I picked up the same thing on Amazon. Used it for that one bolt.. and to impress my friends...
A Low Cost 300 ft-lb Torque Wrench - DIY Shop-Built (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bambusiero
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Part of the rationale is that impact sockets are generally 6-point and made for heavy duty work, meaning they contact the faces of the fastener more thus spreading out the transfer of load applied by the tool connected to the socket more effectively.
Related to this - how do you lock the flywheel or driveplate in order to prevent the motor rotating when trying to remove or fit a crank pulley on a toyota 1fz or 1hz/1hdt engine? Is there a factory tool or process to achieve this?
Related to this - how do you lock the flywheel or driveplate in order to prevent the motor rotating when trying to remove or fit a crank pulley on a toyota 1fz or 1hz/1hdt engine? Is there a factory tool or process to achieve this?
Lots of methods. There's a sst from Toyota, but others including ottram (and wits end?) make an equivalent. A deep well 14mm socket on the flywheel also works, but I prefer holding the pulley whenever possible. Those who want to save a buck and don't mind fabricating usually make their own, it's rally easy. I cobbled together the one seen in post 34 in probably less than 25 minutes, including finding scraps around the garage
I'm gonna try 4th gear, wheels chocked, and hope the clutch holds it
otherwise, I'll be hot gluing scraps of steel together, similar to @60 toy ota
There's a member in the 80stech section that sells a tool that bolts to the pulley, and uses a breaker bar to stop rotation
I showed my buddies my torque wrench collection. I can go from 25in# to 600 ft# inclusive. They were duly impressed.I picked up the same thing on Amazon. Used it for that one bolt.. and to impress my friends...
I paid as much for the micro 25 in# as I did for The Beast. Little booger should come in a velvet lined oak chest for what they wanted for it.
The 14mm deep impact on the fly wheel worked for me.
I'm gonna try 4th gear, wheels chocked, and hope the clutch holds it
otherwise, I'll be hot gluing scraps of steel together, similar to @60 toy ota
There's a member in the 80stech section that sells a tool that bolts to the pulley, and uses a breaker bar to stop rotation
Well, tire deflection made this a no go.
Welded up a bar to hold the crank pulley in place.
The end of the bar was long enough to rest on the floor to stop rotation.
Extension on the torque adapter worked no problem.
Bambusiero
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- #48
Nicely done! This seems quite practical... I do think your solution has added to the MUD-tech.
To refine even further - to the nth degree? - maybe add an offset to the extension bar, so the length of the digital torque sensor and it's tendency to cause axial rotation is removed, putting your hand force and the driven socket in the same plane.
To refine even further - to the nth degree? - maybe add an offset to the extension bar, so the length of the digital torque sensor and it's tendency to cause axial rotation is removed, putting your hand force and the driven socket in the same plane.
Rotation wasn't a problem.
I think with an offset handle, the load path through the torque adapter really stays the same. I don't think it would prevent rotation
