Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)

[Squad1]

That is how mine is set up right now and the truck absolutely stinks. The little research I have done suggests the factory GM system uses fuel tank pressure and level to determine when to open the tank vent to the charcoal canister, as well as the canister to manifold valve.

I do have the purge valve and most of the lines, as well as a VC120 canister. I'll try hooking that up to see if it works without the fuel tank sensors.. hoping it does, as I don't want to run vented to atmosphere for too much longer.

let us all know how it works. I would like to get mine working too

 

[JeepinPete]

The '99 5.3 did not monitor fuel level that I recall. Can't help on that topic.

Thanks for the feedback on the 6L80E. I'm in the planning stages for a swap as I don't expect the 1FZ to last a whole lot longer. Had a NV3500 behind the 5.3, and really liked that setup. But the gearing of the 6L80 is darn near the same. Makes it hard to argue the superiority of a 5 speed as far as gearing is concerned.

 

[bloc]

The '99 5.3 did not monitor fuel level that I recall. Can't help on that topic.

Thanks for the feedback on the 6L80E. I'm in the planning stages for a swap as I don't expect the 1FZ to last a whole lot longer. Had a NV3500 behind the 5.3, and really liked that setup. But the gearing of the 6L80 is darn near the same. Makes it hard to argue the superiority of a 5 speed as far as gearing is concerned.

Plus.. the torque converter and very low 1st gear. I didn't do anything extreme.. the burr trail and one offshoot up a canyon with some technical though not super steep sections.. and never used low range once. The logic for the TC lockup is great as well, engaging asap and really not feeling like a "slushbox" at all.

I'm VERY happy I went this way with the transmission, even if I have to pull it back out.

One thing I have noticed about our trucks is the trans cooling system is very efficient. Normally around 125f when cruising in 70f weather. The hottest I've seen was 175 on a long gravel 2nd and 3rd gear climb.. and 3rd may have been slipping a bit.

I've been reading that GM added a thermostat to the transmission cooling system on 2014 pickups and wonder whether this is an efficiency move, or for the health of the transmission.

 

[JeepinPete]

I would guess efficiency. Warm oil offers a lot less rotational resistance than cold oil.

 

[RiverCityDave]

I posted earlier regarding at least CO emissions...CO goes by whatever is newer...engine or vehicle. In my case, it doesn't even have to be an erod. It could be any other engine that'll pass emissions and is 'suitable' for a 'light truck'.

Why do they have to make all of this BS so complicated!? It needs to be a nationwide standard.

State's Rights baby

 

[azcrackshot]

@Squad1 or @azcrackshot how is your evap hooked up? Using the fuel tank pressure sensor?

Finally found a set of truck scales. Even with the 6spd auto which is considerably bigger than a 4l60/65 my rig lost 100lb compared to the stock 1FZ and heavier a442f. Anyone with an a343f or using an iron block vortec won't save as much weight.

I'll have a lot more to say when I get back.. along with apparently having to rebuild my transmission. 3rd gear isn't happy. I was hoping it was the MAF tuning but after a couple thousand miles its clear it needs work. Fortunately the rebuild is pretty easy..

How To Rebuild a 6L80 Transmission With Optional Upgrades - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

The hardest part will be pulling the transmission. Haven't looked yet to see if it can come out with the engine in place..

I am running the stock tank with an internal Supra Fuel pump. All of the factory Toyota EVAP remains untouched except for where it connects to the new motor.

 

[bloc]

I am running the stock tank with an internal Supra Fuel pump. All of the factory Toyota EVAP remains untouched except for where it connects to the new motor.

Your engine has a simple evap purge valve between the charcoal canister and intake manifold?

Not that it matters much for my E38 ECM.. yours is ERod (E40?).. but I'm looking at my options

 

[azcrackshot]

Your engine has a simple evap purge valve between the charcoal canister and intake manifold?

