i went to my local hardware store and got stainless studs, washers and nuts. They were technically threaded rods and not studs ,but the had short ones that were the correct length. Has been working great for the past 4 yeaars and only set me back about $20
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (9 Viewers)
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bloc
SILVER Star
Just to be clear, first pic is the first stage, removing the extractor, but the bolt is still in there.. second and third are of the bolt remnant coming out.
HUGE thanks to @zoojp for the plug weld idea. Everyone else as well.
I'm a little surprised the same method removed the drilled out remnants of the broken bolt, but even that came right out. maybe getting it so hot while welding the washer on softened it up and allowed the expanded end of it to shrink back down. Either way, I'm back on track and only slowed down by a few days. I'll run a tap in to clean the threads out, and decide whether to go with ARP or VW hardware to attach the manifolds.
Glad you got it out without any damage to the head!! Awesome!
This is what I used with the Hooker Cast manifolds. Correct length w/ washer.
Worked nicely...
ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits 134-1202
Worked nicely...
ARP Chromoly Header Bolt Kits 134-1202
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bloc
SILVER Star
Str8Razor
SILVER Star
I see in your sig you have 50 mm springs, is that equivalent to 2'"? looking at your oil pan clearance what is the least amount of lift with the most optimal oil pan that would work? Dry sump slick oil pan and no lift? Just looking for options as I am starting down the path of Vortecing my 80 and want to do it with the least amount of lift...should have a tough dog 2'' kit here in a few weeks and i want to stay on the 33's that are on it now...any input appreciated...
bloc
SILVER Star
@RockJock82 has done one at stock height with a F-body pan, though it was a 4L60E which changes driveline interference a little.
1995 5.3L w/o lift kit
The very common f-body pan is what most people seem to use, but I personally didn't like the small 5-qt capacity, which is why I looked at the LS3 and eventually H3 pan.
Once I get the engine set into the chassis in the next couple of weeks I'll get a lot more pictures of how things look under the truck.
But yes, 2" lift, 1.5" bump spacers. The pics of the LS3 setup are with the truck sitting on the bump stops. At ride height that pan wouldn't hit but with any big bumps it might. Also make note of my engine sitting further back than most swaps.. many guys move it forward an inch to help keep it out of the firewall. I couldn't do this due to my IPOR crossmember /skid plate making things a lot more difficult.
1995 5.3L w/o lift kit
The very common f-body pan is what most people seem to use, but I personally didn't like the small 5-qt capacity, which is why I looked at the LS3 and eventually H3 pan.
Once I get the engine set into the chassis in the next couple of weeks I'll get a lot more pictures of how things look under the truck.
But yes, 2" lift, 1.5" bump spacers. The pics of the LS3 setup are with the truck sitting on the bump stops. At ride height that pan wouldn't hit but with any big bumps it might. Also make note of my engine sitting further back than most swaps.. many guys move it forward an inch to help keep it out of the firewall. I couldn't do this due to my IPOR crossmember /skid plate making things a lot more difficult.
bloc
SILVER Star
Good news
But.. bad news
H3 pan is a no-go. I hadn't really even looked at Mark's modified LS pan due to the cost but had a bit of a sinking feeling the other day when looking through this thread and realized @azcrackshot pic had the Mark's pan, and it was just a modded H3, vs the truck pan that I assumed it was.
Well, this is with the truck sitting on 1.5" bump stops. Clearance is about 1/8" to the tie rod. If you put the engine any lower it'll hit even without the increased bump compression from a big hit.
"yeah yeah, should have used an F-body pan". I just might have to. The problem is the F-body pan doesn't have the boss to add the aux pressure relief valve that is apparently needed with my high-flow oil pump.
Right about now, having bought a used LS3 pan (cheap) and a H3 pan, the cost of Mark's pan doesn't seem so bad.
Not really sure what I'm going to do at this point. Having a local shop work the pan over to clear is an option, but IMO not a good one. They'll not only have to treat it carefully so it doesn't leak, but move the drain plug and shorten the pickup.
I don't think I can just drill the aux relief valve into the uneven portion on the F-body pan.. the orifice it bleeds pressure off from is parallel to the center port of the oil filter but offset to the side some.
But.. bad news
H3 pan is a no-go. I hadn't really even looked at Mark's modified LS pan due to the cost but had a bit of a sinking feeling the other day when looking through this thread and realized @azcrackshot pic had the Mark's pan, and it was just a modded H3, vs the truck pan that I assumed it was.
Well, this is with the truck sitting on 1.5" bump stops. Clearance is about 1/8" to the tie rod. If you put the engine any lower it'll hit even without the increased bump compression from a big hit.
