Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (24 Viewers)

[NeverFinis]

Is that a 255lph by any chance I’m trying to find the specs, no luck. I’m at work so it’s hard as well.

Hard to find specs specific to that Denso since they don't give specs. There are tests for the Supra MKIV Denso pump, but not much else out there. There is a substitute Carter pump for that Denso that is rated for a minimum of 40 GPH (151 LPH).

I did find the 2003-2004 Toyota Tundra/Sequoia Fuel Pump: 951-0017.

An alternate to the Denso 951-0017, AutoBest F4251, is rated between 50 to 60 GPH (190 - 227 LPH).

AutoBest F4251 says it fits our vehicle as well as many other models, including models with the 4.7L V8.

Fits Vehicles

• Toyota Tundra (2000-2004)
• Toyota Supra (1993-1998)
• Toyota Sequoia (2001-2003)
• Toyota Previa (1994-1997)
• Toyota Land Cruiser (1993-2007)
• Lexus SC400 (1996-2000)
• Lexus SC300 (1992-2000)
• Lexus LX470 (1998-2007)
• Lexus LX450 (1996-1997)
• Lexus IS300 (2001-2004)
• Lexus GS400 (1998-2000)
• Lexus GS300 (1993-2000)

I updated my original post to include the Denso 951-0017 for the 2003-2004 Tundra/Sequoia

 

[FlyinFaded]

Hard to find specs specific to that Denso since they don't give specs. There are tests for the Supra MKIV Denso pump, but not much else out there. There is a substitute Carter pump for that Denso that is rated for a minimum of 40 GPH (151 LPH).

I did find the 2003-2004 Toyota Tundra/Sequoia Fuel Pump: 951-0017.

An alternate to the Denso 951-0017, AutoBest F4251, is rated between 50 to 60 GPH (190 - 227 LPH).

AutoBest F4251 says it fits our vehicle as well as many other models, including models with the 4.7L V8.

Fits Vehicles

• Toyota Tundra (2000-2004)
• Toyota Supra (1993-1998)
• Toyota Sequoia (2001-2003)
• Toyota Previa (1994-1997)
• Toyota Land Cruiser (1993-2007)
• Lexus SC400 (1996-2000)
• Lexus SC300 (1992-2000)
• Lexus LX470 (1998-2007)
• Lexus LX450 (1996-1997)
• Lexus IS300 (2001-2004)
• Lexus GS400 (1998-2000)
• Lexus GS300 (1993-2000)

I updated my original post to include the Denso 951-0017 for the 2003-2004 Tundra/Sequoia

I bought the 951-0017 fuel pump, I will update once my swap is done and let you all know how it goes/ how the install goes as well. I imagine it will be fine.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Hard to find specs specific to that Denso since they don't give specs. There are tests for the Supra MKIV Denso pump, but not much else out there. There is a substitute Carter pump for that Denso that is rated for a minimum of 40 GPH (151 LPH).

I did find the 2003-2004 Toyota Tundra/Sequoia Fuel Pump: 951-0017.

An alternate to the Denso 951-0017, AutoBest F4251, is rated between 50 to 60 GPH (190 - 227 LPH).

AutoBest F4251 says it fits our vehicle as well as many other models, including models with the 4.7L V8.

Fits Vehicles

• Toyota Tundra (2000-2004)
• Toyota Supra (1993-1998)
• Toyota Sequoia (2001-2003)
• Toyota Previa (1994-1997)
• Toyota Land Cruiser (1993-2007)
• Lexus SC400 (1996-2000)
• Lexus SC300 (1992-2000)
• Lexus LX470 (1998-2007)
• Lexus LX450 (1996-1997)
• Lexus IS300 (2001-2004)
• Lexus GS400 (1998-2000)
• Lexus GS300 (1993-2000)

I updated my original post to include the Denso 951-0017 for the 2003-2004 Tundra/Sequoia

I’ve been reading and I see some guys talking about fuel filter issues with the lq4 swap. Something about a corvette fuel filter or a fuel filter on the fuel rails? Is this something that I’m going to run into and need for my swap?

 

[NeverFinis]

I’ve been reading and I see some guys talking about fuel filter issues with the lq4 swap. Something about a corvette fuel filter or a fuel filter on the fuel rails? Is this something that I’m going to run into and need for my swap?

You will need to have fuel pressure about 58 psi for ls motors. Corvettes had a combination fuel pressure regulator and a fuel filter. It is a cheap way to do both, and it is what many use.

