TRUTH. I'm getting excited...
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I feel the Texas reg reads the same way.
MDJ,
No build thread. Tried many different manifolds that were supposed to work according to the world wide web. LOL The only set that actually fit in my set up (6.2 LS3) without modifications was the Hooker manifolds. I am running the Marks adapter motor mounts. The Hooker clears the frame rails just enough.
Hooker Headers 8501: LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds Raw Finish | JEGS
Do those have the same exit point as the supplied headers? Any need for downpipes to be modified?
Also, I've been back and forth with AA about getting a correct PN for my engine mounts. What PN did you wind up using?
Did you have to buy a bellhousing adapter to make the transfer case adapter work with your transmission? Their website states one of 3 kits are required to make the entire package the same length as the original drivetrain...
bloc
SILVER Star
Heads up on the Marks/AA motor mount adapters.. IIRC they will lift the engine up too high to use a truck intake.
Also the hooker cast manifolds use the same bolt pattern and gasket as a LS3/2010 camaro. BUT.. the flanges are flipped. On the hooker manifolds the flange is flat and the groove for the gasket is on the stainless flange provided to weld to the downpipe. On the LS3 it is opposite. Same for the mounting studs.
This basically means you'd need to weld the provided flanges onto the LS3 downpipes. This sounds simple but there isn't much room between the frame rails and bellhousing, especially if you keep the front swaybar brackets.. so the cats will need to be turned and manipulated to fit. From having spent many hours lying under my truck looking at how to make the cats work, the stock LS3 downpipes aren't going to go in easy.
What transmission are you planning on using? A 6L80E bolts up to the LS3, and there is a single adapter needed to bolt that up to the HF2AV transfer case. Most of the 4L60/65/80 options need at least two adapters in series to work with the HF2AV.
Edit: per the pictures of AZCrackshot's rig in the following post, they had to modify the sway bar brackets to move them down out of the way of the cats. Still, things are very tight.
8x Series V8 Swaps
Also, it looks like his AC tensioner bracket is too high in relation to the crossmember for a truck intake. Mine only had about an inch of room there, and less than an inch between the TB/alternator and hood.
Also the hooker cast manifolds use the same bolt pattern and gasket as a LS3/2010 camaro. BUT.. the flanges are flipped. On the hooker manifolds the flange is flat and the groove for the gasket is on the stainless flange provided to weld to the downpipe. On the LS3 it is opposite. Same for the mounting studs.
This basically means you'd need to weld the provided flanges onto the LS3 downpipes. This sounds simple but there isn't much room between the frame rails and bellhousing, especially if you keep the front swaybar brackets.. so the cats will need to be turned and manipulated to fit. From having spent many hours lying under my truck looking at how to make the cats work, the stock LS3 downpipes aren't going to go in easy.
What transmission are you planning on using? A 6L80E bolts up to the LS3, and there is a single adapter needed to bolt that up to the HF2AV transfer case. Most of the 4L60/65/80 options need at least two adapters in series to work with the HF2AV.
Edit: per the pictures of AZCrackshot's rig in the following post, they had to modify the sway bar brackets to move them down out of the way of the cats. Still, things are very tight.
8x Series V8 Swaps
Also, it looks like his AC tensioner bracket is too high in relation to the crossmember for a truck intake. Mine only had about an inch of room there, and less than an inch between the TB/alternator and hood.
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I'll be using a 4L65E. It comes with the Erod package I'm buying. Considered the 80, but I'd rather have the warranty from Chevy.
The engine doesn't have the truck manifold, so hopefully no issues with clearance.
The engine doesn't have the truck manifold, so hopefully no issues with clearance.
bloc
SILVER Star
Ah.. I'm getting you and someone else PMing me about truck engines confused.
