The output seal is not a difficult job.
Builds A pig for Father's Day (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
- Start date
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Like @Lifelong40Fan said, you can change the seal easily. The rest requires disassembly since the bearing is pressed in. Once you disassemble you need to rebuild and check backlash and mesh patterns. No point in doing that unless you're gear swapping or like to create extra work for yourself.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #965
Thanks everyone. Looks like the carrier housing will get refinished intact. I will change the seals and the dust deflectors (which are cheap and still available). I really need to set myself up to be able to spray these parts myself.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
At some point I’ll probably have to re-paint a lot of the cast iron that I painted. The porosity holds on to a lot of the oils and contaminants which in turn greatly hinder adhesion. You’ll know right away when you go to tighten a bolt to a part and all the paint around it cracks out and chips off.
I won’t go through the trouble of painting parts like steering arms, knuckles, diff housings, etc… without a really good solvent/acetone bath and sandblasting. Unless you’re just going to paint it with spray paint, then never mind what I just said.
I won’t go through the trouble of painting parts like steering arms, knuckles, diff housings, etc… without a really good solvent/acetone bath and sandblasting. Unless you’re just going to paint it with spray paint, then never mind what I just said.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #967
I disassembled the axles on my '85 4Runner maybe 15 years ago, wire wheeled everything down to bare metal, and then used POR15 metal prep followed by POR15 paint. Not a single issue to date and it has been used extensively in the woods for hunting. I did have access to a steam cleaner during that process and, between the steam cleaner and Simple Green, I got everything degreased very well. Or at least it was well enough. Ideally you should put a top coat over POR15 as it's not entirely UV stable but this 4Runner was garaged when it wasn't in the woods so the paint is still fairly glossy.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Are you going to use POR15 again?
I think the difference there is the acid-etch step in the prep? Might be a better option than the standard primer and paint routine, especially if everything is going to be black.
I think the difference there is the acid-etch step in the prep? Might be a better option than the standard primer and paint routine, especially if everything is going to be black.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #969
I don't know yet. Tempting though since it lays down pretty smooth with a brush. Would have to figure out the topcoat. Maybe something like Eastwood 2K chassis black. An alternative would be the Mastercoat products. They have the complete line from metal prep to topcoat.
I don't think I will use any of those on the frame though. Going a different direction with that. Still working on the details but getting there.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Pre Heat wit a Hot 
ing torch b4 appying POBO 15 
ing torch b4 appying POBO 15 bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
N have a POBO while waitin 
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #972
Domestic duties took priority last week but I did manage to spend a bit of time in the shop. Stripped the axle brake lines and tires. Also made sure the engine and transmission/transfer case were both ready to go. Need to get a shipping weight on the transmission. Ordered a digital crane scale which is supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Will then just sling the pallet with two lifting straps and hang it from the tractor.
I did find one item that I found a bit odd when I was removing the brakes. The rear brake 3 way splitter has a hole built into the assembly that the rear axle breather tube goes through. No idea why they would engineer it that way. Of course the breather tube is NLA but I blew through mine and it is clear. Nothing better than the taste of diff fluid in the morning.
Next step will be to remove the springs and axles. I know I will at a minimum tear front and rear down to the backing plates (for paint) and will do the front birfs. Might not go any further than that though.
I did find one item that I found a bit odd when I was removing the brakes. The rear brake 3 way splitter has a hole built into the assembly that the rear axle breather tube goes through. No idea why they would engineer it that way. Of course the breather tube is NLA but I blew through mine and it is clear. Nothing better than the taste of diff fluid in the morning.
Next step will be to remove the springs and axles. I know I will at a minimum tear front and rear down to the backing plates (for paint) and will do the front birfs. Might not go any further than that though.
sofj45
Supporting Vendor
This far into why not just rebuild the axles? I get it there has to be a stopping point but I think you past that awhile ago. And now you’re all the way there. If you pull knuckles to rebuild and paint you might as well pull axle shafts and then drop third. It’s only a few more bolts. Then you can see what the gears look like. Just seems like your kinda all in on this one to me seems like one more day or tearing down isn’t gonna hurt the timeline.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #974
Well it might...if I had a timeline. Guessing I would have eventually talked myself into pulling the axles and thirds but a little encouragement never hurts. Of course some of the decision making is around prep and painting. If I wanted to have the axles and thirds media blasted, for example, the only way to do that without taking the guts out of the thirds is to keep everything together.
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Look at it as a wonderful opportunity to learn everything there is to know about setting up Landcruiser thirds! You could be the next authority!
sofj45
Supporting Vendor
Just seems like putting that much time and effort back into a rig and then putting it all on old bearings and seals is a tough one. I mean I guess if you don’t touch em you atleast know where the next possible project is once you start driving it.
Yup, easy enough to crack it open after it’s primed.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
me needs sime Chapstick 
