A 200 is meant to have 37’s (8 Viewers)

[Jason Andrews]

I think the issue with limiting travel versus cutting is that you're cutting anyway with 37s (or at least I was). Granted wheel offset/tundra arms are variables in the mix, but I probably took 3" off the front fenders.

I guess I failed to mention I’ve been running 37’s since August. I hit cattle grates on my drive home on gravel at 70+mph that will fully bottom out most any suspension. Rides much better than stock. No fender cutting. I did however dremel/grind a very small amount from the inner pinch weld on the 10-2oclock position on the rear fenders before mounting them cause I got scared. Wish I wouldnt have.

 

[Jason Andrews]

I do have a slight rub on the front sway bar at full lock sometimes. Bothers me 0%. Bottom pic is in high mode.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I guess I failed to mention I’ve been running 37’s since August. I hit cattle grates on my drive home on gravel at 70+mph that will fully bottom out most any suspension. Rides much better than stock. No fender cutting. I did however dremel/grind a very small amount from the inner pinch weld on the 10-2oclock position on the rear fenders before mounting them cause I got scared. Wish I wouldnt have.
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yup, I recall your posts before! I just have trouble understanding how you’re clearing the fenders, pinch weld, etc, at full bump/lock when everyone else has had to cut significant sheet metal. I was hitting the washer reservoir before I was at full bump. I’d love to see a picture of you on bump stops for no other reason than to understand what I did wrong. It would be sweet if folks could fit 37s without any cutting!

 

[AnyMal]

I do have a slight rub on the front sway bar at full lock sometimes. Bothers me 0%. Bottom pic is in high mode.View attachment 3320839View attachment 3320841

Damn, bro came aggressive to hurt our feelings today. LOL
Black edition bastard.

 

[tbisaacs]

yup, I recall your posts before! I just have trouble understanding how you’re clearing the fenders, pinch weld, etc, at full bump/lock when everyone else has had to cut significant sheet metal. I was hitting the washer reservoir before I was at full bump. I’d love to see a picture of you on bump stops for no other reason than to understand what I did wrong. It would be sweet if folks could fit 37s without any cutting!

Would also be curious how close to 37" those KO2s are

 

[grinchy]

Would also be curious how close to 37" those KO2s are

I was wondering the same thing.

 

[linuxgod]

My concern would be up front. Unless you're hitting the bump stops in this photo, if you took this at speed and compressed the spring further you're going to smash up that fender. I've seen photos of that happening and it ain't pretty.

For me the rears are always a concern of mine as well since when towing I've had whoops and bumps on the highway which can hit the bump stops in the rear, so the rears have to tuck in or else have the bump stops extended, but right now my offset and wheel fits fine so if I could find a 37x11.5 that wouldn't be a concern. But mainly for me it's the front fender and then the whole KDSS thing...

Edit: this is the clearance issue that I'm worried about:

A 200 is meant to have 37’s

Next stop: Portal axles, fender cutting, and 40s.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[AnyMal]

Wait a minute, those eyebrows are silver... imposter!

 

[TeCKis300]

I agree its very possible to do 37s without much metal fender mods. Wheel offset is key. Especially as 37s are often full width. IMO, +25 is too low as that's going to eat fender, requiring limiting of up-travel, fender trimming, or both. Ideally offset is +30 - +35. A ~1" body lift will also go a long ways to for clearance all around and maximizing up-travel.

As an aside, the common go to +25 offset is often what limits running bigger tires as it can create more clearance issues than it solves.

UCAs often hurt more to fitting big tires as it will tend to push the front wheel center towards the body mount. It's better to get caster from maxing the LCA adjusters, pushing the tire forward. For 37s, may also need a bit more help, possibly SPCs or custom LCA arm or mount mods to create even more caster and clearance against the body mount.

The recipe in my mind for 37s, with least clearance mods, while maximizing travel.

• +30 - +35 offset wheels
• 1" body lift

Front axle

• BMC, and maybe fold back metal ridge
• Aftermarket UCA (not caster correction, but for inside tire clearance)
• Add droop travel via aftermarket shocks for LC, or AHC long travel for LX
• Mild bump limiter
• Put liners above fender lip
• Max LCA caster
• May need to trim stock bumper or use aftermarket bumper

Rear axle

• Add droop travel via aftermarket shocks for LC, or AHC long travel via E&E bracket for LX
• Mild bump limiter
• Panhard correction
• May need to trim stock bumper or use aftermarket bumper (note not all aftermarket metal bumpers provide enough clearance)
• May need to roll or trim folded fender lip depending on tire side profile aggressiveness

 

[TeCKis300]

My concern would be up front. Unless you're hitting the bump stops in this photo, if you took this at speed and compressed the spring further you're going to smash up that fender. I've seen photos of that happening and it ain't pretty.
View attachment 3320908
For me the rears are always a concern of mine as well since when towing I've had whoops and bumps on the highway which can hit the bump stops in the rear, so the rears have to tuck in or else have the bump stops extended, but right now my offset and wheel fits fine so if I could find a 37x11.5 that wouldn't be a concern. But mainly for me it's the front fender and then the whole KDSS thing...

