94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other? (2 Viewers)

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I’m just getting an intermittent starting problem some days longer than others. I have a new battery, new cables, new fusible link and taken my starter out to autozone and it tested good. Only place that it can be now I think is the ignition switch. Sprayed some electric spray in the key hole and seems to be a bit better so I’m thinking that could be it. Think I’m going to try installing a starter relay and see if that works 🤔🤔
Definitely check the wiring into the ignition barrel. I had this issue on my 93 a few years back now and if i pushed the witing harness it would solve it. The wiring gets a bit dodgy over the years, this is what alot of owners ignore and assume its either the starter or the park neutral switch/plug in the fuseable link
 
Definitely check the wiring into the ignition barrel. I had this issue on my 93 a few years back now and if i pushed the witing harness it would solve it. The wiring gets a bit dodgy over the years, this is what alot of owners ignore and assume its either the starter or the park neutral switch/plug in the fuseable link
Thanks, I just a few days ago stop putting it off and installed a relay. First attempt start I got a click, got really upset tried second time fired right up. It seems to start up faster now 🤔🤔so far a week later doing great 👍👍think I might need to ground the starter on the firewall a bit better because of the first click I got. Havnt done it yet because it hasn’t happened again but might as well be safe than sorry 😂😂
 
Update to the original post. All FJ80's I've done with the ford solenoid addition are cranking and starting perfectly. No issues at all.
 
Update to the original post. All FJ80's I've done with the ford solenoid addition are cranking and starting perfectly. No issues at all.
I had my doubts to be honest that’s why I put off doing it for a few months but I’m done it now and love how it just starts right up and fast. I think I might go back and take some paint of the firewall to make a better ground, really think that’s why I got that damn click two times after doing this project. 🤔

28DACEF8-63BE-4415-A170-937DBA9A7F05.jpeg


B7557F3B-25CA-4977-AB84-E129ED2A34C6.jpeg
 
@Daffy94
Dang. That’s some massive red wire you got there. No need to go that big. Just to make sure you wired it up correctly, the large positive wire on the starter you left alone?
 
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@Daffy94
Dang. That’s some massive red wire you got there. No need to go that big. Just to make sure you wired it up correctly, the large positive wire on the starter you left alone?
I got new battery cables and ground wires from Mark on here. Great kit the cables are just a bit larger than the original but the protected covering makes it look a bit bigger I also ran it through some heater house to protect against and rubbing issues. I ran the red cable from the battery to left side of relay then reinstallEd the original battery cable from the right side to the starter. The switch wire is a 12 gauge wire. 🤔🤔🤔is that how it’s done?
 
Big positive cable to starter is left alone. This mod brings power directly from battery through the Ford solenoid to your original starter solenoid. Power supply from battery (12 gauge is fine with fuse) goes to left or right side of Ford Solenoid. Middle post is from the small wire on the starter solenoid which comes from your ignition switch. What's left is the other side of the Ford solenoid back to the Toyota starter solenoid. So cut the small wire going to the starter solenoid (about 5" or so from solenoid so you can make the splices). Bring the end from the ignition switch up to the middle post. Send the power from the side of the Ford Solenoid not used back to the other end of the cut wire at the starter solenoid.
Post #53 last paragraph explains as well.
 
Big positive cable to starter is left alone. This mod brings power directly from battery through the Ford solenoid to your original starter solenoid. Power supply from battery (12 gauge is fine with fuse) goes to left or right side of Ford Solenoid. Middle post is from the small wire on the starter solenoid which comes from your ignition switch. What's left is the other side of the Ford solenoid back to the Toyota starter solenoid. So cut the small wire going to the starter solenoid (about 5" or so from solenoid so you can make the splices). Bring the end from the ignition switch up to the middle post. Send the power from the side of the Ford Solenoid not used back to the other end of the cut wire at the starter solenoid.
Post #53 last paragraph explains as well.

this is the video I used to wire mine. Sounds like I did it totally different from how it’s done on here 😩
 
New ignition switch (84450-60180- EDIT - for my 1993. Apparently 8445060270 is correct for 1996) in December 2020 and zero hot start problems since (over a few Moab area trips and Death Valley). Before would always start cold. When hot might start or take 5-15 turns. (Prior problem was with good battery, good starter, good newer battery cables, fusible link, and grounds.)

