Builds 97 on 40s Expo Build (7 Viewers)

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I wish someone would lay out how to cut and reweld a fender, I need to do a bit but have to frame f reference at all most folks In massachusetts dont really run largewr than stock on thier caddys or prius

I first layed out the line I wanted to cut with some electrical tape. After that, it is up to you to how closely you can follow that line with a 4 or 4.5in cut off wheel on a grinder. The front is pretty strait forward after that. You just pie cut the inner fender, and push it up into the wheel well. For the rear after the step of cutting out your new wheel well I took an air chisel and separated the inner and outer pieces. Then as you can see in the picture I bent the inner part so it could be pushed up farther into the well, then drilled a bunch of holes in the quarter panel so it would be a lot easier to weld the two together. Doing it this way also means you end up with a lip, so your tire can get pushed even farther into the wheel well.
 
First dirt road trip!! To be honest I was slightly terrified something was just going to blow up, but nothing broke so I was happy. I got some flex shots showing how well the rear stuffs. Did 2.75" bump stop extension in the rear, and 1" in the front. Definitely need longer shocks though. Currently have a full OME 2.5 setup with a 1in body lift. I also talked will Cruiser Outfitters, and I will soon be shipped TG Longfields for the front, as well as a front locker and knuckle rebuild kit. ARB was having a sale that you got a free air compressor and tire repair kit when you buy a locker, so the plan is to sell the air compressor since I already have one to essencially make the front locker only $750. A lot, but not a terrible price for a selectable locker.

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looks like your making it happen, good deal.
 
Been on 40's for 4 years and bent 2 housings...only broken 1 birfield, the stock one with over 250k miles on it...I have longfields via trailgear and have had no issues yet....but then again I didn't regear so having little less gusto to give helps.


Well since the mall, took all the speed bumps out, you are safe :flipoff2:
 
Well since the mall, took all the speed bumps out, you are safe :flipoff2:
Your uncle Jerry called, he says it time for you to come back Easter Seals.
 
jerry died
I know. You know what I was getting at lol, just avoided a certain word that so many people seem to sh*t a chicken over anymore. Stupid PC BS .
 
I know. You know what I was getting at lol, just avoided a certain word that so many people seem to sh*t a chicken over anymore. Stupid PC BS .
Indeed, Sh*t a chicken over, now thats funny.
 
I first layed out the line I wanted to cut with some electrical tape. After that, it is up to you to how closely you can follow that line with a 4 or 4.5in cut off wheel on a grinder. The front is pretty strait forward after that. You just pie cut the inner fender, and push it up into the wheel well. For the rear after the step of cutting out your new wheel well I took an air chisel and separated the inner and outer pieces. Then as you can see in the picture I bent the inner part so it could be pushed up farther into the well, then drilled a bunch of holes in the quarter panel so it would be a lot easier to weld the two together. Doing it this way also means you end up with a lip, so your tire can get pushed even farther into the wheel well.
Im concerned about keeping the inner fender well intact ya dig? I want to make sure its still somewhat factory looking you got pics of your inner fender??
 
Since my parts from Cruiser Outfitters are on there way it was time to get my gears all ready to be shipped to Zuk. I found a great deal on a Nitro 5.29 gear package kit from Amazon for e locker equipped trucks. I talked to Zuk and he said he would swap in the correct bearings for the ARBs for an all in price of $700 for the parts needed. The housing is getting a full length truss, knuckle gussets, diff armor.

This is what it looked like ready for paint.
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Those tires stuff/tuck amazingly well.
They will angle in even more when the longer shock drops out the opposite side.


Now you wrote 17x9 with 3.5" BS correct?

Is this with stock controls arms all around?
 
Those tires stuff/tuck amazingly well.
They will angle in even more when the longer shock drops out the opposite side.


Now you wrote 17x9 with 3.5" BS correct?

Is this with stock controls arms all around?

Correct. Everything underneath is stock with the exception of the shocks, springs, front caster bushings.
 
Fast forward a little while and I have the front and rear axles back together (sorry no pics). Now I am working on getting the gears broken in. However I did do a run up Pikes Peak. The gears make quite a big difference being at altitude. Also seen to be getting considerably better gas mileage. Has improved from about 11mpg highway to 14mpg. Next up is getting a rear bumper built, as well as some odds and ends like core support chop, figuring out exhaust, and hopefully rock sliders soon. Need to decide what to do for a front bumper too.

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I did not hi steer it. Too expensive for me right now. Instead I did the Low range steering kit that has .25 DOM tubing. Then just painted it red.

the proportion of your 40" and your actual height cheat my eyes ..
 
Since my parts from Cruiser Outfitters are on there way it was time to get my gears all ready to be shipped to Zuk. I found a great deal on a Nitro 5.29 gear package kit from Amazon for e locker equipped trucks. I talked to Zuk and he said he would swap in the correct bearings for the ARBs for an all in price of $700 for the parts needed. The housing is getting a full length truss, knuckle gussets, diff armor.

This is what it looked like ready for paint.
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Great thread but uhh those welds on that truss are pretty sketchy looking...
 
Great thread but uhh those welds on that truss are pretty sketchy looking...

They're good. (I am the helper dad) The part your'e seeing on the front ended up a little rougher than we wanted. It's all burned in really well, we just didn't see the need to grind away on it. Sometimes it just takes a bit to get that thick metal hot enough to melt in really well. The OEM welds look kinda sketchy on first glance but they are good too.
 

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