Looks good! Gas pedal was a huge PITA for me. I use a steel one and welded the Toyota pedal to it. But it still sits higher then I'd like.
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (8 Viewers)
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Torfab originally made a plate which i changed out to square tube to space further off the firewall (and further off the carpet)
One step closer. Hoping 
to drop in on Tuesday.
to drop in on Tuesday.
Exactly what I put in...what tranny are you going with?
Looks amazing. I pulled the TCase off when putting it in...its really long with the adapter.
That is way better than what I made...I will have to let you try it out...Re-working Wiring harness to hide wires and then it is heading to the muffler shop.
I’m gonna do a 6l80e or 6l90e depending on what I can find. I have seen several people say they would do a 6l80 if they had it to do over instead of a 6l90 so I’m gonna research that some more.
I have an output for a 6l90 if you get one. You will have to open up the 6L90 to get to it. Only the big snap ring is a challenge.
I just got my 4l80e adapter from Marks, definitely not the prettiest thing is it. I read this entire thread and saw someone had issues with the threads pulling out, anyone else have issues with threads or the adapter itself?
Thanks for all the info everyone, great thread..
Thanks for all the info everyone, great thread..
@EricG
I read a couple of your posts. Some wiring questions.
I have a Gen IV.
AC I am imagining using the Toyota climate control system. So how did you wire this? I do want the E38 EXM to control the AC but curious about controlling AC clutch and turning on/electric fans.
I saw your post about 4LO. I may come back to that but for now AC is what I’m wondering.
I read a couple of your posts. Some wiring questions.
I have a Gen IV.
AC I am imagining using the Toyota climate control system. So how did you wire this? I do want the E38 EXM to control the AC but curious about controlling AC clutch and turning on/electric fans.
I saw your post about 4LO. I may come back to that but for now AC is what I’m wondering.
So my GM computer doesn't touch the AC system. The same wires that ran the AC clutch on the Toyota engine run the clutch on the GM engine. And that's the extent of it. The stock Toyota climate control system monitors the engine temperature and will turn off AC if it gets to high. I think it will also turn off AC at WOT. But I didn't attempt to translate those inputs from the GM engine to the Toyota CC system, so driver needs to turn it off as required. The GM computer would do similar, but I haven't explored integrating them, and probably won't. Doesn't meet my pain threshold yet. The only thing that's been a minor problem is that the GM computer can't bump the throttle when the compressor turns on, so on rare occasion the engine will stall if it comes on at idle. I might look into that sometime.
As far as the electric fan control. IIRC, the GM computer provides ground signals to trigger the fan relays. There's a pressure switch on the high side AC line near the DS headlight I think. It has two wires on it: +12v in and 12V out at very high pressure to tell the CC system to turn the AC off because its not getting cooled enough. But the switch has a 3rd unwired port that indicates a lower pressure level which tells you that you need additional air flow. You can get a lead for it at your local dealer and insert it. That will provide a + signal for pressure on that line, which you can convert to ground with another relay (you'll get good at wiring relays by the time you're done with this). Then connect that as an alternate path to ground for one of the fans so it comes on when AC pressure comes up. It's the same pressure switch that the aux fan guys use and there are some good write-ups on it.
Only problem is that that alternate ground confuses the GM computer and it sets a CEL about a bad fan circuit. Haven't figured out how to fix it yet ... probably another relay
Thanks for this input. I plan to finally hook up my AC this winter.....So my GM computer doesn't touch the AC system. The same wires that ran the AC clutch on the Toyota engine run the clutch on the GM engine. And that's the extent of it. The stock Toyota climate control system monitors the engine temperature and will turn off AC if it gets to high. I think it will also turn off AC at WOT. But I didn't attempt to translate those inputs from the GM engine to the Toyota CC system, so driver needs to turn it off as required. The GM computer would do similar, but I haven't explored integrating them, and probably won't. Doesn't meet my pain threshold yet. The only thing that's been a minor problem is that the GM computer can't bump the throttle when the compressor turns on, so on rare occasion the engine will stall if it comes on at idle. I might look into that sometime.