 

[FlyinFaded]

You will need to have fuel pressure about 58 psi for ls motors. Corvettes had a combination fuel pressure regulator and a fuel filter. It is a cheap way to do both, and it is what many use.

View attachment 3927615

Ok thank you. So what ends up happening with the regulator that’s on the driver side rail if you use this instead? I do like this approach so we aren’t plumbing a new filter somewhere else.

 

[NeverFinis]

Ok thank you. So what ends up happening with the regulator that’s on the driver side rail if you use this instead? I do like this approach so we aren’t plumbing a new filter somewhere else.

My L96 doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator, which is why I went with the Corvette pressure/filter. You can continue to use your built in one, and just add an inline filter.

 

[FlyinFaded]

My L96 doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator, which is why I went with the Corvette pressure/filter. You can continue to use your built in one, and just add an inline filter.

yea, the lq4 have a regulator on the fuel rail on the driver side. hmm maybe i can still add a filter under the hood by the master cylinder so I am not cutting fuel lines. Hmmmmm...more digging i guess. Dont know the best way to do this.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Well probably stripped my marks adapter. What torque did y’all use to mount the t-case to marks adapter. Guess I should’ve just snugged it up. I’m embarrassed to tell you want torque I tried. But let’s say 27 foot pounds is too much. Figure if it was good enough for the t-case assembly it would be good to mount it.

Curious which holes were you heli-coiling the just the ones for the adapter or did you do need to do the ones for the crossmember mount on the bottom too? I am in prime position with my build to do this at the moment. And i just happened to come across this issue.

 

[NeverFinis]

Curious which holes were you heli-coiling the just the ones for the adapter or did you do need to do the ones for the crossmember mount on the bottom too? I am in prime position with my build to do this at the moment. And i just happened to come across this issue.

I think one has to be very careful torquing to Mark's adapter or using their provided socket head cap screws rather than flanged bolts. You will also need to reduce torque if using Anti Seize.

For Mark's adapter to the GM transmission, I used the GM flanged bolts that originally bolted the 2wd GM tail housing to the transmission. These are flanged bolts.

For Mark's adapter to the Toyota t-case, I used Toyota bolts where possible. I think there is one location that has to be a socket head cap screw.

Toss the remaining socket head cap screws....

Edited to add...I used the Mark's 6l80/90 adapter...which might have different issues from the 4L80e adapter..

 

[FlyinFaded]

SUM G9080 is my weapon of choice

So glad I came across this. Was trying to figure out what I needed. Thought I was gonna need block huggers using your mounts but glad to know I won’t.

 

[Tinkertoy]

I have brought this up here before and still have not solved it. LS Engines run hotter than the 1FZ's. I have a L92 6.2L and also had a L96 6.0 in this rig. (Don't ask why I had 2.) I live near Seattle so mountain passes are a thing when you go out. So is 80+ Degrees and tons of traffic. I have run the original Radiator and now a 4 row aluminum radiator. Thermostats 160 and 190 both. I have had an oil cooler and trans cooler. Originally I had the Derale E fans and on the 6.2 I have another brand that do not seem to move as much air. So all of that...here are my questions:

1) How are you keeping your rig cool? Withouth AC...in traffic..this past weekend I saw temps hit 239 before I shut it all down. I am using a OBDII tool to read the details.
2) I Dynomat lined my interior yet I still get a lot of heat into the cab from the engine. What eles have you guys done? I even lined the trans tunnel underneath. I didn't do the entire firewall...maybe I need to go back and do that as well.

I am not expecting a nice ride that I can sip tea with my pinky up, but I am pretty sure I am still struggling more than I should with this. I can't be the only one.

My setup:
1997 triple locked LX 450
Radiator: Amazon.com: KUUHLERSAT Performance Aluminum Radiator Compatible with 1993-1997 Toyota Lexus Land Cruiser LX450 4.5L, 4 Row Radiator : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2MSL135 with 2 e fans.
2007 GMC Yukon Gen IV 6.2L
6l90 Trans
My IAT runs 60+ above ambient temp once warmed up. No airbox...though when I had one...it would get heat soaked.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Mechanical fan with fan shroud

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Do you have a couple pictures of the engine bay in a few different angles are you running a aftermarket front bumper what tire size?

 

[Iggmon]

What's the CFM of the fans you're running now/used to run?

