Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (26 Viewers)
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Well that's different
Hey y'all, still mentally planning my 5.3 swap into 93 fzj80. If someone has a spare moment to answer a few questions I've been mulling over that would be awesome!
1. I've decided that I probably want to get a 4L80 trans, as I want the robustness, longevity and I may try to make more power in the future (future midlife crisis prep) Q: how difficult is it to pair up 5.3 + 4L80? Is it as simple as a spacer and different flexplate? Marks adapter + 2WD transmission I assume? Do I have to modify my driveshaft?
2. DBC vs DBW? Initially was leaning cable, but it seems wire is more common and less finiky for gen 3 vortecs. Can I possibly wire my stock cruise to the gym ecu or do I have to have some aftermarket module on the dash.
3. PSI harness vs stock modification: initially was leaning PSI but found some guys on YouTube saying it's really not that difficult tomodify the GM harness.
Thanks for any info guys
1. I've decided that I probably want to get a 4L80 trans, as I want the robustness, longevity and I may try to make more power in the future (future midlife crisis prep) Q: how difficult is it to pair up 5.3 + 4L80? Is it as simple as a spacer and different flexplate? Marks adapter + 2WD transmission I assume? Do I have to modify my driveshaft?
2. DBC vs DBW? Initially was leaning cable, but it seems wire is more common and less finiky for gen 3 vortecs. Can I possibly wire my stock cruise to the gym ecu or do I have to have some aftermarket module on the dash.
3. PSI harness vs stock modification: initially was leaning PSI but found some guys on YouTube saying it's really not that difficult tomodify the GM harness.
Thanks for any info guys
Lots of info on the LS sites if you google 5.3+4l80. A 4L80E will bolt up but its not plug and play, You'll need a flex plate, torque converter, plug adapter. You'll also have to reprogram the ecm. For your driveshaft it depends on if the adapter places your T-case back in the factory location. You probably only have to worry about the front driveshaft, like a skinner driveshaft to clear the trans.. some of the 6.0 swap guys on should be able to chime in on that. But kind of a ballpark idea what you'll need.
I haven't dove into the cruise yet on mine nor have I done any research..
Again, there's a lot of info from the LS guys and youtube to modify the factory GM harness. They show you exactly what you have to do. Depends on if you want to do the work or go aftermarket. I run a Holley Terminator Xmax. There's also sites that sell ls swap harness already for not that much. Don't forget you still need to get the ecm security flashed.
I think so.. I can't remember but it's this one Denso Supra Fuel Pump 950-0155 that I used.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Thanks.
For future reference for others.
Supra MK IV Fuel Pump:
- Old Denso number: 195130-1020
- New Denso number: 195130-1270
- Denso kit w/pump number: 950-0155
- Toyota number: 23221-46110
- Kyosan number: E3000-146825
4.7L V8 4Runner Fuel Pump:
- Denso 950-0226
4,7L V8 Tundra/Sequoia Fuel Pump:
- Denso 951-0017
Edited to add the V8 4Runner pump
Last edited:
4l80, blackbox, dbw would be my choice from those.
I did a 6.0/6l90/blackbox, dbw, and Holley terminator. In retrospect, the aftermarket support just isn’t quite there for the 6l90, yet. Not many people are using them in 4x4s yet, so the 4l80 is probably a better choice unless you spend a ton of time in the highway commuting(which then wouldn’t do a blackbox either)
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
What is specifically lacking in aftermarket support for a 6L90e that you need?
I mean, I wouldn't choose any other transmission....
Holley terminator X has very limited support in comparison to what tables are available for the 4l80. When I built mine, the only other option was the oem computer. I planned on Flexfuel and have a billet7875 for it, so I really wanted to get away from HPTuners.
Expense and added complexity of a CAN controlled trans when relating to cruise control, reverse lights, tap shifter. Parts are less likely to be found “on the shelf” than the 4l80 or even the 6l80, but hopefully that gets better with time.
I’m acquiring parts for my lq4 4l80 swap. I keep seeing talk of this trailblazer cable. Do you know what year I need to purchase for it a part number? I haven’t found that listed or I have missed it.
Also this may be a stupid question. I’m getting a harness made and a computer from spear tech. Is a new fuse box required for this project or can we just use the Toyota one? This is a new question I’ve come up with since reading through this thread. First time doing something like this
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80 series DBW pedal mounts finally ready for sale.. works with C10 pedal for Gen3, and Corvette pedal for Gen 4/5 or Holley
Cool - where do I find it? I've never been happy with what I put together.
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I will have them on the website next week!
This is my old 91. Got it for almost nothing, and it’s my experiment and do anything truck.
I swapped an h42 in it, and just recently got an h55f, going in in a couple weeks. I want to put a sbc in it, and run some sort of efi either sniper or fitech. Found the marks adapter where you don’t have to relocate the trans, gonna try and do it as simple as possible, I already have a 350 in a vette that I’ll use. Anyone got a sbc and manual 80? And tips or thoughts? And no I don’t want to LS, this is just a fun side project.
I swapped an h42 in it, and just recently got an h55f, going in in a couple weeks. I want to put a sbc in it, and run some sort of efi either sniper or fitech. Found the marks adapter where you don’t have to relocate the trans, gonna try and do it as simple as possible, I already have a 350 in a vette that I’ll use. Anyone got a sbc and manual 80? And tips or thoughts? And no I don’t want to LS, this is just a fun side project.
Ok, looking for some help with my fuel pump relay.
Background - 2007 Gen3 5.3L mostly stock. I used a PSI Conversions harness on it, which has the fuel pump relay already set up. I completed the swap in 2021, and have about 20K miles on it. It's been great.