Not that it matters much for my E38 ECM.. yours is ERod (E40?).. but I'm looking at my options

I am running the E67 ECM. I believe the EROD package included the parts to make this work. It looks like it runs from the EVAP canister purge across the front of the motor to a GM Connector that has a pressure sensor then to the throttle body. Here are some pictures.

 

[bloc]

Ok. Guessing the ERod might be built specifically to retrofit easily.. which means likely not bothering with fuel tank pressure or level.

Thanks for the pics.

 

[Squad1]

I am running the stock tank with an internal Supra Fuel pump. All of the factory Toyota EVAP remains untouched except for where it connects to the new motor.

The wiring/ programmer person I talked to today told me that I will have to run a gm pressure sensor somewhere in the top of the tank or the evap line going from the tank to the canister. He says the ecm monitors tank pressure to know when to open the purge valve. Any thoughts? It's an e38 ecm. I am hoping that if I need a pressure sensor ,that I can mount it on the inner fender near the canister

 

[bloc]

The wiring/ programmer person I talked to today told me that I will have to run a gm pressure sensor somewhere in the top of the tank or the evap line going from the tank to the canister. He says the ecm monitors tank pressure to know when to open the purge valve. Any thoughts? It's an e38 ecm. I am hoping that if I need a pressure sensor ,that I can mount it on the inner fender near the canister

There are two valves on a genIV E38 though.. a "vent" solenoid and a "purge" solenoid. The purge seems to be what allows vapors from the canister into the manifold.. but I am having trouble tracking down for sure whether the "vent" noid is in between the canister and the tank, or controls a bleed branch off the canister in case pressure gets too high.

Also, supposedly the pressure sensor on the tank isn't just for evap control, it allows the ECM to monitor gas cap integrity and throw a light for a "leaking tank". This is apparently part of why it has fuel level input.. the amount of pressure change over time/temp would be impacted by the non-liquid space inside the tank.

So I'd be interested in more details on what your tuner has worked out for this.

 

[Squad1]

I made a few modifications to the passenger side exhaust pipe. I picked up about 3" of clearance and no hitting at full bump with the 2" bump spacers. I wrapped the pipe where it went under the starter. The fit is much better now

 

[Legendsga]

Hey guys, I am looking for the owner of a 94 LC that I purchased in North Carolina salvage facility. It had a ls1 conversion, front and rear slee bumpers, arb lockers, fuel wheels, roof rack, etc... I bought it to use everything on mine but would like to pick the old owners brain if possible. Thanks for your help!

 

[jfz80]

Hey guys, I am looking for the owner of a 94 LC that I purchased in North Carolina salvage facility. It had a ls1 conversion, front and rear slee bumpers, arb lockers, fuel wheels, roof rack, etc... I bought it to use everything on mine but would like to pick the old owners brain if possible. Thanks for your help!

You can try posting over here but I dont recognize the sound of that one and would recognize it if an active member.
NC- Olde North State Cruisers
Color? There was a gold one that showed up at ancar ahow event a few years back but was all stock then.

 

[Legendsga]

Thank you. Oh and I forgot to mention. It had a registered personalized tag still left on it. "SFLT". And already had a cop buddy run it but seeing as how the title was already switched over he couldn't find anything

 

[bloc]

Air conditioning

First, thanks @Squad1 for pointing me to coldhose.com Those guys are awesome. I ended up calling the number to place the order so that I could check stock on everything.. the lady taking the order was super helpful.

First, a list of everything I ordered
part number, description
2-feet BH8 (#8 regular barrier hose)
3-feet BH10 (#10 regular barrier hose)
SB3002 12mm to #8 metric straight compression adapter fitting
SB3003 14.5mm to #10 metric straight compression adapter fitting
AA0738-AA0739 Denso 10S17F 10S20F Suction and Discharge Compressor adapters
(be careful on the next parts, there are lots of options for reduced barrier hose, aluminum vs steel, etc)
SB1313-3 45* female o-ring adapter to #10 hose with R134A suction port
SB1322-3 90* female o-ring adapter to #8 hose with R134A discharge port

The top two fittings allowed me to cut the stock hard lines and convert to the standard "barrier hose" sizes. I'm not completely confident that vibration won't eventually cause these to leak, but for now it's working great.

