I have windstar fans on mine right now that do a great job of keeping it cool but hate how much current they draw. I'd like to go back to the clutch fan at some point.
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Are you still running the signal through a Dakota black box ?
Yes, accodring to what I've read, the GM PCM doesn't put out a strong enough signal to run the stock tach.
Did you ground the brown and white wires with black stripe coming out of the t-case harness? That was my issue with my '97's speedo. The tach on my '97 was easy with the dakota box using the black wire with silver bands that went to the toyota PCM
Yup, those wires grounded. The CDL & elockers all work. Tested the three wires to the sending unit, one gets 12v, one is grounded, and the other presumably sends the signal back to the combination meter. I beeped it out all the way to the glovebox, but don’t think I can actually test for a signal while diving. Replaced the sending unit on the tcase. I’ve got two more things to try: is the speedo gauge in the combination meter grounded? And dig a little deeper in the tcase to check that the sending unit is properly engaging.
But to the bright side, waiting for amazon on Friday, but 99% sure I have a solution to get backup lights, and PRND12 display on the dash.
The nice thing about the LS is that it's easy to upgrade the alternator for more power if necessary. I thought about electric but decided to go mechanical for simplicity. I do have a electric pusher for when the AC is on.
Or go all-out and double up on alternators.
LS swap conversion LS Truck Billet Dual Alternator Power Steering Bracket
www.dirtydingo.com
Here is the fan shroud kit I used...
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That kit is an amazing value IMO.
I agree. Works great.
Did you noticed high temperature Without the shroud? I want to remove my shroud to see if i get better airflow on the freeway. I want to see more air movement under the hood. Seems like with shroud the air is bouncing back off it on speeds over 50 MPH.
so i m also adding extreme duty fan clutch and hood scoop
i m not having problems with overheating but don't like to see 210-215 F on freeway
I have not noticed a temperature change. I added the shroud for 2 reasons, 1 my radiator hose was bouncing really close to the fan, 2 it should keep the condenser cooler at slow speeds. I was having temp issues because of a messed up thermostat and air in the system. Are you filling Coolant into the upper radiator hose first? 1 think I'm running around 190 to 200. I also added a Coolant H in the heater hoses as that's supposed to aid Coolant flow.
i ' m running volvo expansion tank and i also fill the cooling system thru the tank
and i ' m running suzuki vitara 14 " electrical fan to keep the condenser cool in summer and my a/c is like being in fridge at idle
and i ' m running suzuki vitara 14 " electrical fan to keep the condenser cool in summer and my a/c is like being in fridge at idle
If your shroud is really shallow I could see how air could be bouncing off of it as u say. My shroud is 2" deep before the fan. A guy at work has a LS with a shallow shroud. His LS overheats
i do not have overheating problem but just can't get over it running at 210 F heaven'S people telling me it is normal
how far back did you move your engine because i do not have that much room between fan and radiator
I was going to say...isn't 210 the desired operating temp for these engines?
210 is the desired operating temp for an LS it's normal, run 18-20 psi rad cap and don't worry about it
All else fails change the tstat to a 190 , hell have you checked tstat to know what it's set for?
All else fails change the tstat to a 190 , hell have you checked tstat to know what it's set for?
i have 187 F thermostat
i just found legit GM water pump and it has 187 F thermostat already installed i guess it is standard for 2007 5.3
i just found legit GM water pump and it has 187 F thermostat already installed i guess it is standard for 2007 5.3
With my steelnuts offroad rad I sit at legit 93-94c 199f all the time it's funny as hell