Edit: this is the clearance issue that I'm worried about:

A 200 is meant to have 37’s

Next stop: Portal axles, fender cutting, and 40s.

forum.ih8mud.com

For real.

A couple data points of what +35 offset with a 35x12.5" tire looks like in worst case clearance. A 37x12.5 will need another 1" clearance in radius.

Front:

The tire will easily go 1-2" into the front fender without much bump limiting. Here's an example where I have it dumped for camping, and it probably still has another .5" of travel. Then consider that in a dynamic g-out, that the body mounts will compress bringing the body closer still.

Rear

Often rear clearance may look okay in an articulated situation. To your point, when it's a squared up compression, the rear tire will eat the metal fender. I'm just kissing mine enough that I rolled the fender.

DIY Fender Rolling

Hopefully this helps the next guy either fitting big tires or those with aggressive offsets. The 200-series has some pretty beefy fender lips so I'll start by saying what's here will buy limited more clearance. Real clearance may require cutting the fender lip or getting more aggressive. I'm...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[toofrigginswt]

I guess I failed to mention I’ve been running 37’s since August. I hit cattle grates on my drive home on gravel at 70+mph that will fully bottom out most any suspension. Rides much better than stock. No fender cutting. I did however dremel/grind a very small amount from the inner pinch weld on the 10-2oclock position on the rear fenders before mounting them cause I got scared. Wish I wouldnt have.
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That’s awesome! I wasn’t even able to keep my mud flaps for the rear yet yours are still intact. Are you running a skinnier 37? Or is it 37x12.5?

 

[Jason Andrews]

I've definitely had to cut the pinch weld in front as well as a very healthy hack of the front wheel well body mount.

Yes, they are 37x12.50 KO2 which measure 36.5" tall so a tad shorter than others that may measure 36.7" or 36.8" I have always thought Goodyear MTR's run quite a bit larger.

I've also upgraded both sets of bumps both front and rear. Up front I have Timbren AOR in the rear position and a custom poly one in front that I chopped down to an appropriate size. In "low" i can still slide a sheet of paper in between them and the LCA, but they are that close to being engaged. I have the rear Timbren AOR's on the frame bumps and I bolted 1&1/2 hockey pucks to the bottom of the coil perches for insurance. The factory bumps in the coil provide about 2" of deflection/compression unlike the factory frame bumps that provide maybe 1/4" if you are lucky. In the rear both the Timbrens and the coil bumps sit ~1/4" from engagement when in low. I was initially worried it would ride like crap, but I don't feel any negative feedback. When I put it in "sport" mode that feels like I'm riding on the bumps and is definitely annoying.

I haven't been able to get the front or rear tires to contact yet. The approach angle sucks on the 16+ so it's difficult to flex on a ramp etc in low or normal mode without front bumper contact. I've tried to test to see if one of the front tires tucked while turned would make fender contact and have yet to have any damage or hear any contact.

Yes, I still have my rear fender mud flaps although it does rub on them from visual inspection.

The way I see it overall is that if I lift it 1-1.5" and then have to limit uptravel 1-1.5" its no worse than stock. Now that I've made that work I can go and add 20mm of front strut spacers and the rear shock mount mods to get better than stock down travel. I don't even wheel- I'm building this rig to race Jeep 392's on the on-ramp from the mall to the gas station.

 

[AnyMal]

I don't even wheel

My main man! Post some pics of your timbrens etc please. Do the long travel mods and sensor lift ASAP. Need to show those jeeps how we bougie boys do things.

 

[Jason Andrews]

Sensor lift has been done. When I had 315/70, only a front sensor lift and stock bumps I did rub/bottom out on one side once on the highway at 80mph in the rear. Decided to do rear sensor lift for aesthetic reasons too.

Here is a photo of how the 37s sit in the rear wells on low. This was at the tire shop the first time I tried to mount them and needed to chop more from the front BM. Also why I decided to dremel/grind some of the pinch weld.

Rig is currently in the body shop since some dude ran a rented RV into it while I was in the hardware store. I don’t have any pics of the Timbrens.

 

[dubyahard]

So is there a source for body lift spacers?

 

[MTKID]

So is there a source for body lift spacers?

The spacers are the easy part. 4crawler.com

The radiator brackets are the more custom thing. But if you ask really nicely, you might be able to have a member make you a set.

 

[YellowJacket]

WHY NO BODY LIFT KITS!

PLEASE SOMEONE BUILD.

 

[linuxgod]

I've considered a body lift if I ever go taller, but then I'm going to have deal with the unsightly gaps between the body and my bumpers.

 

[MTKID]

I've considered a body lift if I ever go taller, but then I'm going to have deal with the unsightly gaps between the body and my bumpers.

That is a common concern I hear. That’s why I encourage starting with the body lift, before bumpers and sliders. Then some of the venders can offer their bumpers and sliders built for that 1” gap.
However, it seems everyone typically does bumpers & sliders and a modest tire size first, thinking they’ll never want more than a 35” tire. Then, later on, they are finally motivated to have something taller and those gaps are a valid concern

 

[AnyMal]

What are the biggest body lift caveats other than the screaming and cursing that it will obviously induce?
Which lines are impacted most? Is the steering linkage an issue?