 

[White Stripe]

I have brought this up here before and still have not solved it. LS Engines run hotter than the 1FZ's. I have a L92 6.2L and also had a L96 6.0 in this rig. (Don't ask why I had 2.) I live near Seattle so mountain passes are a thing when you go out. So is 80+ Degrees and tons of traffic. I have run the original Radiator and now a 4 row aluminum radiator. Thermostats 160 and 190 both. I have had an oil cooler and trans cooler. Originally I had the Derale E fans and on the 6.2 I have another brand that do not seem to move as much air. So all of that...here are my questions:

1) How are you keeping your rig cool? Withouth AC...in traffic..this past weekend I saw temps hit 239 before I shut it all down. I am using a OBDII tool to read the details.
2) I Dynomat lined my interior yet I still get a lot of heat into the cab from the engine. What eles have you guys done? I even lined the trans tunnel underneath. I didn't do the entire firewall...maybe I need to go back and do that as well.

I am not expecting a nice ride that I can sip tea with my pinky up, but I am pretty sure I am still struggling more than I should with this. I can't be the only one.

My setup:
1997 triple locked LX 450
Radiator: Amazon.com: KUUHLERSAT Performance Aluminum Radiator Compatible with 1993-1997 Toyota Lexus Land Cruiser LX450 4.5L, 4 Row Radiator : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2MSL135 with 2 e fans.
2007 GMC Yukon Gen IV 6.2L
6l90 Trans
My IAT runs 60+ above ambient temp once warmed up. No airbox...though when I had one...it would get heat soaked.

I have a similar radiator with efans. I never got that warm unless I'm towing.

 

[NCFJ]

I run Ron Davis radiators with twin Spal fans and shroud. Anything over 35 -40MPH and the fans kick off. No overheating problems.
Indeed, they are not cheap, but neither are the radiator packages I am provided for that price. Guaranteed by a guy named Ron Davis in AZ.
I ship trucks all over the country, last thing I want to do is handle a bad radiator from here. That is why I go with RD. It is cheaper to buy a quality radiator from the start. Takes some time to swap out a radiator if there is a problem.
I hear it all the time how guys can get two radiators for that price. Yet they still have cooling issues.

You don't have something dumb like the steam ports dumping into the water pump do you? Assuming you have good air flow etc. Proper fan/shroud set up is a big factor as well. Might want to use a vacuum set up when filling the cooling system. It sucks the system down to the point the radiator hoses collapse. Open a valve and it will suck coolant into the system. Goal is no air pockets. If the vacuum tool does not hold vacuum, you have leaks.

 

[FlyinFaded]

I run Ron Davis radiators with twin Spal fans and shroud. Anything over 35 -40MPH and the fans kick off. No overheating problems.
Indeed, they are not cheap, but neither are the radiator packages I am provided for that price. Guaranteed by a guy named Ron Davis in AZ.
I ship trucks all over the country, last thing I want to do is handle a bad radiator from here. That is why I go with RD. It is cheaper to buy a quality radiator from the start. Takes some time to swap out a radiator if there is a problem.
I hear it all the time how guys can get two radiators for that price. Yet they still have cooling issues.

You don't have something dumb like the steam ports dumping into the water pump do you? Assuming you have good air flow etc. Proper fan/shroud set up is a big factor as well. Might want to use a vacuum set up when filling the cooling system. It sucks the system down to the point the radiator hoses collapse. Open a valve and it will suck coolant into the system. Goal is no air pockets. If the vacuum tool does not hold vacuum, you have leaks.

Does anyone have any experience with the Radiator and electric fan setup offered by Mosley Motors? 80 Series LS Radiator — MOSLEY MOTORS - https://www.mosleymotors.com/ls-radiator/80-series-ls-radiator

 

[NeverFinis]

I am using a mechanical fan (Hayden 2980 + GMC 2500 Savana fan) with a Ron Davis Radiator.

I have yet to run the truck on a extremely hot day, but so far the worst I have seen is 207°C in stop and go traffic. Most of the time it is at 190-200°C.

Be careful using more radiator cores than necessary as it adds resistance to air flow. This impacts electric fans more than mechanical fans. Electric Fans CFM drops dramatically as resistance increases.

From Summit Racing:

 

[tmxmotorsports]

X3 on ron davis radiator last swap I did went to Phoenix AZ I also used gm fan clutch fan and custom fan shroud. I personally prefer mechanical fan with fan shroud. Finishing up a swap now with a ebay or Amazon radiator with two 10 inch fans of I don't know what origin that the customer supplied radiator hoses are two piece witch I hate Ron davis radiator can be made to fit stock 1fz size or ls . Like what @NCFJ mentioned are you sure everything is correct this is also why I asked for pictures of your engine bay but no pictures yet.....

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Have 2 more swaps on the books both will get ron davis radiator with mechanical fan.