I don’t have build pictures of the bumper. Anything in particular you’re interested in?
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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Great eye AnyMal. I saw it too but I have an Inspiration so it stands out to me personally.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Underneath, how it attaches and holds the AHC pump, and if you have one with the bumper skin off showing how you did the rear swings, that'd help too.
LX sway bar clearance for 37s. I thought I needed to push the sway bar forward 1" via a KDSS relocation bracket. Maybe not... Wonder what other LX owners have done?
Looking at my sway bar, I have two witness marks. The bright one from 35x12.5s on +35mm effective offset. The fainter black oval witness mark from the new 37x12.5 on the same +35mm offset. Interesting thing is that where the 37s contact, is about where the sway bar is bending away from the tire. I'm starting to think leave as is.
I'm running @PerryParts compliant sway bushings. This might be another tool that could help as it'll allow more play of the sway bar side to side, so a little kiss and rub on occasion against a smooth round bar is not the worst thing.
I'm also going to 1.25" spacers (lower offset) so it'll make a bit more clearance again and push the contact more forward still.
TLDR: I'm thinking 37s just drop in in regards to the LX sway bar.
Looking at my sway bar, I have two witness marks. The bright one from 35x12.5s on +35mm effective offset. The fainter black oval witness mark from the new 37x12.5 on the same +35mm offset. Interesting thing is that where the 37s contact, is about where the sway bar is bending away from the tire. I'm starting to think leave as is.
I'm running @PerryParts compliant sway bushings. This might be another tool that could help as it'll allow more play of the sway bar side to side, so a little kiss and rub on occasion against a smooth round bar is not the worst thing.
I'm also going to 1.25" spacers (lower offset) so it'll make a bit more clearance again and push the contact more forward still.
TLDR: I'm thinking 37s just drop in in regards to the LX sway bar.
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turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Go for the Tundra swap
I was getting that same mark in the passengers side LC sway bar when running 34s on +25 offset with about 3.7* of caster, along with a very minor contact and n the KDSS arm. The KDSS relo eliminated that, with the obvious caveats that it tweaks the sway bar end links unless you mount them outside the cradle like I did, and that I’m an LC, not an LX.
That said if you’re getting contact on your LX I wouldn’t hesitate to push the bar forward and relocate the end links. I’ve got 3.5 years and 50k on my setup and I’m not seeing any downside to except reinstalling the end links is a bit of a hassle since they don’t line up squarely with the standard KDSS relo.
If you don’t have a 1” KDSS relo kit on hand, just buy some 6010 aluminum and make your own 1.5” relo kit, which will give extra extra clearance and should also allow the end links to sit perfectly straight outside the cradle. I have a couple blocks and keep meaning to do this but it’s been low priority.
(If you do have a KDSS relo kit handy, can you let me know what the bolt thread size/pattern is, so I can make sure I have a suitable tap before I pull it apart
)
Just make a nice smooth recess in your swaybar there. Softening it a little bit until I finally convince you to just remove it altogether
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
How are you looking on opposite frame side? Is it clearing frame when hitting the bar?
Reviewing that first pic, I’m confused but it looks like you have a KDSS relo kit installed backwards?
Go for the Tundra swap
Trying to keep the meats tucking under the fender. Without that self imposed constraint, this might make more sense.
(If you do have a KDSS relo kit handy, can you let me know what the bolt thread size/pattern is, so I can make sure I have a suitable tap before I pull it apart
90% sure as I don't have a thread checker, but looks like it's an M12 x 1.25 fine thread bolt.
Good question. I haven't quite turned full lock yet as I need chop the body mounts a bit more. Looks like it may have touched the wheel well engine shield. Things are tight as you know. Will have to keep an eye on this.
The relo is in the right orientation but I hadn't put the sway bar bracket on just yet.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I pulled my front fenders out around 3/4-1" to clear my 35x12.5 BFGs. When these tires get worn out, I'll go up in size to 37s and try to make them fit without cutting the front fenders.
I also owe you some of my rear shock spacers, I'll send you a set soon!
Ah, that's a pretty good pull! Gives me more confidence I can roll the fenders out enough to tuck 37s under with minimal body lift.
Sure, would enjoy checking out the shock spacers.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
You probably can get more, the fenders are pretty flimsy.
I'll pm you when I'm ready to ship, probably this weekend.
Yeah, I can see what you're saying as I have the liners out at the moment. The rear ones won't be as fun. They look pretty stiff. I'll probably need to grind the stacked lip first.
The real question is will you be wishing for 4.88s with 37s?
He will when he’s towing.
On 35s with 4.88s and pulling my trailer over Vail pass I was maintaining 52mph passing semis and other trailers. 14,400 GCWR. Cruising along the flatlands in Illinois I was holding 75-76 steady in 5th gear. And my setup is lighter than his
The 5.7L is a brute, and I think gearing will generally be solid with 4.3s. In really slow rock crawling would I maybe want for more. This is coming from running 33s on stock gearing for many years, and going to 37s on 4.3 gears will put me at that same gearing.
For towing, I've run 33s on stock gearing towing the same heavy 27' AS trailer. Power and torque at the wheels will be fine. At higher elevations, it'll just be okay. What I'm more concerned about towing with 37s is actually loss of engine braking and potential stability compromises, rather than power.
4.88s would be nice and I won't rule it out for future. I might build a set on the side. After that, swapping in would just be a weekend. I might be able to even sell the 4.3 set and not have much outlay? I do wonder if 4.88s are strong enough to do the towing I do. Larger ratios are inherently weaker, with smaller teeth and contact area.
One other data point I’ll add, as someone still on 35s w/stock 3.90s is that this LCDC was the first year I felt under geared in terms of my ability to leverage 4lo 1st for engine braking. It just wasn’t enough and my brakes got hammered. I did a couple of of the big San Juan passes with @linuxgod and @kcjaz and their trucks with 4.88s and they just walked down where I was just modulating constantly.
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nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I think you'll be OK on your rear fender lip, the only part I had to cut was underneath the bumper skin.
Yeah, for the rear tires, I've been checking out your pics of where to cut. Thx for that.
Probably just the style of off-roading I do, but I will likely have to grind/roll the fenders more at the 12 o-clock area. I already had to with my 35x12.5s as they contacted on hard square hits that compress both rear tires at once. I'm aiming for a lower offset with the 37x12.5s with 1.25" spacers, so I'll probably need at least 1/4" more clearance from that fender lip.
