That was what I was guessing!
His "mechanic" told him he had a cracked block...........
I hope there wasn't any damage running it low on oil to be a problem!
93 FZJ80 with problems (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kbill45
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That was what I was guessing!
His "mechanic" told him he had a cracked block...........
I hope there wasn't any damage running it low on oil to be a problem!
- Thread starter
- #23
Will just put it back together and see. At least I will be able to move it around without slinging oil until I can find another engine or it another home.
I have been helping the previous owner find another vehicle. She might have settled on one yesterday. She is a really nice person, someone you enjoy helping.
I have been helping the previous owner find another vehicle. She might have settled on one yesterday. She is a really nice person, someone you enjoy helping.
I'm about to dive into this myself. Replaced my oil about 500 miles ago and its already low. I know the leak is coming from the oil pump. I plan on making the tool used in the video to get the crank pulley out. Did you make a tool or find another way to get the pulley bolt loose? I'm also nervous about loosing the key way on the crank shaft into the oil pan. Hopefully mine will go as smooth as the video I shared but something tells me I won't be that lucky.
Did you get yours fixed?
The breaker bar strapped to the frame method worked for me. Bumped the starter (with the ignition wire disconnected) and it popped right loose. Be sure to use an impact socket.
- Thread starter
- #26
Stand by for update
I replaced mine this weekend. Our biggest issue was stripping the screws that hold the cover on. From what I have read tapping them with a hammer is the key to getting them loose (which we did but maybe not enough). I swear mine were put on with loctite. We broke a head off one of the bolts and had to use a heli-coil to put in a new screw but ended up stripping almost all of them. I hope you have better luck than we did. Luckily I had a friend that could get a hold of a torque wrench that went up to 300ft-lbs. We had to make the tool to get the pulley off. I'm sure pumping the starter would have been easier but mine was still in there really tight. I'm curious now if pumping the starter would have done the trick. Everything works great now and no oil is leaking.
I will say (which is very obvious) make sure when you put the radiator back in you tighten those hose clamps down TIGHT. Mine was leaking like crazy out of the upper radiator hose and the small hose on the top. Tighten them up last night and fixed the issue. Good luck.
I will say (which is very obvious) make sure when you put the radiator back in you tighten those hose clamps down TIGHT. Mine was leaking like crazy out of the upper radiator hose and the small hose on the top. Tighten them up last night and fixed the issue. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #28
OK
Removed fan, shroud, radiator etc. to access engine front.
Removed harmonic balancer/pulleys
Removed oil pump cover and found the problem. Not only was the gasket in pieces there was a groove worn in
the cover consistent with the poly/rubber ring on the balancer so deep that it left a small hole. I believe a
foreign had found its way in and dug its way out.
To avoid a lot of down time the groove was filled with JB Weld as a bandaid fix until the engine got checked.
Put everything back together and just snugged up the crank bolt with an impact to get the engine started and
see if the leak was fixed and see how the engine sounded.
Remove the coil and turned the engine over several revs to get oil up to the valve area. Filled the radiator and ps
reservoir and the engine started right up.
It was pretty noisy at first but quieted down considerably. Still has some tapping sound but no rod knock.
Has good oil pressure and runs cool and no oil leak.
Now there is no power steering. Got the front end up. Started the engine, Turned the steering wheel several times but did not hear any sound that is consistent with air in the system. Lowered the front end back down and still no ps. Now what? One mud member suggested that if the crank balancer bolt was not torqued to 305 lbs the ps might not work. This thing has a power steering system that is totally foreign to me. No box like the 2f.
Guess I will find an oil pump cover, go back in there, rent a torque wrench and try again.
Removed fan, shroud, radiator etc. to access engine front.
Removed harmonic balancer/pulleys
Removed oil pump cover and found the problem. Not only was the gasket in pieces there was a groove worn in
the cover consistent with the poly/rubber ring on the balancer so deep that it left a small hole. I believe a
foreign had found its way in and dug its way out.
To avoid a lot of down time the groove was filled with JB Weld as a bandaid fix until the engine got checked.
Put everything back together and just snugged up the crank bolt with an impact to get the engine started and
see if the leak was fixed and see how the engine sounded.
Remove the coil and turned the engine over several revs to get oil up to the valve area. Filled the radiator and ps
reservoir and the engine started right up.
It was pretty noisy at first but quieted down considerably. Still has some tapping sound but no rod knock.
Has good oil pressure and runs cool and no oil leak.
Now there is no power steering. Got the front end up. Started the engine, Turned the steering wheel several times but did not hear any sound that is consistent with air in the system. Lowered the front end back down and still no ps. Now what? One mud member suggested that if the crank balancer bolt was not torqued to 305 lbs the ps might not work. This thing has a power steering system that is totally foreign to me. No box like the 2f.
Guess I will find an oil pump cover, go back in there, rent a torque wrench and try again.
If you just tightened the crank bolt with a impact I bet that is your problem. 300 ft-lbs is a lot of torque. Keep us posted. I curious what you find. Hang in there.
davidp14
SILVER Star
I know it would be a pita to have to tourqe that HB down just to have to take it off again but I think it's worth it.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Oil pump and power steering drive gear is captured on the crank shaft by ONLY the torque of the crank nut. It must be torqued full tight. There is no keyway in that gear.
I ended up with one of these to achieve the proper torque. Spec is something like 305 so I set it to 300 (max) and then one more click.
3/4 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench
3/4 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench
- Thread starter
- #33
Well I was going back in there anyway to replace that oil pump cover if the oil slinging was cured and the engine was passable. I have built several high performance Chevrolet engines and 3 2F toy engines and never torqued a crank bolt. This is certainly a different animal.
There is a keyway on that crank.
There is a keyway on that crank.
The keyway is to index the HB only.
The drive gear for to PS and oil pump is tightened by the compression of the HB to the drive gear when you tighten the HB to 304 lb-ft
- Thread starter
- #36
OK! Cleared out the front and removed the hb. No damage to the the oil pump patch job so that problem seem to have been solved. Will now fab a specialty tool to secure the hb pulley and try to find a biga** torque wrench. If anyone knows where I can find a oil pump cover set me know. The patched one would probably be ok but while in there....
I would also replace the crank pulley seal while you are in there. I bought Mine from my local dealer because I was pressed on time. I probably over paid.
- Thread starter
- #38
The crank seal was replaced. Thanks
2fpower
SILVER Star
Yeah, I have one or two. As for torquing down the bolt, just go buy a harbor freight earthquake impact wrench.
