^^^^^Yes! So simple! Bookmarking that. Thank you!
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Almost all cars have the centerline of the crank pointing down to match the natural angle of the transmission. The Marks adapter worked perfectly in my case. I suppose another bonus is that it give a bit more clearance below. Look at the angle in the trans.
@azcrackshot perhaps there's enough of a difference in the accessory drive system on the L33 mentioned above and the LS3? Seemed like the mounts were fine except P/S interference?
Here is a picture of my motor complete. I am pretty sure a truck intake would clear with ease. Look at the downhill slope my intake has running from the airbox.
bloc
SILVER Star
I think the issue with marks adapters is using the taller truck intake manifold. An LS with the car intake is a few inches less tall.
Dirty dingo "hot rod" LS mounts are what I used and work great.
Edit: also I think the truck intake puts the throttle body further forward which can interfere with the slope of the hood. for reference I'll get a height from the lifter valley cover to the top of my TBSS intake.. which is supposedly the tallest of them. The diameter of the throttle body doesn't help either.
Edit2: I haven't seen a genIV using truck accessories and marks adapters but do remember some genIII guys saying the PS pump pulley hits the steering box by a lot. Azcrackshots pump appears to be higher up than a truck pump.. and even that needed clearancing. my engine is mounted dead in the middle (marks moves to the drivers side) and has about an inch of room between the pulley and box.
Dirty dingo "hot rod" LS mounts are what I used and work great.
Edit: also I think the truck intake puts the throttle body further forward which can interfere with the slope of the hood. for reference I'll get a height from the lifter valley cover to the top of my TBSS intake.. which is supposedly the tallest of them. The diameter of the throttle body doesn't help either.
Edit2: I haven't seen a genIV using truck accessories and marks adapters but do remember some genIII guys saying the PS pump pulley hits the steering box by a lot. Azcrackshots pump appears to be higher up than a truck pump.. and even that needed clearancing. my engine is mounted dead in the middle (marks moves to the drivers side) and has about an inch of room between the pulley and box.
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Wow......your engine bay is one of the finest I've seen. Great job. It is really impressive. You got your MAF working with the Toyota air intake box/filter too. I could not make that happen. I tried for a month using multiple techniques. Is your LS3 a DBW or a DBC? Looks like a DBW...same as mine. My MAF is real picky about the amount of air it gets. I even had to use air straighteners in the intake tube. Where did you mount you ecm and pcm?.....engine and trans controllers
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bloc
SILVER Star
What problems did you have? I'm using a new GM MAF and the LC airbox, but just now starting to calibrate the MAF using HPTuners.. and only now realizing what I'm getting myself into.
The Toyota intake box and filter restricted the airflow needed by my MAF (2009 LY5, 5.3L). It was a new crate motor. It was only after I gave up on the idea of using the Toyota box and used a k&n cone that things started to work out. The MAF placement on the tube is of course critical as well but I still had to use 2 stacked air straighteners to get the fuel trims in line.
Thanks for the compliment. Let me get back you on this. I am heading to Flagstaff for the Overland Expo for the next 4 days.
bloc
SILVER Star
Did you attempt any form of software modifying MAF/VE tables to tune it? Or only tweak intake parts til the fuel trims were acceptable?
I want my engine bay to look like that...
The ECM that came with the new crate motor and a manufacturers warranty was locked down and was only able to be modified by remote GM technicians. Just to get to where I have it today took hours of back and forth with them. So, yes they were able to tweak the software. It was not enough to make it run with the Toyota air box in my case.
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bloc
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info. I'm hoping HPTuners gives me enough ability to make the stock intake work.. however I'm already unhappy with the intake temps and can't run a snorkel due to how restrictive they are. So a custom intake may be required anyway..
bloc
SILVER Star
For those building their own harnesses using a 6L80E, I ran across a bit of a snag on powering the TCM.
