99 miles to the new sty! (2 Viewers)

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Another question, getting my tank cleaned/sealed. I've heard that the sealent don't work that well as the new gas casues it to fail and then potentially cause addl carb probs. Does anyone have input on whether I should skip the tank sealant or not?
 
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Is the prefered product for coating floor pans with minimal rust POR 15? Any other recommendations?

floor rust.jpg
 
You’ll find lots of different opinions on this. I know I’ve already said this prior and I’m sure got some scowls at screens due to it but… facts are facts.
POR15 is marketed to folks trying to cut corners and they are handing you the torch to see your way down the dark path. Improperly prepped metal is never going to stay put and the corrosion will keep going.

If that were mine. And I didn’t want to strip it and go full blown and yet wanted to keep my floors from going further down the path… I would put some 80 grit paper on a DA and sand those ribs and flats and at least get some clean surfaces. 50/50 some water/phosphoric acid (ospho) and then Blow dry. Let it sit for day after and.Clean with Xylene. Then acquire some 2 part epoxy from your local sherwin Williams. Macropoxy 646. It is tintable but you need an industrial Sherwin with proper color tints. Roll on with a whiz wheel or paint with a brush.
Skipping prep and believing forums threads of years and years of bs is what I clean up for a living. I just charge more when I have to carve that garbage off.
 
Blastservices said:
You’ll find lots of different opinions on this. I know I’ve already said this prior and I’m sure got some scowls at screens due to it but… facts are facts.
POR15 is marketed to folks trying to cut corners and they are handing you the torch to see your way down the dark path. Improperly prepped metal is never going to stay put and the corrosion will keep going.

If that were mine. And I didn’t want to strip it and go full blown and yet wanted to keep my floors from going further down the path… I would put some 80 grit paper on a DA and sand those ribs and flats and at least get some clean surfaces. 50/50 some water/phosphoric acid (ospho) and then Blow dry. Let it sit for day after and.Clean with Xylene. Then acquire some 2 part epoxy from your local sherwin Williams. Macropoxy 646. It is tintable but you need an industrial Sherwin with proper color tints. Roll on with a whiz wheel or paint with a brush.
Skipping prep and believing forums threads of years and years of bs is what I clean up for a living. I just charge more when I have to carve that garbage off.
Click to expand...
Blaster, respect your answer...it's the different views that make this forum what it is...
411: I ospho'd my floors twice after sanding... cleaned up very well... gotta agree w you... gotta prep the metal...only other considerations for me would be the thread(s) suggesting patina preservation....

Tomba, wanted to add that is a very nice condition front right floor!..
 
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Blastservices said:
You’ll find lots of different opinions on this. I know I’ve already said this prior and I’m sure got some scowls at screens due to it but… facts are facts.
POR15 is marketed to folks trying to cut corners and they are handing you the torch to see your way down the dark path. Improperly prepped metal is never going to stay put and the corrosion will keep going.

If that were mine. And I didn’t want to strip it and go full blown and yet wanted to keep my floors from going further down the path… I would put some 80 grit paper on a DA and sand those ribs and flats and at least get some clean surfaces. 50/50 some water/phosphoric acid (ospho) and then Blow dry. Let it sit for day after and.Clean with Xylene. Then acquire some 2 part epoxy from your local sherwin Williams. Macropoxy 646. It is tintable but you need an industrial Sherwin with proper color tints. Roll on with a whiz wheel or paint with a brush.
Skipping prep and believing forums threads of years and years of bs is what I clean up for a living. I just charge more when I have to carve that garbage off.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I left that piece out but yes of course I was planning on preping the metal before laying down any paint. Does micropoxy 636 have zinc in it?
 
No zinc in Macropoxy 646. If you wanted a little more corrosion inhibitors you can use Epolon 2. Both of these are epoxy high solids primers that are very tough and very durable meant for way harsher climates than your average automotive epoxies. Wouldn’t expect much price difference between these and POR when you compare useable gallons.
 
Blastservices said:
You’ll find lots of different opinions on this. I know I’ve already said this prior and I’m sure got some scowls at screens due to it but… facts are facts.
POR15 is marketed to folks trying to cut corners and they are handing you the torch to see your way down the dark path. Improperly prepped metal is never going to stay put and the corrosion will keep going.

If that were mine. And I didn’t want to strip it and go full blown and yet wanted to keep my floors from going further down the path… I would put some 80 grit paper on a DA and sand those ribs and flats and at least get some clean surfaces. 50/50 some water/phosphoric acid (ospho) and then Blow dry. Let it sit for day after and.Clean with Xylene. Then acquire some 2 part epoxy from your local sherwin Williams. Macropoxy 646. It is tintable but you need an industrial Sherwin with proper color tints. Roll on with a whiz wheel or paint with a brush.
Skipping prep and believing forums threads of years and years of bs is what I clean up for a living. I just charge more when I have to carve that garbage off.
Click to expand...
I think you were channeling Jim on the “believe forum posts” rant, love it.

In the 510 club up here a local guy prepped his floors with care and sealed up with Por15, a couple of winters later the rust had migrated under the por and it came up in a sheet…he was shocked and started looking around. Long story short he ground OFF all the remaining por.

Now I don’t think the 510 floor pans are far off from the pig floors…unless you chemical treat them the rust is in the metal.

Just my local experience , YMMV
 
Blastservices said:
No zinc in Macropoxy 646. If you wanted a little more corrosion inhibitors you can use Epolon 2. Both of these are epoxy high solids primers that are very tough and very durable meant for way harsher climates than your average automotive epoxies. Wouldn’t expect much price difference between these and POR when you compare useable gallons.
Click to expand...
I apprecite the addl info on this. I'll check out Epolon 2.
Pigeaten said:
loved my 510, but did not hold up well after being hit by a semi
Click to expand...
hahaa I had a 69 510 too. Not sure if I'm off base here on that reference..

OG 510.jpg
 
Blastservices said:
You’ll find lots of different opinions on this. I know I’ve already said this prior and I’m sure got some scowls at screens due to it but… facts are facts.
POR15 is marketed to folks trying to cut corners and they are handing you the torch to see your way down the dark path. Improperly prepped metal is never going to stay put and the corrosion will keep going.

If that were mine. And I didn’t want to strip it and go full blown and yet wanted to keep my floors from going further down the path… I would put some 80 grit paper on a DA and sand those ribs and flats and at least get some clean surfaces. 50/50 some water/phosphoric acid (ospho) and then Blow dry. Let it sit for day after and.Clean with Xylene. Then acquire some 2 part epoxy from your local sherwin Williams. Macropoxy 646. It is tintable but you need an industrial Sherwin with proper color tints. Roll on with a whiz wheel or paint with a brush.
Skipping prep and believing forums threads of years and years of bs is what I clean up for a living. I just charge more when I have to carve that garbage off.
Click to expand...

Great post here - thanks for the metal prep info...
 
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