I considerd this relay mod, but figure if the original ignition switch lasted 335,000 miles, I'd replace that before adding this relay fix. That said, this relay fix is a great alternative and this thread and Ignition switch replacement procedure. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ignition-switch-replacement-procedure.841286/ were very helpful.

Thanks!
 
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No too much to add here, but wanted to thank you all for the information as the issue seems to be resolved. Did want to share an added resource I found: a Male connector you can plug into the existing factory starter solenoid wiring without cutting the original wiring.


They come in packs of 5 so I have extras if anyone wants one. Shipping took a couple of weeks, which was faster than was estimated by the site.

Starter Hook ups.jpg
 
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No too much to add here, but wanted to thank you all for the information as the issue seems to be resolved. Did want to share an added resource I found: a Male connector you can plug into the existing factory starter solenoid wiring without cutting the original wiring.


They come in packs of 5 so I have extras if anyone wants one. Shipping took a couple of weeks, which was faster than was estimated by the site.

View attachment 2961183
Can I buy a male connector from ya? I can Venmo you😁
 
Shoot, sorry I just sold the FJ80 last month and sent the last connector off with it. I'll see if there is a way I can edit my post to reflect that. Not sure where to find that item now unfortunately
 
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jht3, that is the OEM plug into the starter. The odd part in the link from the post on 3/23/22, is an inline version of the connector on the starter that you can use to carry the factory wiring up to the relay without cutting the factory line.
 
jht3, that is the OEM plug into the starter. The odd part in the link from the post on 3/23/22, is an inline version of the connector on the starter that you can use to carry the factory wiring up to the relay without cutting the factory line.
is that not what i posted? the toyota part # for the Female side housing and terminal, and the sumitomo Male side housing and terminal?

15mins of searching didn't find any kits from the same vendor, other than Aliexpress. But you can piece the parts together to build a plug and play kit. Or buy the HuddExpo kill switch kit.
 
I may have overlooked it in the link you provided.

In this picture the factory connector is the one on the right, the one they are looking for is the one on the left.

You can avoid cutting the factory wire by purchasing one of each of these. The new one (on the right) goes into the starter the one on the left connects the factory ignition wiring up to the new solenoid.

Screenshot 2023-05-08 064956.png
 
Toyota PN to replace the connector and terminal from the ignition circuit to solenoid. The terminal loses its springiness over time. Being full of grease can push connection apart. A small price to pay to assure a solid connection.

Solenoid terminal with pigtail 82998-12480
Solenoid connector 90980-11400
 
I may have overlooked it in the link you provided.

In this picture the factory connector is the one on the right, the one they are looking for is the one on the left.

You can avoid cutting the factory wire by purchasing one of each of these. The new one (on the right) goes into the starter the one on the left connects the factory ignition wiring up to the new solenoid.

View attachment 3317542

Yup this is what I have been looking for but no luck so far. If anyone knows where to find the female end to run this inline please post it up.
 
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Can I buy a male connector from ya? I can Venmo you😁
Team - found some connectors…installed the painless kit….100% solved my random no start after full week of hot driving. Did 2100 miles from ATX to flagstaff very hot never once did it not start after long runs in the heat and inclines…new relays and new Denso starter didn’t fix it…
 
Team - found some connectors…installed the painless kit….100% solved my random no start after full week of hot driving. Did 2100 miles from ATX to flagstaff very hot never once did it not start after long runs in the heat and inclines…new relays and new Denso starter didn’t fix it…

Mine has been starting great too.

I think the solenoid connector has been overlooked till now.
 

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