Originally I had ignition switch +12v going to the TCM IGN and ECM IGN fuses, then on to each controller respectively. On the GM chassis the ECM IGN fuse is provided IGN+12v by the "run/crank relay" which is switched by the Body Control Module, once it sees the correct inputs from the DLIS (ignition switch). Most people just wire the ECM IGN fuse to the ignition switch and bypass the run/crank relay setup. I also did this for the TCM, since it's control is the exact same as the ECM.. it gets TCM IGN +12v via the run/crank relay.
Well apparently there is a disparity in how quickly these modules shut down, and that causes a P2534 code from the TCM when you kill power to both at the same time. I forget the verbatim text but it is something like Ignition circuit 1 low voltage. This also puts the transmission in Limp mode, and it will be stuck in 3rd gear, though reverse works as intended.
The way around this is to have your ECM now control the ignition +12v to the TCM.
Again in the GM, the ECM switches most of the +12v to injectors/coils/sensors via the "PWR TRN" relay. If you run your TCM ignition +12v off this run/crank relay as well, it'll squash the P2534 code and keep it out of limp mode.
Also for the emissions geeks.. depending on what they do for visual, in my Pre-OBDII truck I'm now passing enough readiness monitors to pass OBDII emissions, even without rear O2 sensors or evap hooked up.
In texas for engines 1996-2000 they allow two readiness monitors not-ready. For 2001+ it's only one. All I need to do is drive around for a few minutes and I get all but one monitor (I think it's the O2 sensors).. the O2 heater monitor is the slowest to check off but it does.
On my OBDI truck with a newer engine in texas at least, this means they should be able to hook up a scanner and pass it.. depending on how picky they get with the visual. No clue whether I'll get static about the OBDII VIN not matching the chassis yet. If they forego the scanner and hookup the tailpipe it SHOULD also be as clean... however I won't have EGR so that may prompt the scanner method.
Originally I had ignition switch +12v going to the TCM IGN and ECM IGN fuses, then on to each controller respectively. On the GM chassis the ECM IGN fuse is provided IGN+12v by the "run/crank relay" which is switched by the Body Control Module, once it sees the correct inputs from the DLIS (ignition switch). Most people just wire the ECM IGN fuse to the ignition switch and bypass the run/crank relay setup. I also did this for the TCM, since it's control is the exact same as the ECM.. it gets TCM IGN +12v via the run/crank relay.
Well apparently there is a disparity in how quickly these modules shut down, and that causes a P2534 code from the TCM when you kill power to both at the same time. I forget the verbatim text but it is something like Ignition circuit 1 low voltage. This also puts the transmission in Limp mode, and it will be stuck in 3rd gear, though reverse works as intended.
The way around this is to have your ECM now control the ignition +12v to the TCM.
Again in the GM, the ECM switches most of the +12v to injectors/coils/sensors via the "PWR TRN" relay. If you run your TCM ignition +12v off this run/crank relay as well, it'll squash the P2534 code and keep it out of limp mode.
Also for the emissions geeks.. depending on what they do for visual, in my Pre-OBDII truck I'm now passing enough readiness monitors to pass OBDII emissions, even without rear O2 sensors or evap hooked up.
In texas for engines 1996-2000 they allow two readiness monitors not-ready. For 2001+ it's only one. All I need to do is drive around for a few minutes and I get all but one monitor (I think it's the O2 sensors).. the O2 heater monitor is the slowest to check off but it does.
On my OBDI truck with a newer engine in texas at least, this means they should be able to hook up a scanner and pass it.. depending on how picky they get with the visual. No clue whether I'll get static about the OBDII VIN not matching the chassis yet. If they forego the scanner and hookup the tailpipe it SHOULD also be as clean... however I won't have EGR so that may prompt the scanner method.
here is a little tidbit of info I saved as a reference . It lists a lot of good info for GENIV engines
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/wp-...es/03_01_2012/986163348GMGENI_00000054947.pdf
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/wp-...es/03_01_2012/986163348GMGENI_00000054947.pdf
here is the original style t stat with the bypass valve built in. The lower spring/valve in the picture is designed to open at 5 psi pressure. This allows some coolant to circulate. If you are using a standard looking t-stat (the typical short type) They don't have the bypass valvel and could lead to the problems you are describing
