For anyone that's interested this is what a knuckle should look like. this is after a rebuild 5 years ago and thousands of miles most of them hard off road miles.
Builds '91 PZJ77 Money Pit in Flat White
- Thread starter RandyMarsh88
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Hello,
Welcome to the madness.
Chances are your front axle seals and bearings gave up the ghost.
It is possible that your rear axle seals and bearings need replacement as well.
When you repair the front axle, take the chance to thorw in new tie rods and steering knuckles.
The 1PZ is a good little engine with very good low rpm power. This is very handy off road.
The BEB issue affected early model 1HZ and 1HD engines.
Check the leaf springs for broken leafs and replace if necessary.
Juan
Welcome to the madness.
Chances are your front axle seals and bearings gave up the ghost.
It is possible that your rear axle seals and bearings need replacement as well.
When you repair the front axle, take the chance to thorw in new tie rods and steering knuckles.
The 1PZ is a good little engine with very good low rpm power. This is very handy off road.
The BEB issue affected early model 1HZ and 1HD engines.
Check the leaf springs for broken leafs and replace if necessary.
Juan
Gear oil is the worst smelling oil in my opinion haha. it is worth learning the different smells of things for sure though.How can you tell it's grease not oil ? can you smell it ? the gear oil well run right over the grease and drip onto the ground
The PO sent me pictures of the truck and stated that it was parked in the same spot for 6 week, there was a small puddle under each knuckle.
Grease does not drip, gear oil does.
90 weight gear has a distinct smell, as does diesel fuel. One need to learn these smells to help diagnose issues
Congratulations on your new ride.
There is a good PZJ77 build thread here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Good for some inspiration and ideas.
There is a good PZJ77 build thread here:
Builds - 1993 PZJ77 - The Evolution Continues
forum.ih8mud.com
Good for some inspiration and ideas.
- Thread starter
- #25
Tell me what I'm missing for a full fluid flush on this rig:
Transmission
Brake
Coolant
Oil
Diff
Transfer case
Power Steering
Anything else?
And which of these are easy enough for a novice mechanic?
Transmission
Brake
Coolant
Oil
Diff
Transfer case
Power Steering
Anything else?
And which of these are easy enough for a novice mechanic?
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Clutch fluid.
Before bleeding your brakes do a thorough inspection of the brake system to see if any of the soft hoses, calipers and/or cylinders need replacement, since any of those things will require brake bleeding afterwards. Also, if the brake lines on the front axle are like those on an LJ78 replacing the front brake pads requires disconnecting the calipers from the brake lines, which also means bleeding brakes.
Before bleeding your brakes do a thorough inspection of the brake system to see if any of the soft hoses, calipers and/or cylinders need replacement, since any of those things will require brake bleeding afterwards. Also, if the brake lines on the front axle are like those on an LJ78 replacing the front brake pads requires disconnecting the calipers from the brake lines, which also means bleeding brakes.
Hello,
Clutch fluid is missing on your list.
Oil changes are easy for a novice, provided you have the means to collect the used oils without direct skin exposure and send them to a proper disposal facility.
Coolant change involves "burping" the fluid after the change, something that needs some practice.
Brake and clutch fluid bleeding are a very tricky thing to do alone, and require some patience. Personally, I prefer to leave brake work to my mechanic for two reasons: it is a safety system that requires expert care, and DIY brake work can be a serious legal issue in my neck of the woods.
My suggestion? Do the oil changes by yourself. Leave the coolant/brake/clutch fluid to your mechanic and watch closely while it is done to learn.
Juan
Pretty much untrue. Only the 1HD T suffered bearing problems. Many of the engines are capable of well over 500000klm on the same internal components. A lot of Toyota diesels are shared by their truck and bus range. The 1HZ often reaches a million klms in the Coaster bus in Australia.
The rough shut down needs to be decided on whether its normal or something else. The 1HZ shuts down smoothly for a diesel, it may have something to with having 5cyls
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- Thread starter
- #29
Just a small update for now. The air filter box was the only obviously rusty part of my vehicle. I took it out, stripped the old paint, used chemicals to dissolve the rust and then painted it with rustoleum engine lacquer.
Before:
After:
It looks much better now. The air box lid is new, ordered from cruiserparts. The old lid was a bit too rusty for my taste. If anyone wants an old rusty air filter box lid, I'm happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping.