"yeah yeah, should have used an F-body pan". I just might have to. The problem is the F-body pan doesn't have the boss to add the aux pressure relief valve that is apparently needed with my high-flow oil pump.
Right about now, having bought a used LS3 pan (cheap) and a H3 pan, the cost of Mark's pan doesn't seem so bad.
Not really sure what I'm going to do at this point. Having a local shop work the pan over to clear is an option, but IMO not a good one. They'll not only have to treat it carefully so it doesn't leak, but move the drain plug and shorten the pickup.
I don't think I can just drill the aux relief valve into the uneven portion on the F-body pan.. the orifice it bleeds pressure off from is parallel to the center port of the oil filter but offset to the side some.
bloc
SILVER Star
I did a number on the firewall to clear the engine without moving it forward. I felt strongly about not shoving the transfer shifter out of place, keeping my drive lines centered, and most importantly dealing with my IPOR skid plate being VERY thick where the holes would need to be moved to.
So I hammered the s*** out of the firewall. I was careful to "feel" if anything important behind the sheet metal was getting damaged.. seems everything is fine. And this pic makes it look closer than it is. Probably 3/4" clearance at the closest.
I'll be installing some foil lined adhesive backed fiberglass insulation over the dents to make things look a little less wrecked.
And I'm not sure about you guys' stock firewall insulation.. mine is in piss poor shape. totally filled with dust, disintegrates when I touch it, etc.
Trans dipstick tube fits great, the hole above/behind the rusted manifold bolt is plugged on the GM engine, I plan to have a toyota water temp gauge sender machined down to fit into the hole. IMO the adapter moves it out of the flow of water so readings will be delayed.
The return to the PS pump is pretty close to the box. This is after bending it up toward the reservoir some. I might chop off the end and have it collect closer to the pump if I think I can keep it from leaking without a barb on the end of the metal line. At least an inch between the box and pulley, similar on the other side with the body of the AC pump and frame.
So I hammered the s*** out of the firewall. I was careful to "feel" if anything important behind the sheet metal was getting damaged.. seems everything is fine. And this pic makes it look closer than it is. Probably 3/4" clearance at the closest.
I'll be installing some foil lined adhesive backed fiberglass insulation over the dents to make things look a little less wrecked.
And I'm not sure about you guys' stock firewall insulation.. mine is in piss poor shape. totally filled with dust, disintegrates when I touch it, etc.
Trans dipstick tube fits great, the hole above/behind the rusted manifold bolt is plugged on the GM engine, I plan to have a toyota water temp gauge sender machined down to fit into the hole. IMO the adapter moves it out of the flow of water so readings will be delayed.
The return to the PS pump is pretty close to the box. This is after bending it up toward the reservoir some. I might chop off the end and have it collect closer to the pump if I think I can keep it from leaking without a barb on the end of the metal line. At least an inch between the box and pulley, similar on the other side with the body of the AC pump and frame.
bloc
SILVER Star
Now that I think about it.. that LS3 pan could probably be worked over much more easily. Wouldn't need to move the pickup or drain plug... Just lop off a couple inches of that front lower corner and weld a plate in. And I'd get my close to 8-qt capacity. 
Edit: somewhat exciting news on the wiring.
I'm planning on attempting to make all of the fuse/relay wiring happen in the factory toyota fuse box. That will exclude electric fans.. though I am planning ahead to add those easily if needed in the future.
Fact is, no longer needing the EFI fuse and EFI Main relay frees up some space, and retrofitting other fuse blanks and relays isn't too difficult. My only concern with repurposing the EFI Main relay is that it's only rated for 22 amps.. I need to do some digging but I think the GM coils/injectors/sensors/everything else might be set up for more current capacity with their relays. Also need to see if any toyota relays are available with higher than 22A rating.
Will post as that gets going.
Thing is.. I'm not sure how useful my wiring will be for other people. My truck is titled as a 94 so doesn't have OBDII inspection.. however it has a 97 body and dash/clip harness, which has some advantages over 94 in terms of laying in the GM wiring. Someone with OBDII may still need to install the secondary O2 sensors, fuel tank pressure sender, and other emissions crap that I'm leaving out.. again which means my wiring stuff may not help.
Either way I plan to post details.
Edit: somewhat exciting news on the wiring.
I'm planning on attempting to make all of the fuse/relay wiring happen in the factory toyota fuse box. That will exclude electric fans.. though I am planning ahead to add those easily if needed in the future.
Fact is, no longer needing the EFI fuse and EFI Main relay frees up some space, and retrofitting other fuse blanks and relays isn't too difficult. My only concern with repurposing the EFI Main relay is that it's only rated for 22 amps.. I need to do some digging but I think the GM coils/injectors/sensors/everything else might be set up for more current capacity with their relays. Also need to see if any toyota relays are available with higher than 22A rating.
