Builds A 60 Runs through it… (1 Viewer)

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After picking up the RTT decided shortest way home on HWY 26 was best. Also it would make a really nice loop and change of scenery.
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Mt. Jefferson 10,495’
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Decided to fill up in Madras, Oregon before heading over the mountains. Trip odometer was 278 miles and used 13.2 gallons, 21.06 mpg. Best I’ve gotten yet.
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Amazing sunset descending into the Deschutes River Canyon looking at Mt. Jefferson.
 
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Mt. Hood 11,245’
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The sun was setting and was an amazing day for a trip to Central Oregon. I just had to stop and soak it all in.
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Mt. Jefferson and Olallie Butte to the right
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Such a great tradition. We had a Christmas Tree Farm and still went up into the snow to get a mountain grown tree every year.
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My rear quarter panels are ready for replacement and am ready to replace and build my own rear storage compartments for them and the tail gate with ABS panels.
 
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Pulling a well pump in basement of building in downtown Portland with chain hoist. 2” pipe 80gpm 7-1/2 HP set at 168’.
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After getting the pump out instead of using the chain hoist bought a 1500 pound Badlands winch to set the pump. Replaced the 2” S40 galvanized with 2” S120 PVC deep set pipe and SS couplings.
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I’ve noticed the 4BT has been cold blooded especially on my trip to Bend. I’m still getting heat out the heater and water temps still getting up to 140F
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at times but as it can quickly drop back down and bottom out.
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Not noticing any performance issues but thinking its time to block part or all of the radiator. I’ve got a Cummins 180F thermostat. Another thing is my engine bay has a lot of open real estate and wide gap between the back of the radiator to the front of the motor to allow cold to blow up into the engine bay. Perhaps I need to get a skid plate to block this off. @boots4 @Kief have any pointers?
 
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I’ve noticed the 4BT has been cold blooded especially on my trip to Bend. I’m still getting heat out the heater and water temps still getting up to 140F
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at times but as it can quickly drop back down and bottom out.
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Not noticing any performance issues but thinking its time to block part or all of the radiator. I’ve got a Cummins 180F thermostat. Another thing is my engine bay has a lot of open real estate and wide gap between the back of the radiator to the front of the motor to allow cold to blow up into the engine bay. Perhaps I need to get a skid plate to block this off. @boots4 @Kief have any pointers?
I've used a flat piece of cardboard in Iraq to partially block the radiator. Works great.
 
Today into work I watched my water temp and it never got over 130F yet I get to work and my radiator is warm. Could my new Cummins 180F thermostat be stuck open? Ordered a temp gun.
 
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Doubt the thermostat is stuck open. You just have a lot of space for all the heat to go and no additional coolers besides the intercooler to block the airflow. Doing some blocking experiments with cardboard sounds like a solution. Right now I'm running ~160-170F with all that stuff in my engine bay and all my coolers in the cooling row.

Seeing your gauge picture your egts are really low too.
 
In my experience when the thermo is stuck open, the temperatures fluctuate quickly - sitting at a traffic light the temp will come up, start moving and it will drop.
 
Pickup a temp gun this morning to check temp. My water temp gauge is in the back of motor and is right on.
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Fan sensor had the highest temp.
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Radiator hose
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Radiator cap
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Twice I’ve checked water temp since the Speedhut gauges and the temp gun showed the front hotter than the back of motor.
 
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I bet it’s stuck open or you’ve got a bypass hose working against you. If you’ve got a 180f thermostat, and the engine isn’t at 180, you shouldn’t have substantial coolant flow in the top hose.
 
I bet it’s stuck open or you’ve got a bypass hose working against you. If you’ve got a 180f thermostat, and the engine isn’t at 180, you shouldn’t have substantial coolant flow in the top hose.
That’s what I’m thinking. The thermostat should not open until 180F and I’m operating well. Slow that and my radiator is warm at 130F and noticeably hotter at 160F. It shouldn’t have any coolant flow until the Thermostat opens at 180F.
 
What are the avg temps there? Like 20-30?
 
What are the avg temps there? Like 20-30?
Bend trip was 20s to teens. It’s been milder now in the 40s. Would it be more accurate moving my water temp gauge from back of motor to the front or is this more accurate as the heat is rising at that spot making it hotter, thus the rear is the more accurate water temp.
 
One thought is it might run at operating temp if you're able to get it to operating temp for awhile. I think the first thing I would do would be to just let it idle for awhile with the heater off and some cardboard in front of the radiator and see if you can get it to warm up at all. I'm a Florida boy though and this is not my area of expertise.
 

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