I'm waiting on fuel filters and a new air filter I ordered from Australia, as well as some lucasoil 75w90 gear oil I got a good deal on. Once that gets here, I'm going to flush the transmission and differentials and a good ol' fashioned oil change.
Before:
After:
It looks much better now. The air box lid is new, ordered from cruiserparts. The old lid was a bit too rusty for my taste. If anyone wants an old rusty air filter box lid, I'm happy to send it to you for the cost of shipping.
I'm waiting on fuel filters and a new air filter I ordered from Australia, as well as some lucasoil 75w90 gear oil I got a good deal on. Once that gets here, I'm going to flush the transmission and differentials and a good ol' fashioned oil change.
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Drain tcase first, always pull drain plugs first. If tcase is over full chances are high the seal between trans and tcase is shot. Common on old split tcases. If it is an automatic look for red tint in tcase gear oil, that also tells you the seal is bad.
Cheers
Cheers
I'm thinking you meant pull the fill plug first. It's the only way to know if the TC is over full and to make sure you can get oil back in.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #32
It's a manual. Same 75w90 gear oil for transfer case?
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Yes
Cheers
Cheers
I can tell you the 3B shudders when shutting down, so a 5 cyl probably does.
- Thread starter
- #35
Anywhere I can find the bolt torque specifications? It's not in the english owner's manual I found online...
Torque:
Transfer/trans - 27 ft.*lbf (37 N*m)
Diff - 36 ft-lbf
Transfer/trans - 27 ft.*lbf (37 N*m)
Diff - 36 ft-lbf
- Thread starter
- #37
I changed the oil in the transfer case and transmission over the weekend. As @SNLC recommended I started with the transfer case. The transfer case was overfull, probably a cup or so of gear oil drained out of the fill plug after removal. Other than that it looked pretty good. There was definitely some dark very fine particulate matter in there and some fine metal shavings on the magnet of the drain plug, but nothing overly concerning. I filled it with 75W90 lucas gear oil and moved on to the transmission.
I loosened the fill plug first, and much to my relief the transmission was overfull too. This time about two cups drained out of the transmission. Based on my limited understanding, if there were a gasket leak between the transmission and transfer case, you would expect high oil levels in the transfer case and low oil levels in the transmission right? It seems like maybe whoever last did the oil changes on the tranny and transfer was just a little overzealous with filling them back up?
The gear oil from the transmission looked good too.
My oil and Fuel filters just arrived in the mail yesterday, so oil and differential are next as well as replacing the fuel filters. Nothing crazy exciting yet, but I want to make sure I get all of this stuff taken care of before I go wild with mods.
I loosened the fill plug first, and much to my relief the transmission was overfull too. This time about two cups drained out of the transmission. Based on my limited understanding, if there were a gasket leak between the transmission and transfer case, you would expect high oil levels in the transfer case and low oil levels in the transmission right? It seems like maybe whoever last did the oil changes on the tranny and transfer was just a little overzealous with filling them back up?
The gear oil from the transmission looked good too.
My oil and Fuel filters just arrived in the mail yesterday, so oil and differential are next as well as replacing the fuel filters. Nothing crazy exciting yet, but I want to make sure I get all of this stuff taken care of before I go wild with mods.
theglobb
SILVER Star
This happens with me as well, every time I change the oil in my tcase and transmission they are both over full at the fill plug. I've never understood how fluid magically appears out of nowhere but nothing bad has happened from it yet. Maybe the Toyota gods are just blessing us with extra lubrication
- Thread starter
- #39
Recharged the A/C with R134a to 30 PSI. Blows nice and cold now. Waiting on an oil filter wrench. If anyone is wondering what oil filter wrench will fit the 1HZ or 1PZ oil filter, I ordered a 15 flute 100mm oil filter. According to onlineautoparts in Australia, that should fit the filter, and my measurements agree with that.
As a side note, my hood sets low relative to my fenders:
There are a couple rubber hood supports. Does anyone know which ones need to be replaced to have it sit normally?
As a side note, my hood sets low relative to my fenders:
There are a couple rubber hood supports. Does anyone know which ones need to be replaced to have it sit normally?
The one in the second picture is adjustable just adjust as needed