Will post as that gets going.
Thing is.. I'm not sure how useful my wiring will be for other people. My truck is titled as a 94 so doesn't have OBDII inspection.. however it has a 97 body and dash/clip harness, which has some advantages over 94 in terms of laying in the GM wiring. Someone with OBDII may still need to install the secondary O2 sensors, fuel tank pressure sender, and other emissions crap that I'm leaving out.. again which means my wiring stuff may not help.
Either way I plan to post details.
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Anyone have sizes of coolers theyve used?? Or willing to take a couple measurements.....
I forgot to take some before i left for up north and want to order my trans and oil coolers so they are waiting for me when i get home
I forgot to take some before i left for up north and want to order my trans and oil coolers so they are waiting for me when i get home
Anyone have sizes of coolers theyve used?? Or willing to take a couple measurements.....
I forgot to take some before i left for up north and want to order my trans and oil coolers so they are waiting for me when i get home
I'm having good luck so far with the 80 series trans cooler running inline with the radiator (4L60E).
First off beers to the group!
I know , I know, it is all relative
Now with that out of the way what donor vehicles should we be looking for? I read all 23 pages of this FAQ, and I LOVE it, but I did not see a lot of details about donors. How about we break it down like this?
I know , I know, it is all relative
Now with that out of the way what donor vehicles should we be looking for? I read all 23 pages of this FAQ, and I LOVE it, but I did not see a lot of details about donors. How about we break it down like this?
- All aluminum, (or at least mostly), 5.3L engine and heads, with a 4LXXE Tranny Donor
- All, or mostly Aluminum, 6L engine with a 4LXXE Tranny Donor
- etc
- etc
bloc
SILVER Star
LS based GM small-block engine - Wikipedia
That is the most comprehensive list of LS based engines I've seen, including good guidelines on what models they were sold in.
From there I took the Engine codes I was interested in and started searching on ebay to get an idea of cost. Also use car-part.com to search for junkyards in your area that might not post on ebay.. these guys will be good for finding a "complete" swap, including harness/ecu/accessories/transmission/etc. IMO it is VERY important that you get a complete swap.. there is just too much in the way of unknowns with different year transmissions/engine compatibility.
That is the most comprehensive list of LS based engines I've seen, including good guidelines on what models they were sold in.
From there I took the Engine codes I was interested in and started searching on ebay to get an idea of cost. Also use car-part.com to search for junkyards in your area that might not post on ebay.. these guys will be good for finding a "complete" swap, including harness/ecu/accessories/transmission/etc. IMO it is VERY important that you get a complete swap.. there is just too much in the way of unknowns with different year transmissions/engine compatibility.
bloc
SILVER Star
To add on to that, the 6.0 sold in HD trucks would be a very good engine but in 6-spd format usually came with a 6L90E that will need the output shaft swapped to use the transfer case adapter. I never did get an answer from AA about whether the correct part was available separately, or the cost.. but it WILL be required. That said, if you swap output shafts the 6L90 would put the engine in a very good position without having to move the transfer case.
here is a more or less complete list of what I'd want in a swap "kit"
*Engine, including accessories (alt, ps pump, starter, all sensors, intake manifold and throttle body)
*Transmission (make sure to follow guidelines on 2wd vs 4wd), including torque converter, get all bellhousing and TC bolts. Don't forget little things like the plastic bellhousing port covers. About $20 new but all that stuff adds up.
*UNCUT Engine/transmission harness. It is separate but also throttle pedal harness cut at least a few inches from the plug
*All sensors, including airflow meter, O2 sensors (even if you plan to use new, old ones help with wiring layout)
*BCM for genIV (~07+) and a few inches of each harness connector (There are seven). If so also get the battery current sensor on the negative battery cables. The connector will be in the engine harness
*TAC module for genIII
*Throttle pedal isn't important as most upgrade to the corvette pedal that is easier to modify and install
*Engine computer, plus transmission computer if 4LXX (6L80/90 TCM is internal to the transmission)
*Few inches of PS and AC lines coming off pumps
*If you need OBDII emissions, fuel tank pressure sensor and wiring. I'm unsure whether you'll need to integrate the fuel level stuff, but the ECM does track it.
If I think of anything else I'll edit.
here is a more or less complete list of what I'd want in a swap "kit"
*Engine, including accessories (alt, ps pump, starter, all sensors, intake manifold and throttle body)
*Transmission (make sure to follow guidelines on 2wd vs 4wd), including torque converter, get all bellhousing and TC bolts. Don't forget little things like the plastic bellhousing port covers. About $20 new but all that stuff adds up.