As far as the electric fan control. IIRC, the GM computer provides ground signals to trigger the fan relays. There's a pressure switch on the high side AC line near the DS headlight I think. It has two wires on it: +12v in and 12V out at very high pressure to tell the CC system to turn the AC off because its not getting cooled enough. But the switch has a 3rd unwired port that indicates a lower pressure level which tells you that you need additional air flow. You can get a lead for it at your local dealer and insert it. That will provide a + signal for pressure on that line, which you can convert to ground with another relay (you'll get good at wiring relays by the time you're done with this). Then connect that as an alternate path to ground for one of the fans so it comes on when AC pressure comes up. It's the same pressure switch that the aux fan guys use and there are some good write-ups on it.
Only problem is that that alternate ground confuses the GM computer and it sets a CEL about a bad fan circuit. Haven't figured out how to fix it yet ... probably another relay
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I kept it super simple and used the one wire from the Toyota harness to trigger the compressor and left everything else stock besides the AC lines I made. Has been fine for 5 years and over 70k mi.
Sometimes if I know I’m going have it pinned to the floor I’ll turn the AC off so the compressor doesn’t see 5k+ RPM.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I made a plate similar to yours that mounts to holes in the firewall. Like @EricG below I used a steel pedal that I whacked off and welded the factor cruiser pedal to. It sits in the perfect spot IMO. I can snap pics later if you would like.
Thanks for your help as always. I made a plate out of some random steel I had and then welded mounts for the plate to line up with 2 of the 4 screws that have the steering linkage go through it. I haven't mashed the pedal with road rage yet so the jury is still out if it will last....though it can take a pretty good hit with a hammer before it moves.
Really good info. I actually have 2 engineer buddies who are helping me. We are also swapping a L96 into a Jeep at the sametime. They work for Amazon and Microsoft so I may have some solutions for you guys as well. Like the backup lights. That box for $250 is crazy...hoping we can use a sniffer and decode the canbus and give a solution here.So my GM computer doesn't touch the AC system. The same wires that ran the AC clutch on the Toyota engine run the clutch on the GM engine. And that's the extent of it. The stock Toyota climate control system monitors the engine temperature and will turn off AC if it gets to high. I think it will also turn off AC at WOT. But I didn't attempt to translate those inputs from the GM engine to the Toyota CC system, so driver needs to turn it off as required. The GM computer would do similar, but I haven't explored integrating them, and probably won't. Doesn't meet my pain threshold yet. The only thing that's been a minor problem is that the GM computer can't bump the throttle when the compressor turns on, so on rare occasion the engine will stall if it comes on at idle. I might look into that sometime.
As far as the electric fan control. IIRC, the GM computer provides ground signals to trigger the fan relays. There's a pressure switch on the high side AC line near the DS headlight I think. It has two wires on it: +12v in and 12V out at very high pressure to tell the CC system to turn the AC off because its not getting cooled enough. But the switch has a 3rd unwired port that indicates a lower pressure level which tells you that you need additional air flow. You can get a lead for it at your local dealer and insert it. That will provide a + signal for pressure on that line, which you can convert to ground with another relay (you'll get good at wiring relays by the time you're done with this). Then connect that as an alternate path to ground for one of the fans so it comes on when AC pressure comes up. It's the same pressure switch that the aux fan guys use and there are some good write-ups on it.
Only problem is that that alternate ground confuses the GM computer and it sets a CEL about a bad fan circuit. Haven't figured out how to fix it yet ... probably another relay
Yes, I had the threads pull out and the plate needed to be cut and repositioned/rewelded; you will find that a pretty common complaint.
Today the 6.0 went into the LC 
.
. 
V8 look so normal in an 80. I really want to do one but scared of the fabrication and wiring mess for the dash.Today the 6.0 went into the LC
View attachment 3205235View attachment 3205236View attachment 3205237
I haven't got that far yet, but I think it'll be minimal due to the standalone wiring harness I have.
