This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #42
Crawled under today and got the new used shock in place. Dropped the spare for accessibility. Used large channel locks to keep shock from spinning. Was able to fit a ratcheting boxhead in there.
Spare was from 07 and had 2-4 holes in it.
Was very surprised when the spare tire crossmember let down the spare with no problems. Blasted some lube in there til it was dripping out.
Sorry for the blurry pic...
Passenger side is broken off below the frame hole so it’s going to be more challenging.
Spare was from 07 and had 2-4 holes in it.
Was very surprised when the spare tire crossmember let down the spare with no problems. Blasted some lube in there til it was dripping out.
Sorry for the blurry pic...
Passenger side is broken off below the frame hole so it’s going to be more challenging.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #43
Tackled the passenger side today. Ohh boy.
Shock broke off below the bushings making this much more difficult.
Spent about 4 hours and 2 trips to Lowe’s for tools and pblaster. Quickly realized that I couldn’t just unbolt it w the ratcheting wrench I bought.
Bit the bullet and decided to do the top down approach via drilling access hole in the body.
After measuring and doing some pilot holes I took the plunge and drilled a 1.5” hole into the floor. Astonished it worked I proceeded to try and get an impact socket on there, only to find out I was just too far over.
Frustrated with my mistake I went half inch over and drilled again. This time I could lay the impact socket onto the nut, and also managed to nick the outside of the rear ac line..absolutely furious I pressed on (if anyone can get an idea based on pics I’d love to know if the line is still usable).
Insert 1-2 hours of me using my pneumatic and electric impact guns and socket with breaker bar. And one and a half little cans of pblaster.
Finally dawned on me to drop the spare and see if I could reach it from the back. Lo and behold I could with my sawzall. Not even 5 min of sawing with a new blade the bottom bushings and plate were off.
Shock broke off below the bushings making this much more difficult.
Spent about 4 hours and 2 trips to Lowe’s for tools and pblaster. Quickly realized that I couldn’t just unbolt it w the ratcheting wrench I bought.
Bit the bullet and decided to do the top down approach via drilling access hole in the body.
After measuring and doing some pilot holes I took the plunge and drilled a 1.5” hole into the floor. Astonished it worked I proceeded to try and get an impact socket on there, only to find out I was just too far over.
Frustrated with my mistake I went half inch over and drilled again. This time I could lay the impact socket onto the nut, and also managed to nick the outside of the rear ac line..absolutely furious I pressed on (if anyone can get an idea based on pics I’d love to know if the line is still usable).
Insert 1-2 hours of me using my pneumatic and electric impact guns and socket with breaker bar. And one and a half little cans of pblaster.
Finally dawned on me to drop the spare and see if I could reach it from the back. Lo and behold I could with my sawzall. Not even 5 min of sawing with a new blade the bottom bushings and plate were off.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #46
In summary, if you have broken shock with bolt and bushings still in blade:
-Jack up in rear under lower trailing arm mount.
-place jack under frame just forward of front lower trialing arm mount
-from center of d ring but, go about 3” back and 4” over. Double check..
-cut 1.5” hole in floor. Go s-l-o-w. I did and still nicked the line.
-drop spare tire. Spray some blaster or lube into tire carrier for good measure.
-crawls forward and get sawzall at the ready, place new metal cutting blade as close betweeen the frame and top lower bushing as possible.
-cut and keep cutting despite smoke and crust flying.
-assuming you’ve already removed busted shock, begin install.
-at some point in the beginning take the wheel off. Once done installing shock put it back on.
-Jack up in rear under lower trailing arm mount.
-place jack under frame just forward of front lower trialing arm mount
-from center of d ring but, go about 3” back and 4” over. Double check..
-cut 1.5” hole in floor. Go s-l-o-w. I did and still nicked the line.
-drop spare tire. Spray some blaster or lube into tire carrier for good measure.
-crawls forward and get sawzall at the ready, place new metal cutting blade as close betweeen the frame and top lower bushing as possible.
-cut and keep cutting despite smoke and crust flying.
-assuming you’ve already removed busted shock, begin install.
-at some point in the beginning take the wheel off. Once done installing shock put it back on.
Last edited:
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #48
No real updates aside I think my AC just needs recharged- it has gotten up to 80 around here and i can run the air with the windows up adn not overheat. Ive had a car that had chronic AC problems and it would always blow hot when it went out. Cruiser isn't blowing hot, just not cold. Was thinking about getting one of the recharge cans from autozone or WM and giving that a go.
Also came to say that this truck is such a pleasure to drive, despite the steering whine and sagging front end. Such a pleasant ride and the seat is leaps and bounds better than our 2016 pilot despite having 220k more miles and 17 more years on the cruiser.
I do need a new driver seatbelt sooner than later, this one isn't wanting to retract or stiffen very much.
Also came to say that this truck is such a pleasure to drive, despite the steering whine and sagging front end. Such a pleasant ride and the seat is leaps and bounds better than our 2016 pilot despite having 220k more miles and 17 more years on the cruiser.
I do need a new driver seatbelt sooner than later, this one isn't wanting to retract or stiffen very much.
Yes, should be pushing 14v or better.
Cant use the OEM gauge for anything other than if there is some voltage. But yes while running a healthy system will be 14-14.3V give or take. That looks totally normal. A Scangauge or the like is best to have.
I have the same little ticking dependent on speed on the passenger side. I took it to Mr Tire (yes, I know, but I like this one particular mechanic there) and he changed out the driver side CV joint, saying it was badly worn (I looked at the unit he pulled out, and it was), but the ticking remains. I'm just living with it. I suspect the passenger side may be wearing out. My 98 has 350K miles on the clock, so I'm pretty sanguine about it. I hope you do definitively determine what the noise is.
I really only notice it when I have the passenger window open and I am driving past a jersey barrier or a surface that sound bounces off of.
I really only notice it when I have the passenger window open and I am driving past a jersey barrier or a surface that sound bounces off of.