*UNCUT Engine/transmission harness. It is separate but also throttle pedal harness cut at least a few inches from the plug
*All sensors, including airflow meter, O2 sensors (even if you plan to use new, old ones help with wiring layout)
*BCM for genIV (~07+) and a few inches of each harness connector (There are seven). If so also get the battery current sensor on the negative battery cables. The connector will be in the engine harness
*TAC module for genIII
*Throttle pedal isn't important as most upgrade to the corvette pedal that is easier to modify and install
*Engine computer, plus transmission computer if 4LXX (6L80/90 TCM is internal to the transmission)
*Few inches of PS and AC lines coming off pumps
*If you need OBDII emissions, fuel tank pressure sensor and wiring. I'm unsure whether you'll need to integrate the fuel level stuff, but the ECM does track it.
If I think of anything else I'll edit.
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Another advantage of using the 6 liter 'truck package' is the accessories are mounted higher on the engine and it helps in packaging into the engine bay. The SS version of the Chevy Trail Blazer has the 6 liter HO and it has the truck configuration. If I had to do mine again, I'd look for that config.
I used a Pontiac GTO motor and basically had to sell off most of the accessories and re-buy the truck stuff.
I used a Pontiac GTO motor and basically had to sell off most of the accessories and re-buy the truck stuff.
bloc
SILVER Star
Truck accessories also keep the alternator very high in the engine bay and further away from any water/dust.
But. Not just 6.0. Truck layout is available in 4.8, 5.3, all the way up to 6.2 from the escalade like mine. Some are iron, some aluminum.
Also consider whether the engine has variable valve timing (VVT) and/or "Active Fuel Management" (displacement on demand aka cylinder shutdown). VVT is relatively reliable, but AFM is known for problems with the lifters as the miles rack up. It can be eliminated but that does add a bit of cost.
IMO the 2008 L92 that I'm running is one of the best options. Aluminum block 6.2, VVT but no AFM/DoD, truck accessories, available with 6L80E that easily converts to mark's transfer case adapter...
But. Not just 6.0. Truck layout is available in 4.8, 5.3, all the way up to 6.2 from the escalade like mine. Some are iron, some aluminum.
Also consider whether the engine has variable valve timing (VVT) and/or "Active Fuel Management" (displacement on demand aka cylinder shutdown). VVT is relatively reliable, but AFM is known for problems with the lifters as the miles rack up. It can be eliminated but that does add a bit of cost.
IMO the 2008 L92 that I'm running is one of the best options. Aluminum block 6.2, VVT but no AFM/DoD, truck accessories, available with 6L80E that easily converts to mark's transfer case adapter...
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That is a great resource. I have started to boil it down to make searching for a donor vehicle easier. The one thing that is missing on that list is the transmission information. What years were the breaks on those?
bloc
SILVER Star
6L80/6L90 will only be available on Gen4 or newer. Some Gen4 were still 4L60/65/70.. so don't assume a gen4 engine code had 6-spd without checking. Technically 05 is the start of Gen4, but I think anything 07 or newer should have a 6-spd.
I forgot to mention I used the big chart at the bottom of that linked page the most.. shows Generation, engine code, displacement, horsepower, compression ratio (for fuel requirement), and block composition.. all in one place. From there take engine codes and start punching them into ebay to see what transmission comes up. Narrow it down and spend a while watching auctions.
Also, DEFINITELY avoid an engine from the rust belt, even if it's aluminum block. There is a major yard in NH putting a lot of engines on ebay IIRC but every one I saw had rusted bolts and other hardware. IMO that's where car-part.com shines. You can decide from wikipedia/ebay which engine you like, then figure out what it came in, then search on car-part by year/model for local yards that have that engine. Then contact them to see if they have all the rest of the stuff. I even found a couple local places that were willing to buy a vehicle at auction specifically to pull all the stuff I needed. That's the kind of thing that comes from physically going to a yard and talking to the guys.
I guess I' ve got two wiring questions
The speed sensor at the back of the TC seems to have a 3 pin plug. What goes where to connect to my OEM speedo in my dash? The pinouts only seem to have one wire into the dash.
Vortec Swap - Pin Out Sheets
Second question:
Has anybody re-wired in the electronic locker. Got pin out ?
The speed sensor at the back of the TC seems to have a 3 pin plug. What goes where to connect to my OEM speedo in my dash? The pinouts only seem to have one wire into the dash.
Vortec Swap - Pin Out Sheets
Second question:
Has anybody re-wired in the electronic locker. Got pin out ?