I did end up doing what Squad said he would have done if he could do it over.. I cut the stock discharge line under my passenger side battery and kept the hard line going through the firewall.


This is after I stripped the rubber hose off the stock toyota hard line forward from the firewall and am cutting it with a small tube cutter to get a clean end. The fitting on the left went on here. Cold hose didn't provide specs for how many turns on the compression fitting, but I just went to town on it. Seems to have worked.

Compressor adapters including both top and bottom orings. I had to break out the bolt bucket for an M8-1.25 bolt to hold these in. Be aware there is a pretty narrow range of correct lengths.. too long and it'll bottom out and not compress the oring, too short and you strip it. Sorry, I didn't measure the length of my bolts. Also these are so close together the nuts for the suction and discharge lines are extremely close.. but they do clear.

My suction line has a 45 and turns back toward the engine.. this is to get around the "tuna can" on the stock air cleaner and keep the line away from the exhaust manifold. I ended up adding some DEI heat sleeve to the suction line since it is subject to radiant heat from the manifold on this side.

The discharge line fits nicely.. clears my PS battery tray better than the factory line actually.

Note that a local hydraulic shop wouldn't crimp them.. apparently these use different dies. I found a shop in town that does custom AC lines so they crimped the lines up after I marked the rotation. With the compression fittings rotation isn't as important but with the bend of the upper line I wanted to keep the natural bend of the hose oriented the same.

I really think the smaller of the two available compressors would be fine.. this big "20" model is designed for an escalade with rear AC.. basically it doesn't need to run for very long before the amplifier shuts it down. It also noticeably drops the idle of the truck when it kicks on.. so far no stall but I'll play with upping the idle a little in HPTuners to see if it smooths things out. To clarify I don't think the "17" model would necessarily help.. just that the 20 isn't really needed. The stock GM ECM controls the compressor clutch with input from the climate control module over GMLan.. needless to say I won't be using this whole system. That also means there isn't a traditional "AC Clutch is on" input to the ECM.

I don't have electric fans so didn't need to use Squad1's special fitting to incorporate the GM system pressure sensor so that the ECM can use the fans to help cool the condenser.

I also haven't had enough time in it to determine whether my HD truck fan clutch is enough to cool at low RPMs and vehicle speeds.. but I plan to put a small condenser fan on it anyway. That might also get used for an oil cooler.. haven't started planning that out yet. Need to get the transmission rebuilt first.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

 

[Squad1]

looks great. I'm glad tat coldhose was able to help you out. I'm curious if yours makes any wierd noises inside the truck. I get a strange " wine" when the a/c is first turned on and then at random as it runs. It sounds to me like it might be the Freon flowing through the expansion valve, or to put it differently, like when you hear engine noise through your speaker. Almost sounds like when you get an ignition type noise picked up by a speaker. It is not electronic though, it's definitely a/c flow related. If I turn the a/c off it goes away. I am going to mess with reducing the Freon charge and see if it goes away. My a/c is very cold and works quite well. To date, no problem with the metric compression fittings where they compress onto the factory hard lines. Bloc, I too had a little trouble finding a place to crimp my lines, I took them to a friends shop and he let me use his hydraulic hose crimper. It worked fine, I just had to eyeball the amount of the crimp, as the dies were not an exact match to the a/c fittings.

 

[twbland]

I have an ATF leak between the Marks adapter and t-case. I believe it is a seal failure on the adapter. Anyone know what the seal part number? Hoping it's not a proprietary seal from Marks

 

[azcrackshot]

Send Mark's an email. That seems to be the best way to communicate with them. I have dealt with this guy in the past.

Let us know.



Mark's 4WD - Joel Hewes | Sales & Technical Support
sales@marks4wd.com

 

[bryson]

I don't know this, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was just a stock spec trans output seal in the adapter.