94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other? (2 Viewers)

[MINO]

Thank you!

Although I have a reman Denso 280-0169 that will be going in (original starter, 165k miles), I am seriously considering doing this anyway. I know how to test how much voltage I am getting at the solenoid on crank but have read from people that even while getting battery voltage on that connector while disconnected, that number went way down when connected. How does one even measure that?

Even though in principle I would like to limit my modifications, I am thinking to do one of these options or the third one I read about splicing some wire into the existing connector-wire and leaving it aside as an emergency jumper. I'm just not ready to cut any wires yet!

I hate "adding" unnecessary components: One more complication - one more failure point. But this has more benefits than losses in my opinion.

I installed my extra solenoid without cutting wires. Get a set of 4.8mm spade connectors (male/female) and plug-n-play. Use a little dielectric grease and wrap with a good electric tape. Zip tie to secure and you're done. Standard 6.3mm/.25" spades can work with modification to the male spade.

 

[malteserunner]

Mine too. No cutting wires. If it fails, super simple to put back to stock.

FWIW, it hasn't skipped a beat since it was installed.

 

[jvazquez53]

I hate "adding" unnecessary components: One more complication - one more failure point. But this has more benefits than losses in my opinion.

I installed my extra solenoid without cutting wires. Get a set of 4.8mm spade connectors (male/female) and plug-n-play. Use a little dielectric grease and wrap with a good electric tape. Zip tie to secure and you're done. Standard 6.3mm/.25" spades can work with modification to the male spade.

Pictures please...

 

[jatree]

I hate "adding" unnecessary components: One more complication - one more failure point. But this has more benefits than losses in my opinion.

I installed my extra solenoid without cutting wires. Get a set of 4.8mm spade connectors (male/female) and plug-n-play. Use a little dielectric grease and wrap with a good electric tape. Zip tie to secure and you're done. Standard 6.3mm/.25" spades can work with modification to the male spade.

Alright I think between this bit of knowledge and @malteserunner 's post, I am going to do this.

I'm looking at the Painless Performance Starter Relay Kit since it seems to include most everything. However, I did note that terminal 30 going to battery positive should have fused power so going to use something like this In-line Fuse Holder - it supports up to a 30A fuse. That should be enough right?

 

[malteserunner]

@jatree there's not a lot of load on that circuit. The fuse mostly protects the actual wire, in case it wore, or got pinched, and shorted. I ran a 15A fuse.

 

[jvazquez53]

On my setup the wire that goes to the starter os 10 gauge.

 

[Daffy94]

Did it solve the problem

 

[MINO]

Did it solve the problem

2 years later and I haven’t “crank-no start” since.

 

[lp2k]

So, speaking from experience, my starter would just flat out quit on me.

I can tell you how I solved this annoying problem.

What was on my rig? My 1994 had a 2.0 Kwh World Auto (China) starter. It only was used for 15K miles and installed by PO around 2007-2009. I took it out a few months ago (yes, life got in the way and my rig/project just sat) and opened the plunger assembly and it was BLACK. I suspect this was causing the delay and even failure to start (which I would need someone to jump start me, or use a jump pack when ever I went to grocery store.)

I ended up replacing it with a beefy 2.2 Kwh starter (only can be found on 1993 FZJ80s as they are discontinued or hard to come by) 2nd pic.

I have not had an issue since and suspect I would not even have the problem even if I went with an OEM 2.0 Kwh starter still made and can be found around $175.

Pic below showing the black crud and I hit it with some electric contact cleaner and reassembled it, it does work a little better but I am going Mr. T from here on out. The difference can be felt when I start the truck, as it takes maybe 1-2 seconds versus the latter World Auto which still takes longer by around 3-5 seconds, but still fails to click at all after I cleaned and tested it.

 

[Daffy94]

2 years later and I haven’t “crank-no start” since.

Do you remember the starter relay part number was it a Ford relay many different types

 

[lp2k]

I bought it but never used it @Daffy94

I can sell you mine for $18 delivered, or $10 cash if you come and pick it up from me (34734)

PM me if interested, I’m near Orlando.

Thanks

 

[jvazquez53]

Those work, I had mine installed in 2008 and ever since I have not have any issues with the starter.

 

[MINO]

Do you remember the starter relay part number was it a Ford relay many different types

I just used the solenoid I had laying around: Amazon product ASIN B001FQL43U

 

[malteserunner]

I agree that this is adding another possible failure point. In turn, a lot of vehicles use a starter relay, as it takes the load off the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, etc.

I used a Bosch style relay, rather than a Ford solenoid, since I think the solenoid is overkill, and the Bosch relay requires less from the original switches and wiring.

If, in the future, the relay were to fail, it would be simple to bypass and diagnose.

Since this mod, the engine cranks instantly, every time, when the ignition switch hits start.

Still working perfectly, after nearly 4 years.

 

[Daffy94]

Still working perfectly, after nearly 4 years.

What was the part number of the relay was it a Ford heavy duty

 

[malteserunner]

What was the part number of the relay was it a Ford heavy duty

I just used a standard Bosch relay, not a solenoid.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I have a feeling this issue might be the root of my intermittent starting issue. I have also had the delayed experience but only by a fraction of a second - only long enough to make you second guess yourself. However, from time to time I get this horrible metal on metal noise as the engine is cranking (before it fires). When it happens I typically get a code 12 stored -this maybe a red herring.
I am starting to think that I am losing continuity on the trigger wire to the starter - just for a fraction of a second and that the noise is the starter motor trying to re-mesh with the flywheel.
Has anyone else experienced the graunching noise or are you only getting the delay crank..

 

[Daffy94]

I have a feeling this issue might be the root of my intermittent starting issue. I have also had the delayed experience but only by a fraction of a second - only long enough to make you second guess yourself. However, from time to time I get this horrible metal on metal noise as the engine is cranking (before it fires). When it happens I typically get a code 12 stored -this maybe a red herring.
I am starting to think that I am losing continuity on the trigger wire to the starter - just for a fraction of a second and that the noise is the starter motor trying to re-mesh with the flywheel.
Has anyone else experienced the graunching noise or are you only getting the delay crank..

I’m just getting an intermittent starting problem some days longer than others. I have a new battery, new cables, new fusible link and taken my starter out to autozone and it tested good. Only place that it can be now I think is the ignition switch. Sprayed some electric spray in the key hole and seems to be a bit better so I’m thinking that could be it. Think I’m going to try installing a starter relay and see if that works

 

[Irish Reiver]

I’m just getting an intermittent starting problem some days longer than others. I have a new battery, new cables, new fusible link and taken my starter out to autozone and it tested good. Only place that it can be now I think is the ignition switch. Sprayed some electric spray in the key hole and seems to be a bit better so I’m thinking that could be it. Think I’m going to try installing a starter relay and see if that works

I also thought it was my ignition switch but i have remote start capability and it happens using the remote start so definitely not the ignition switch for my situation.

 

[Daffy94]

I also thought it was my ignition switch but i have remote start capability and it happens using the remote start so definitely not the ignition switch for my situation.

Very interesting, mine doesn’t have remote start and I removed my imobilize and alarm beca it was old and useless. Now you got me sec guessing myself