Houston guy here in the woodlands...Totally down for a Town 200s meet up. Also need to see this beast on 37s in person,,,
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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Looks amazing!
Any updates on a commercially available body lift kit?
I swapped a few PM's with @Rusty Hinge and he seems to have it on his list. Here's to hoping it's something we see sooner than later!
Not gonna happen unless KDSS gets removed - or you run a 0 offset wheel with tundra front end to clear the 37s from the KDSS arm on the driver side. Then your scrub radius will go extremely positive with other clearance issues
I've been contemplating removing KDSS, running a front Tundra sway with links (since im running tundra front end), and no sway bar in the rear with a longer shock & spring combo.
But dang, I really do like the way my land cruiser drives on the road with kdss.
Sorry if you have listed it elsewhere but what exactly have you done to fit these? And the wheels used to get here would be helpful as well. I want to do a carbon copy of this. Thank you for showing it can be done!
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I put together a parts list for the body lift that I installed which I think is in the posts in this thread, the last missing piece was some small drop brackets for the radiator. I have the parts to make them, but have been totally swamped, and then forgot because I suck.
man I am always 5 inches shorter than the others... 
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
I'll preface by saying mine is specifically for 37x12.50r17 BFG ko2s. They book at 36.5" but on the truck measure 35.5" so essentially a slightly worn 36" tire. I'd imagine comparing to a 37" Toyo MT or GY MTR they would be larger and more complicated to fit with more aggressive sidewall lugs height/width. The KO2s are 15/32" tread depth new and most others of that size are 21/32" which accounts for ~.2" shorter than some 36" tires. I think I could fit a true 37 with some adjustments but who knows.
My recipe is:
Sensor lift front and rear
Method 314 17x7.5" +25
Timbren AOR in rear position for front control arms and custom chopped down cheap poly bumps for front of front control arms.
Timbren AOR in rear frame position of rear axle
1&1/2 hockey pucks bolted to bottom inside of coil perch on rear axle. (assists Timbrens on big whoops and hard bottom outs-does not limit compression travel off road when articulating one side at a time)
Remove front mudflaps
Remove screws securing front inner plastic wheel well liner, push forward and re-secure in existing holes, cut some plastic parts here & there. (there is a writeup on here for this in the "fitting full fat 35s" thread- I think)
Healthy chop of the front body mount
Cut plastic over pinch weld and cut/grind pinch weld and other metal below
Alignment specs:
Camber on the low side between +.5* to 0.0* preferable closer to 0.0
My caster is 2.5-2.6* I'd like it to be 3.5-3.7* but not sure how much further forward that would push the wheel and maybe create new contact.
I like many others kept seeing 37’s on lx’s and couldn’t resist. Actually had them on since beginning of June. 37x12.5r18 falken wildpeak r/t’s, wheels are +25 offset. I’ve been messing with spacers to see what it would be like with a 0 offset. May swap wheels in future.
Cut 2” off the front fenders, hammered the pinch weld as best I could. Cut the forward most part of the body mount and welded a cap back on. Then cut about an inch off the front of my sliders and welded a cap back on. Also cut the front bumper wings back to match the fender. Lastly to gain some caster I installed some ome uca’s
The rear was a little more involved as I hadn’t seen anyone cutting into their aftermarket bumpers. Seems like most build something to match after cutting the front of the rear bumper plastic and cutting/hammering the pinch weld back. So I cut the bumper plastic back, as well as cut the front of my dissent bumper back about 1.25”. Then cut and hammered back the pinch weld.
Some things I still plan to do aside from fixing anything that still may make contact. Fab some sort of thin aluminum cover for the ahc pump/reservoir area. Bought some bump stops from perry parts but I’ve been talking with Patrick about him making me some longer ones possibly in the future.
Maybe this will help convince others to cut up their bumpers!
Cut 2” off the front fenders, hammered the pinch weld as best I could. Cut the forward most part of the body mount and welded a cap back on. Then cut about an inch off the front of my sliders and welded a cap back on. Also cut the front bumper wings back to match the fender. Lastly to gain some caster I installed some ome uca’s
The rear was a little more involved as I hadn’t seen anyone cutting into their aftermarket bumpers. Seems like most build something to match after cutting the front of the rear bumper plastic and cutting/hammering the pinch weld back. So I cut the bumper plastic back, as well as cut the front of my dissent bumper back about 1.25”. Then cut and hammered back the pinch weld.
Some things I still plan to do aside from fixing anything that still may make contact. Fab some sort of thin aluminum cover for the ahc pump/reservoir area. Bought some bump stops from perry parts but I’ve been talking with Patrick about him making me some longer ones possibly in the future.
Maybe this will help convince others to cut up their bumpers!
Awesome work.
Are you looking to fit a body lift at all especially if you're looking to go more aggressive offsets?
For my rear bumper I bought some inexpensive rally flaps from Amazon and cut them to fit the bumper snap and then used the factory mud flap screws to mount them in the wheel well.
Rally Armor MF12-BAS-BLK Basic... Amazon product ASIN B00C3AIOTY
The perry bumpstops will work perfect if you also get the long-travel rear bumpstops. They still tuck real nice under compression. I had to roll the rear fenders with 0 offset. I spoke to Patrick and that was what he recommended for 37s for me. I’ve used them off road for about 4 months now and no issues.
Is everyone running 37s with stock gears????
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
4.88s here
I thought about it, for some reason I’d rather just cut stuff.
I’ve been trying to decide what to use as a liner. May give those a try.
I also “rolled” my rear fenders, with a big hammer! I know when I asked him about different length bumps he wanted me to send some pictures, haven’t had a chance.
I’ve got 4.88’s.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I know offset will impact this, but one reason I went with a body lift was to avoid dropping the rear bump stops when fully articulating the rear. Without a body lift my tire was hitting the inner wheel well with about an inch of travel left. Didn't want to mess with opening up the wheel well and all the interior plastic getting moved around.
I’m still on stock gearing. It’s fine. But you do feel the loss of power vs running 34/35 inch tires. I do plan on regearing very soon!