Bloc,
You are correct that the cats need to be cut and turned. There is 50+ hours in making my exhaust including cutting and turning the cats and it was a major pain in the ass and expensive. If you have the equipment and the time you can do it but I hope you have patience as it is a slow and painful process. My sway bar brackets were modified and yes things are tight but all clearances are fine. As for the hooker manifolds they fit with no clearancing needed on my setup. I will check with HP Solutions to see if they used the included flanges on my downpipes. I have V-Band flanges everywhere in my exhaust system. I did this to make swapping mufflers and cats for straight pipes a little easier. I am not happy with the Marks ac relocation bracket. I have had nothing but trouble with it. It makes all kinds of noise on the idler pulley and the tensioner has clearance issues even after following their directions to clearance things. I would not run the Marks AC relocation again.
You said : Also, it looks like his AC tensioner bracket is too high in relation to the crossmember for a truck intake. Mine only had about an inch of room there, and less than an inch between the TB/alternator and hood.
Are you referring to a factory GM truck intake pipe going to the airbox? Of course I am running the factory power robbing Toyota airbox and a custom intake pipe to the throttle body so I can't help you with that.
You said : From having spent many hours lying under my truck looking at how to make the cats work, the stock LS3 downpipes aren't going to go in easy.
I feel your pain in my wallet. HP Solutions told me the exhaust was very challenging and time consuming. I paid a lot for the fab work on my exhaust and bitched about it. Your comments are easing the pain a little for me. (<:
You are correct that the cats need to be cut and turned. There is 50+ hours in making my exhaust including cutting and turning the cats and it was a major pain in the ass and expensive. If you have the equipment and the time you can do it but I hope you have patience as it is a slow and painful process. My sway bar brackets were modified and yes things are tight but all clearances are fine. As for the hooker manifolds they fit with no clearancing needed on my setup. I will check with HP Solutions to see if they used the included flanges on my downpipes. I have V-Band flanges everywhere in my exhaust system. I did this to make swapping mufflers and cats for straight pipes a little easier. I am not happy with the Marks ac relocation bracket. I have had nothing but trouble with it. It makes all kinds of noise on the idler pulley and the tensioner has clearance issues even after following their directions to clearance things. I would not run the Marks AC relocation again.
You said : Also, it looks like his AC tensioner bracket is too high in relation to the crossmember for a truck intake. Mine only had about an inch of room there, and less than an inch between the TB/alternator and hood.
Are you referring to a factory GM truck intake pipe going to the airbox? Of course I am running the factory power robbing Toyota airbox and a custom intake pipe to the throttle body so I can't help you with that.
You said : From having spent many hours lying under my truck looking at how to make the cats work, the stock LS3 downpipes aren't going to go in easy.
I feel your pain in my wallet. HP Solutions told me the exhaust was very challenging and time consuming. I paid a lot for the fab work on my exhaust and bitched about it. Your comments are easing the pain a little for me. (<:
I am running these. They use the factory Toyota rubber.
Engine Mount Kit - LS Series V8 to LandCruiser 80 & 105 Series
bloc
SILVER Star
I was referring to the vortec truck intake manifold. It is a lot taller than the LS car intake.. and no I don't have any experience with marks AC bracket. I assumed it was the same as on a truck.. and the bottom of the tensioner bracket is a good reference point against the crossmember for engine height. Apparently not when compared to a car engine though.
I'm no pro but even with my cats down next to the transmission I spent a LOT of time on the exhaust. Overall I'm quite happy with how it worked out other than how loud it is, but I just can't see how the LS3 cats could be made to work in the stock EROD location with the sway bar brackets in place. Your lift is tall enough to move them.. which is a great idea. My lift is only 2", which means the sway bar only needs to move 1" down, which I don't think would give the room. Totally rebuilding the brackets could work..
Considering the time spent on making yours fit, would you opt to have drop brackets fabricated if possible? I have the ability to weld up my exhaust myself, but not necessarily all the time in the world with a 3 month old...I'd rather pay someone to clearance the exhaust than deal with it if it's that big of a pain in the ass.