Last fall I had a no-start problem in the parking lot of a shop. I pulled the return line off the fuel filter and saw that I wasn't getting any fuel. Checked the fuse, swapped in a new relay and it started. Figured it was a bad relay, so I tossed it and moved on.
Then about two weeks ago had another no-start, and again no fuel. Checked fuses, swapped another new relay - no joy. Waited 3 hours for a ride on the back of a AAA truck.
I figured maybe it was the fuel pump - probably original with 285K on it - so ordered a new one. But when I finally got to check it out today I found that the pump ohmed out ok, and there was no power at the harness when I turned the key on and cranked.
So back to double check the fuse & relay. I bench tested the relay - audible click & continuity across 30/87 when I connect the battery across 85/86. So the relay seems to be good.
Check the socket. There's power to terminal 30, and terminal 87 has continuity to the power pin on the harness back at the pump. One of 85 or 86 has continuity to ground and the other shows 12V when you turn the key on.
But the relay didn't turn on when it's in the socket and you turn the key on. No click, no voltage on terminal 87.
There was voltage on one of the 85/86 pins, but this was after the key had been on for awhile. I didn't realize at that point that the pump is only supposed to run for a few seconds to build up pressure before the engine starts. So I checked the amps across pins 85, 86 - 0.09 mA, definitely not enough to work the relay.
Did some more reading and figured out the bit about the pump only running for a few seconds when you turn the key on. So figured I'd check the amps when the key is first turned on - and promptly blew the milliamp fuse in my meter. Switched to the 10A limit and tried again and briefly saw about 2A. And yes, I've since learned that's not a good thing to do on an ECM circuit.
But, I saw plenty of current to trigger a relay. So I put the relay back in and cranked it again - got the click. Plugged the fuel pump back in and it started. Drove around the block, stopped and started it a few times. No problem.
But WTF is going on? The relay is clearly good. I figure the relay last fall was probably good also. Wish I had tested it rather then just tossing it. But occasionally the ECM doesn't trigger the fuel pump relay. And then it randomly starts working again.
Any ideas?
Background - 2007 Gen3 5.3L mostly stock. I used a PSI Conversions harness on it, which has the fuel pump relay already set up. I completed the swap in 2021, and have about 20K miles on it. It's been great.
Last fall I had a no-start problem in the parking lot of a shop. I pulled the return line off the fuel filter and saw that I wasn't getting any fuel. Checked the fuse, swapped in a new relay and it started. Figured it was a bad relay, so I tossed it and moved on.
Then about two weeks ago had another no-start, and again no fuel. Checked fuses, swapped another new relay - no joy. Waited 3 hours for a ride on the back of a AAA truck.
I figured maybe it was the fuel pump - probably original with 285K on it - so ordered a new one. But when I finally got to check it out today I found that the pump ohmed out ok, and there was no power at the harness when I turned the key on and cranked.
So back to double check the fuse & relay. I bench tested the relay - audible click & continuity across 30/87 when I connect the battery across 85/86. So the relay seems to be good.
Check the socket. There's power to terminal 30, and terminal 87 has continuity to the power pin on the harness back at the pump. One of 85 or 86 has continuity to ground and the other shows 12V when you turn the key on.
But the relay didn't turn on when it's in the socket and you turn the key on. No click, no voltage on terminal 87.
There was voltage on one of the 85/86 pins, but this was after the key had been on for awhile. I didn't realize at that point that the pump is only supposed to run for a few seconds to build up pressure before the engine starts. So I checked the amps across pins 85, 86 - 0.09 mA, definitely not enough to work the relay.
Did some more reading and figured out the bit about the pump only running for a few seconds when you turn the key on. So figured I'd check the amps when the key is first turned on - and promptly blew the milliamp fuse in my meter. Switched to the 10A limit and tried again and briefly saw about 2A. And yes, I've since learned that's not a good thing to do on an ECM circuit.
But, I saw plenty of current to trigger a relay. So I put the relay back in and cranked it again - got the click. Plugged the fuel pump back in and it started. Drove around the block, stopped and started it a few times. No problem.
But WTF is going on? The relay is clearly good. I figure the relay last fall was probably good also. Wish I had tested it rather then just tossing it. But occasionally the ECM doesn't trigger the fuel pump relay. And then it randomly starts working again.
Any ideas?
What kind of fuse box are you using? What kind of relay box are you using? Sounds like you have a bad connection.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I am assuming no start = cranks but doesn't start.
I can hear my fuel pump prime after turning the key to ON.
Listen for yours.If the fuel pump isn't running after priming, make sure your ECM can see the cam and crank signals. Check your fuel filter. Check all your grounds. Check all the wiring.
Yes, cranks fine but no start.I am assuming no start = cranks but doesn't start.
I can hear my fuel pump prime after turning the key to ON.
If the fuel pump isn't running after priming, make sure your ECM can see the cam and crank signals. Check your fuel filter. Check all your grounds. Check all the wiring.
I've never been able to hear the fuel pump. Bad ears I guess.
How would the ECM not seeing the cam & crank signals cause it not to prime the pump? It shouldn't see anything there until it's cranking, right? Similar on the fuel filter - I can see it causing other problems, but not the ECM not priming the pump.
But yea, I'll be looking at whatever wiring I can reach today
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I have an aeromotive pump, which maybe noiser than OEM.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I believe the ECM will prime the fuel pump before starting the engine, but needs crank/cam signals to continue running the fuel pump once the engine starts.
It's this one - ignore the bracket. Comes already integrated on the PSI harness with the signal and ground connections made. You have to make the power & pump connections. The fuel pump relay is the one on the left.
