I have the wiring harness on the bench now. It's not a specific set up just for testing the PCM but how I have it wired, it seems like it should be working.
Correct
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Did you check to see if the pin is fully seated in the ecu connector for 58?
Sure did
I would check to see if all the ecu power and grounds are connected properly.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Has the engine been ran/started with this ECU at all yet?
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
A page or so late but......
There was a conversation about blowing up 4L60E transmissions. I saw no conversation about using a 4L65E let alone a built one. Every crate LS3 I've installed in a LC has had a matching 4L65E from GM performance. Every 5.3L pull out swap I've done, save one, has used a 4L65E Stage II from Monster trans. No issues with transmissions to date. Proper cooling is paramount to a happy trans.
There was a conversation about blowing up 4L60E transmissions. I saw no conversation about using a 4L65E let alone a built one. Every crate LS3 I've installed in a LC has had a matching 4L65E from GM performance. Every 5.3L pull out swap I've done, save one, has used a 4L65E Stage II from Monster trans. No issues with transmissions to date. Proper cooling is paramount to a happy trans.
How is everyone handling EVAP? I'm not a big fan of smelling gas so I want to keep the charcoal canister and hook up the GM PCM purge signal to a VSV. We shouldn't need to use the PCM vent signal since the 80 gas cap should allow air in without allowing fuel vapor out. I believe the PCM requires a tank pressure sensor and fuel level sensor. Does anyone have experience adding these to the 80 stock tank?
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
@White Stripe is the man to talk to for this
figured out my PCM issue... I wasn't giving power to ignition 
essentially the computer thought the key wasn't turned. I'm dumb.
essentially the computer thought the key wasn't turned. I'm dumb.
Yeah I have some info on that in my build thread.
Got a link to your build thread?
To all LS swap guys who used the original truck intake!
I mocked up the motor today and bolted it in using the original bolt holes on the crossmember to to see what was going on. The motor is a little crooked, I believe the bolt holes need to be moved to the passenger side to account for that. Along with moving them forward to clear the power steering pump to gearbox clearance. I've read multiple times that some guys moved their holes 1" forward and 3/4" to the passenger side. Can anyone confirm this? I also am finding it hard to believe doing this will help clear one of the ac lines on the compressor. It seems to me to get this intake to fit under the hood, the ac line is too low on the frame. Any comments?
I mocked up the motor today and bolted it in using the original bolt holes on the crossmember to to see what was going on. The motor is a little crooked, I believe the bolt holes need to be moved to the passenger side to account for that. Along with moving them forward to clear the power steering pump to gearbox clearance. I've read multiple times that some guys moved their holes 1" forward and 3/4" to the passenger side. Can anyone confirm this? I also am finding it hard to believe doing this will help clear one of the ac lines on the compressor. It seems to me to get this intake to fit under the hood, the ac line is too low on the frame. Any comments?
In order for my truck intake to fit and for the power steering pump and ac to fit the motor needed to move upwards to the point I had to cut a hole in the hood. I have custom ac lines and I ordered a ac compressor off of rock auto that seemed like would fit best in my frame. Im sure you could do a different power steering pump setup, but if your keeping the suspension stock height you run into axle/tie rod/driveshaft issues not having enough clearance if you have the engine sitting too low even if you get the ac and power steering pump to clear. I will try to measure the height of my setup when I get some extra time later.
-Did you put a hood scoop on to cover it up?
-I'm running a 2" lift from Dobinsons so I'm all good there
Yes it has a scoop. Ok, I don't have a lift on mine I wanted to leave it at stock suspension height. Their are some pulley setups that allow you to relocate the ac compressor to where the upper idler pulley is if I recall. Not sure where you get it but should be able to find it with a google search.
It all fits with no hood cutting if you have a body lift!
looks like your engine sits about 1/2 -3/4 " than my engine but i do not have problems with hood clearance and i m using all original parts off the engine made my own a/c line fits no problem, no body lift
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I too i am using factory air filter but routed the AC lines under the air filter box. But I used a smaller power steering pulley and oil tank needed some bending.
It fitted under the hood without any body lift. Just a suspension lift to help clear the front drive shaft clear the 4L60 oil pan .The front drive shaft was bolted back to front,
i made my own a/c line one to firewall goes directly to a/c compressor and front one i reused toyota metal line
and power steering i reused one toyota line and made on with one side toyota and other from GM
for transmission i used oil pan from older one and no problems with driveshaft clearance same with engine oil pan i used pan from camaro
and power steering i reused one toyota line and made on with one side toyota and other from GM
for transmission i used oil pan from older one and no problems with driveshaft clearance same with engine oil pan i used pan from camaro