Did you get these from Marks or AA? I can't seem to find them on AA. 500 is steep!
bloc
SILVER Star
Let me get some video of my exhaust in a couple days so you can see one method for routing. The area from the manifolds down to beside the transmission is the hardest part, wrapping the driver's side over the transfer case is hard, and getting through the rear suspension as well. The drop brackets will only help solve the catalyst situation. I'm at work so don't have my rig to crawl under there and see if there is a good way to do it, but the "problem" area is where the stock brackets wrap up inside the frame. If you could attach the links solidly from the bottom of the frame it would help a lot. I'm not certain that would get you everything you need.. the end of the links themselves might be in the way.
Many people on this board ditch the front sway bar altogether. It is removing the rear that really seems to upset the handling of these rigs. So much so that Jcardona is doing a custom rear bar on his rock crawling rig with a super flexy 3-link front. Not that you necessarily should remove the front bar... but it would help a LOT in cramming the E-Rod exhaust into the limited places you are allowed by strict emissions rules.
I actually have a set of the Mark's motor mount adapter plates that came with my transfer case adapter.. definitely won't be using them. I think they are the same thing AZCrackshot used.. if you can get a part number of what you need I'll double check whether that's what I have.
I don't have the rubber mounts they came with though.
That'd be awesome to put my eyes on a few problem areas before getting into this. I'm good enough with problem solving, but it always helps to have some foresight.
The link that azcrackshot posted is the set it need. PN is MFK1765EM according to the marks site. I'm super lost on all of this marks/aa stuff and who sells what, etc. Ive got an email in to AA to try to sort out what I need for the 65E tranny, but haven't heard back. Did you buy some kind of kit for yours? Motor mounts/t-case adapter?
I just need to make a phone call and sort it out. I hate sending technical emails. Takes all day.
End rant.
Anyway, let me know what mount plates you have. I'd definitely like to save $112 in shipping if I can. Hell, I just paid 215 to have my RTT shipped from a couple states away. Sheesh!
bloc
SILVER Star
I dealt directly with Marks and they were great. This is what I have: 6L80E to LandCruiser 4-speed auto HF2A transfer case They have a derivative of that number stamped on them, the same as in your kit.. so I feel safe saying the adapters would work.
PM me if they work and you want them.
I'll try to get that video thursday or friday.
Are you considering the truck intake? I posted plenty of pics of mine. 2013 truck 5.3 and it all clears fine. I can put my fingers between the a/c tensioner and the tubular cross member. I can even run the plactic engine cover that came with it and close the hood. No body lift or anything. I do run 2" sway bar spacers to clear the driveshaft . using ome hevy springs in front. I would put it at about 4" lift
@MDJ. I believe that this is the adaptor that you need:
4L60E 6 bolt to LandCruiser 4-speed auto HF2A Transfer Case
Should work with a 4L65E
If you order it directly from Marks, you can take advantage of the strong dollar. PayPal automatically calculates the exchange rate.
4L60E 6 bolt to LandCruiser 4-speed auto HF2A Transfer Case
Should work with a 4L65E
If you order it directly from Marks, you can take advantage of the strong dollar. PayPal automatically calculates the exchange rate.
Awesome. I suppose that means I'd just need to get some new Toyota Rubber mounts or use mine if they don't look too bad.
Anyone have the Toyota PN for the rubber mounts handy?
I am not. Not for any reason other than the Erod doesn't come with one. I feel like the LS community is all about getting rid of the truck intake for power gains? Are torque figures different with the truck intake? Either way, modifying this engine is about the last thing on my list, especially with a warranty.
Anyone with an erod (LS) have any issues with the Chevrolet issued accessory package? I suppose from looking at pictures, the only issue would be (perhaps) the starter and A/C compressor?
Chevrolet Performance Parts - 19155067 - CPP Accessory Drive System With A/C - Fits LS2, LS3 & LS7 Engines
I will be calling Pace to verify whether or not they will customize this system with a higher amperage alternator and whether or not I'll have to buy their silly connector if so.
Any alternator suggestions?
Chevrolet Performance Parts - 19155067 - CPP Accessory Drive System With A/C - Fits LS2, LS3 & LS7 Engines
I will be calling Pace to verify whether or not they will customize this system with a higher amperage alternator and whether or not I'll have to buy their silly connector if so.
Any alternator suggestions?
