I’ve never used them before, but I know a lot of people in the Knoxville area like Rocky Top Customz for custom work.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I’ve never used them before, but I know a lot of people in the Knoxville area like Rocky Top Customz for custom work.
@FJ60Cam is in Memphis. Does nice work.
I've done quite a bit of searching through the forum but I haven't been able to find what I'm looking for.. I'm hoping someone might have a part number for a gas tank for my 93 fzj80 that would allow for the use of an Atlas transfer case behind a 4L60?
Last edited:
One piece of info:
The stock case has a passenger side drop.
The OEM 80 series tank is on the driver's side farther back from the t-case.
Not saying it won't interfere, just that it might not.
Unless you've already tried, in which case nevermind....
The stock case has a passenger side drop.
The OEM 80 series tank is on the driver's side farther back from the t-case.
Not saying it won't interfere, just that it might not.
Unless you've already tried, in which case nevermind....
My swap currently has the toyota temp sensor for the factory gauge midline one the heater hose. I would like to relocate it to the cylinder head. Where in the head can I put it and what adapter will i need?
Fyi if your trying to make your v8 swap emissions compliant and need to run additional wires into the fuel tank, I used radium engineering insulated bulkhead studs. Worked great.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
The heads are modular, so each one has a threaded hole. One head will have the GM sensor in it. The other a Allen head cap. You can either make an adapter to plug the Toyota sensor in the unused port, or buy an adapter. Mark's sells one.
Those look great!
I am interested in getting a 2speed atlas but the output for the rear DS comes out following the input shaft. Which I'm told interferes with the front inside corner of the stock gas tank. I need more parts before I can make the determination for myself.One piece of info:
The stock case has a passenger side drop.
The OEM 80 series tank is on the driver's side farther back from the t-case.
Not saying it won't interfere, just that it might not.
Unless you've already tried, in which case nevermind....
if you have someone with lathe you can machine the sensor and cut new thread to fit in GM head
left and right heads r totally same so on driver side ,sensor location is in the front and pass side in the rear i m using GM and toyota sensor
if you going to machine it you must use OEM toyota sensor because aftermarket is not solid brass it is just stamped brass and there is no enough material to cut it down
So is this the correct adapter?
www.marks4wd.com
Water Temperature Sensor Adaptor - LS3 V8 to LandCruiser | Marks 4WD
LS3 V8 to Toyota LandCruiser Water Temperature Sensor Adaptor (M12 x 1.5 - M16 x 1.5)
www.marks4wd.com
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Yeah, that's it.So is this the correct adapter?
Water Temperature Sensor Adaptor - LS3 V8 to LandCruiser | Marks 4WD
LS3 V8 to Toyota LandCruiser Water Temperature Sensor Adaptor (M12 x 1.5 - M16 x 1.5)
So the Mark's 4wd adait's way. For the coolant sensor is over 80 dollars with shipping. Turns out Amazon has one for 9 dollars thankfully.
BajaCruiser94
SILVER Star
Hi, well 87 pages of threads was very very helpfull for my swap on a '97 40th Anniversary, swapped in a LQ9 with a 4L65e tranny, still working on endless details, but in general its a blast to drive; I aint pushing the limits yet until I get most of the details ironed out.
But need help on some items:
1.- Charcoil Canister - I deleted the purge valve on the intake, that leaves me with a open port on the stock Toyota canister; should I delete all together, if so, what should I do with the "to tank" hose; or if I keep it, where can I plumb the purge line; I started to get the gas smell after continous running at high ambient temperatures.
2.- Idle vibrations - while idling in park its around 550-600 rpms; in drive its around 500-550 and some vibrations are transmitted to the cabin an are annoying in the stop lights, I might get the tuner to increase idle a bit; what idle ranges are you running at Park and Drive?
3.- Drivetrain added stress - I added a shift kit on the 4L65e and fist to second gear kick under throttle is agressive, im pretty sure the drivetrain can hanldle it just wanted to ask for some input, u-joints are almost new sourced thru Toyota dealer.
