating process.

Ford F-Series Frames Make Chevy's Old Tech Look Silly

While the F-Series (and every other truck) has switched to E-Coating, GM lags behind with decades-old wax dipping.

www.ford-trucks.com

 

[J Mack]

Always thought E-Coat was just a temporary paint for storage and shipment

ED coat was exactly that when we used to get those black factory replacement fenders...

ED Coated Automotive Engine Component & Body Parts Manufacturer Malaysia | ED Coating Metal Furniture Manufacturer Malaysia | ED Coating Motorcycle and Bicycle Parts Manufacturer Malaysia | ED Coating Home Appliances Manufacturer Malaysia

litrosb.com

 

[bobm]

Most body shops would remove it before priming

 

[scrapdaddy]

There's a place not too far from me that can galvanize frames, like the Land Rovers. I've given that a thought.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

There's a place not too far from me that can galvanize frames, like the Land Rovers. I've given that a thought.

Galvanizing was my first thought but after a lot of research I decided to go the way I'm headed. The concern about galvanizing that made me pause was the cleaning aspect. Some say the temperature of the galvanized bath will remove anything and everything and others say it has to be cleaned and de-rusted first. I have also seen very different end results regarding smoothness of the galvanizing. Some look perfect and other examples show build up and large runs in areas.

If anyone is interested, this is the e coating plant I will use: https://corporate.lippert.com/manufacturing/coatings/e-coating

I have spoken to the Plant Manager. They do mostly automotive industry and military but have spare capacity to take on auto restoration clients. He said they do one or two frames a week for individuals / small restoration shops.

As I said a few posts up, I will either powder coat or top coat as the e coat is not 100% UV stable but as far as a process to get an epoxy primer into a boxed frame with 100% coverage, the only other process that is comparable is galvanizing. Also, once you have the epoxy primer baked on, there is no further prep needed for powder coating. Would have to confirm on other finish coatings as I haven't looked deep into that subject but I think most coatings are compatible with an epoxy primer.

 

[PabloCruise]

If I wanted to remove the internals in my front and rear differential housings, I assume it's more complicated than just unbolting the flange nut and pulling everything out the back? I have removed and replaced thirds several times but I have never tried to remove the guts from the housing. Just wondering how involved this could get.

Hard to tell, for example, if the slinger and bearing that is circled will move with the shaft or are they pressed into the housing and onto the shaft? Please forgive my ignorance. Just not something I have dove into before. Also, it's not a must do; more a nice to have.

View attachment 3877244

I am sure this has been covered by now if this post is a month old, but yes, you are pressing those bearings out.
Great if you want to re-gear, replace the bearings and set up new R&P, but that is some skilled labor!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I am sure this has been covered by now if this post is a month old, but yes, you are pressing those bearings out.
Great if you want to re-gear, replace the bearings and set up new R&P, but that is some skilled labor!

Yes I'm not taking that apart other than to change the output oil seal and dust cover. I had a fleeting idea about powder coating the diff housing and I assumed it wouldn't be good to expose the internals to the oven temps required.

Latest thoughts are to use POR15 on the diff housing and axles and topcoat with some 2K flavor of chassis black (e.g. Eastwood).

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I have been a bit lazy since our whirlwind trip to Ohio and Indiana to take the frame and to visit our son. But I started tearing down the rear axle a couple of days ago. All the gears and the drive shafts look pretty good. I don't see anything that gives me any concern. Assuming the bearings look equally good, I will probably just change the axle seals and the output oil seal on the input side of the differential. The collars on the end of the axle housing are still available so I will change them as well; assuming I can get them off (circled in red on first photo). Haven't tried yet other than by hand, which obviously didn't work.

For those of you that are undertaking this for the first time (like me), the FSM leaves a bit to be desired. After you take the access cover off, the FSM says to remove the bolt that holds the Pinion Shaft and then to remove the Pinion Shaft and the spacer. You are then supposed to push the axles inward a bit, one at a time, and remove the Axle Shaft Lock (basically a large C clip). You can then slide the axles out the ends.

What the FSM doesn't say is that once you push a drive shaft in, the Shaft Lock might fall off by itself. It also doesn't say that two of the gears with their respective conical washers will also be loose when you remove the Pinion Shaft. So basically I was expecting the Shaft Locks to be difficult to remove and to have a grand total of 5 parts in my hands. Instead I had 9 parts, some of which I had to dig out of the housing with long needle nose pliers. Not a big deal but they could have at least mentioned the two gears and washers.

I ordered Mastercoat Rust Sealer, AG111 top coat in satin black, and their metal prep this morning. Actually I ordered a kit which also has the solvent for cleanup. I'm going to use that product for the axles and other miscellaneous parts. Will probably just wire wheel the axles for example before using their prep and paint products.

Gratuitous photo of our '85 4Runner on the lift. It's getting new ARB spring bushings and a little general TLC.

 

[scrapdaddy]

What the FSM doesn't say is that once you push a drive shaft in, the Shaft Lock might fall off by itself. It also doesn't say that two of the gears with their respective conical washers will also be loose when you remove the Pinion Shaft. So basically I was expecting the Shaft Locks to be difficult to remove and to have a grand total of 5 parts in my hands. Instead I had 9 parts, some of which I had to dig out of the housing with long needle nose pliers. Not a big deal but they could have at least mentioned the two gears and washers.

The fun part is putting those spider gears back in place. Slow and easy.

 

[J Mack]

the output seal

Are you talking about the pinion seal?
Do you know if you have a solid pinion spacer with shims or a crush sleeve?

 

[bobm]

Who's 4runner ? Me tried Gnite

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Are you talking about the pinion seal?
Do you know if you have a solid pinion spacer with shims or a crush sleeve?

I don't think so but maybe; I'm talking about the seal circled in red.

If the pinion spacer is 41344 on the diagram, then I'm thinking it's a solid pinion spacer based on the specific parts list. But I have no practical knowledge of what that means other than I assume a crush sleeve "crushes" to a specific torque and probably can't be reused.

41344	SPACER, DIFFERENTIAL PINION SHAFT
41344-35010	T=29.775-29.800	1
41345-35010	T=30.175-30.200	1
41346-35010	T=30.575-30.600	1
41347-35010	T=28.975-29.000	1
41348-35010	T=29.375-29.400

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Who's 4runner ? Me tried Gnite

Mine; or rather ours. Wife used that for her first engineering job inspecting subdivisions, etc. We bought it used but only 6 months old. Been at our hunting property for years hauling deer out of the woods.