Delete
Last edited:
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (3 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I used the f body oil pan on a swap about 12 years ago I also modified it for more driveshaft clearance it also doesn't have the mounting tabs for the starter wiring that goes across the front of the oil pan this was also used with truck style intake manifold. H3 pan has more clearance for the front driveshaft. This was also in a fj60 with lq4 nv4500 205 tcase .
Tommy
Tommy
Does the f body pan clear the differential/drive shaft at full stuff? Im at stock ride height.
My first pan was an F-body. It cracked after contacting the front diff when I hit a big dip in the road. (OME 2.5, Landtank 2.5" plates)
Last edited:
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
At stock ride height?
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
What pan do you have now at stock ride height?
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
My cheap holley 302-1 knockoff doesn't have these mounting tabs. Plenty of clearance, but I have had to come up with ways to support that portion of the harness. The new Holley 302-4 pan doesn't have these tabs either.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I've made a bracket that kinda replicates the same mounting for the wiring that uses the oil pan bolts but used studs and nuts instead of just using the oil pan bolts just as a precaution. Still using the gm plastic wire holder too.My cheap holley 302-1 knockoff doesn't have these mounting tabs. Plenty of clearance, but I have had to come up with ways to support that portion of the harness. The new Holley 302-4 pan doesn't have these tabs either.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I zip tied the plastic holder to the panhard mount support crossbar.
The only picture that I have of the area, before I zip tied it to the support cross bar...
The other thing is I might switch to GM transmission hard lines that cross over to the passenger side of the oil pan, which also need an oil pan tab for support.
That H3 pan is looking awfully good...
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Pretty sure it has a mounting boss for the transmission lines next swap I may use transmission hard lines maybe lolI zip tied the plastic holder to the panhard mount support crossbar.
The only picture that I have of the area, before I zip tied it to the support cross bar...
View attachment 3956412
The other thing is I might switch to GM transmission hard lines that cross over to the passenger side of the oil pan, which also need an oil pan tab for support.
That H3 pan is looking awfully good...
A notched truck pan.
Why are you looking to replace it?
I have to pull it to mess with the oil pump. If a factory non cut up serup would work i would do it now. But it seems no factory setups have a sump that will work.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I see no one responded. The O/D button isn't used with my 6L90e.
Looks like 4L80 has the following 7 positions: P (Park), R (Reverse), N (Neutral), OD (Overdrive), D (Drive/3rd gear), 2 (Second gear), and 1 (First gear).
This means you don't need to wire in the O/D switch as it is controlled by the gear shift lever.
Back to the oil pan.
My 302-1 knockoff has nice clearance. This is on the bump stops.
The bottom of the A/C compressor has the least clearance.
Remember, bump stops will compress, reducing clearance further...
As @tmxmotorsports mentioned as an option, I might design wiring harness support brackets instead, and put them on SendCutSend when I am done. I really like it looking stock, as if Toyota decided to put a LS motor in...not DIY.
Not a priority though.
I have a feeling the oem bump stops can compress quite a bit if they get hit pretty hard. My issue is mostly tie rod clearance at stock ride height.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
First off stock ride height is crazy I believe you will have to modify any oil pan you purchase might be easier to modify a non cast aluminum one .
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
These are more old photos.
All photos taken on bump stops.
Not a great picture but the relay rod appears to be fractionally forward of the sump when on the bump stops. This is also a BudBuilt relay rod, which is thicker than OEM.
302-1 knock off pan, which has a shorter sump (in length) than both the 302-2 or the 302-3.
The caveats since all swaps are different:
Engine mounted 1.25" forward of where Mark's 4WD puts the motor mounts. Engine is fractionally higher since frame is higher at the new location.
DeltaVS 3L arms, which moves the front axle 1" forward and corrects caster. Caster is 4° at ride height.
Adjustable panhard bar which centers the tires, which usually results in moving the axle towards the passenger side if you have a lift. This means under compression, the axle is further to the passenger side than stock.
I once hit a whoop-de-do hard enough to dent my exhaust that went over a rear upper control arm. No evidence of contact in the front.
The GM Muscle Car Oil Pan, AKA H3 Oil Pan, (Kit: 19212593, Pan Only: 12624621 ) is very similar to the 302-1, but I think the 302-1 has a rounder side profile, giving slightly more clearance to the front axle housing. On the other hand, the GM Muscle Car Oil pan has those all important tabs for the truck wiring harness and transmission lines..
GM Muscle Car Oil Pan. showing the same part number as the H3 pan.
All photos taken on bump stops.
Not a great picture but the relay rod appears to be fractionally forward of the sump when on the bump stops. This is also a BudBuilt relay rod, which is thicker than OEM.
302-1 knock off pan, which has a shorter sump (in length) than both the 302-2 or the 302-3.
The caveats since all swaps are different:
Engine mounted 1.25" forward of where Mark's 4WD puts the motor mounts. Engine is fractionally higher since frame is higher at the new location.
DeltaVS 3L arms, which moves the front axle 1" forward and corrects caster. Caster is 4° at ride height.
Adjustable panhard bar which centers the tires, which usually results in moving the axle towards the passenger side if you have a lift. This means under compression, the axle is further to the passenger side than stock.
I once hit a whoop-de-do hard enough to dent my exhaust that went over a rear upper control arm. No evidence of contact in the front.
The GM Muscle Car Oil Pan, AKA H3 Oil Pan, (Kit: 19212593, Pan Only: 12624621 ) is very similar to the 302-1, but I think the 302-1 has a rounder side profile, giving slightly more clearance to the front axle housing. On the other hand, the GM Muscle Car Oil pan has those all important tabs for the truck wiring harness and transmission lines..
GM Muscle Car Oil Pan. showing the same part number as the H3 pan.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I'll add that the h3 - muscle car pan doesn't have the oil level sensor provision if anyone wants or has that hooked up..
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
About the o/d button if you have tow/haul wiring I could see the button used for that would probably need a relay to make it function and longevity .I see no one responded. The O/D button isn't used with my 6L90e.
Looks like 4L80 has the following 7 positions: P (Park), R (Reverse), N (Neutral), OD (Overdrive), D (Drive/3rd gear), 2 (Second gear), and 1 (First gear).
This means you don't need to wire in the O/D switch as it is controlled by the gear shift lever.
Back to the oil pan.
My 302-1 knockoff has nice clearance. This is on the bump stops.
View attachment 3956540
The bottom of the A/C compressor has the least clearance.
View attachment 3956541
Remember, bump stops will compress, reducing clearance further...
As @tmxmotorsports mentioned as an option, I might design wiring harness support brackets instead, and put them on SendCutSend when I am done. I really like it looking stock, as if Toyota decided to put a LS motor in...not DIY.
That was my thought but i also like the idea of the tow/haul mode being my base tune lol