4.- Cabin Noise - With the hooker headers noise increased in the cabin; is sound deadner in the firewall/floorpans fixed this? any advice?
Here's a quick pick, in this one, im missing the custom fabbed mechanical fan shroud... and I might change the cobra intake hose for a normal 90 degree hose. - Details, details, details...
Anyway, I keep pushing thru the details, getting the list shorter and shorter..
Thanks for your advice.
-Emerson.
But need help on some items:
1.- Charcoil Canister - I deleted the purge valve on the intake, that leaves me with a open port on the stock Toyota canister; should I delete all together, if so, what should I do with the "to tank" hose; or if I keep it, where can I plumb the purge line; I started to get the gas smell after continous running at high ambient temperatures.
2.- Idle vibrations - while idling in park its around 550-600 rpms; in drive its around 500-550 and some vibrations are transmitted to the cabin an are annoying in the stop lights, I might get the tuner to increase idle a bit; what idle ranges are you running at Park and Drive?
3.- Drivetrain added stress - I added a shift kit on the 4L65e and fist to second gear kick under throttle is agressive, im pretty sure the drivetrain can hanldle it just wanted to ask for some input, u-joints are almost new sourced thru Toyota dealer.
4.- Cabin Noise - With the hooker headers noise increased in the cabin; is sound deadner in the firewall/floorpans fixed this? any advice?
Here's a quick pick, in this one, im missing the custom fabbed mechanical fan shroud... and I might change the cobra intake hose for a normal 90 degree hose. - Details, details, details...
Anyway, I keep pushing thru the details, getting the list shorter and shorter..
Thanks for your advice.
-Emerson.
what engine mounts r you using ?
i installed shift kit and corvette servo and same thing it shifts really aggressive 1-2 resit is pretty smooth but so far no problems about 15k miles and one trip to baja california through some crazy stuff
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
There’s a mech fan installed in that pic?!
I did a Ls swap a year ago, this last week it was about 90 degrees outside and I got stuck in traffic for hours. Finally when I got moving barely would run, had to pull over, opened hood looked around found nothing wrong. Let it cool for 5 min, restarted fine, sat in traffic more, happened again. It was real warm in engine bay. I think the air intake temp was to high making it shut down. I grafted the stock airbox to match the Ls intake. Any ideas to get this cooler, anybody have similar issues? Is the stock fj airbox flow enough air? I don’t have a snorkel btw
1. I had the same issue when I didn't have a charcoal canister. Ran tank line to canister and put a screw in the intake side.
2. Mine does the same thing, but stalls occasionally. I'm going to try to clean the throttle body to see if it helps.
3. My u joints have been fine but have snapped 3 rear axles in the rocks. Shifting is not enough to do much damage though imo.
Last edited:
Do you have a mechanical fan or electric?
BajaCruiser94
SILVER Star
At the time of that picture, no, it was not there, while doing some test runs with the fan clutch fully engaged I managed to tear the fan against the shroud with some high throttle; I reworked the shroud adding more tolerance for the blade flex, purchased a second fan and so far it has behaved.
Here are some pictures of how its running now.
Side view - I know the welds are ugly, once test runs are complete, I'll disassemble, smoothen the welds and have the shroud anodized black
.
Still need to invest time on the electronic side, lots of details pending:
- Shift indicator thru Range Switches from transmission.
- PWR button to activate Performance mode, turning PWR bulb on at dash, and defaulting off every ignition cycle.
- 4Lo and Torque converter Lock up relays
Regarding intake temperatures, I did some torture tests last weekend, idling for 1.5hours at 120*F ambient temperature, hood closed, AC full blast, Aux Fan ON, intake temperatures climbed up to ~160* no effect; after the idling period I did some laps around the block, no performance effect observed, only the fan clutch roaring constantly.
Im using Dirty Dingo ones, pretty nice, im positive a 50 or 100rpm's adjustment will fix the vibration issue; while in park, there is little to no vibration, If I increase thru the pedal aboyt 100rpms it smoothens out.
-Emerson
Damaged Fan...
Last edited:
