'88 1uz 4runner Build

[UhhOhh]

Hey mate,
Cheers for the SC400 oil mount tip it ended up working well. Pretty confident the oem number for the clutch master is: 31410-60371. I swapped the pushrod with the original 4runner one as you can see the cruiser one was too long to use.

 

[UhhOhh]

Hey all,
Got time to upload a few more photos and update this thread. So the runner is going along well almost 5000kms since the new driveline and engine and everything is working as it should. Only a couple of small things like the clutch slave mount and power steer pump needing a seal kit put through it need doing and in my experience with crappy cars I don’t have much to complain about at the moment.
I have moved onto a set of rear drawers for the car that will incorporate a 60 litre water tank with pump, my old chinese twin piston air compressor that won’t die, two amplifiers, a capacitor, an led light strip and two drawers of course! These have been in now for around 1000kms and a few fishing trips up the beach and it’s all working great. As usual I’ll let the pics tell the story:

Start with a box to house the amplifiers/capacitor:

Line the box with carpet and aluminium angle for bling bling:

Make a frame for the drawers:

Here’s the water tank, it cost 90 dollars and holds 59 litres, it will sit underneath the amplifier box:

Attached the amplifier box to the drawer frame so it sits clear of the tank:

Here’s the water tank with the filler, breather and tank gauge sender attached ready to put in:

Quick test for leaks, all good:

 

[UhhOhh]

Here’s the drawer runners supposed to be good for 20kg each so 40kg a drawer, ebay special have used them before in my patrol and they worked well for the money:

Attaching them to the drawer frame:

The drawers were made and got the carpet and aluminium angle treatment. I like to run maximum aluminium for extra offroad capability:

Put a top on the drawer frame:

Putting in the plumbing for the water tank, I’m running a shower neck and laundry tap:

Closer pic:

My never say die twin piston compressor, it sounds like a few rocks rolling round when it runs and has done since new:

Mounted on the opposite side to the plumbing:

Here’s the 12v water pump for the tank/tap mounted on the side of the drawer frame, works awesome can put an extension on the tap and use it as a hose/transfer pump easily:

Using T handle locks with keys for security and pull factor, they work great:

For the leading edge of the drawer top I’m of course using aluminium angle but gluing an led light strip underneath it for tail gate lighting:

Mounting to the drawer top:

Mounted:

You can see the water tank gauge next to the tap on the left, works on batteries and beats guessing how much water you have:

Packed the drawers:

Put a top on the amplifier box and part 1 of the drawer install is done:

Part 2 I will install the audio gear and build a subwoofer box/cargo barrier for the rear, cheers to anyone who’s reading will try and update again soon!

Cheers,
Peter

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Wow nice job. You look like cabinet maker. How much does all that weigh?

 

[UhhOhh]

Wow nice job. You look like cabinet maker. How much does all that weigh?

Thanks mate! I am a paramedic by trade just lucky to have access to some tools to make it all come together easier. As for the weight, I'm using 12mm mdf which is heavy overkill in my opinion for the job, it just happened a few months ago my father and I came into possession of around 100 sheets of the laminated stuff for about 50 dollars so went with what was in surplus. All up I'd guess around 50-60kg not including gear or water if the tank is carrying.

 

[UhhOhh]

04/11/11

Gday again time for another update. The drawers are finished and working great, I then went about installing the audio gear and making a hinged subwoofer box and cargo barrier. The box is secured to the amplifier box and the cargo barrier is bolted through the Toyota “roll bar”. As usual I’ll leave it to the pics to tell most of the story:

First I made the subwoofer box, I used the laminated ply again as it’s in good surplus.

Then carpeted it with marine grade carpet left over from the drawers, a good mix of aluminium angle as is becoming customary

Used a $7 wire terminal box to tidy it up

Then mounted it on top of the amplifier box

Put a hinge on the back of the amplifier box so the box can swing over 180 degrees

Here are the subs and head unit to be used, the head unit is an Eclipse CD5030 have had it in the car for a few weeks now and it’s an excellent simple to use package with all the bits and pieces.

These are the subs Fusion 10 inch 1000 watts each run in parallel

Here they are installed in the sub box, they will be run through a cadence mono block amplifier

Next the speakers, they are a clarion Kevlar 6 speaker component system. They will be run through a bridged 4 channel cadence amplifier

Here is the two amplifiers with a boss audio 2 farad stiffening capacitor

Starting the install

Half way through the wiring

Here they are installed in the amplifier box underneath the subs but above the water tank!

Installed the 6” mid range speaker in the door panel

Had to extend the window arm so I could mount the 6” speaker up high as possible

 

[UhhOhh]

Got some aluminium window winders

All installed and working great

The tweeters installed on the a pillar cover and the 6.5” low ranges were put in the rear where the factory ones sit but I can’t find a picture of that atm

Here’s the head unit installed with my trusty GME TX4200, this UHF has been in every 4wd I have owned and hasn’t missed a beat.

So with the audio side of things in and working well it was time to make the cargo barrier, it all started with some old box and an idea to make two supports that would hug the subwoofer box and be able to rotate from leaning towards the rear of the car to completely folded back the other direction.

Joined the two sides together and a rough shape was becoming apparent

Gave it a clean up, trimmed the rough edges and a coat of primer

The screen was aluminium door screen I found in my mates backyard that has done the job great

Here it is riveted up and painted in some killrust black, you can the two arms that attach to the roll bar via a long bolt/wingnut

Here it is installed back in the car

And from the back showing all the hinges

Here it is with the cargo barrier folded forward

And another one with the subwoofer box swung over to give a (relatively) flat surface to put a mattress on, two lengths of mdf with the bolts that secure them to the roll bar prop it up at the appropriate height. I have temporarily lost the bolts but you get the idea

And that’s the drawers pretty well done, next I’ll be onto a set of rock sliders but apart from that she’s running real well. Last couple of pics were taken from Belmont beach a week ago to show she does get the hubs locked in from time to time.

Cheers to anyone who’s reading!
Peter

 

[N2frodn]

Cool build!

Thanks for posting, especially the feedback on the KS racing bellhousing. In the planning stages of a 1UZ swap in my desert truck, still kicking around all the various gearbox options.

Your issues with the bell seem to be pretty common from what I have read.

 

[UhhOhh]

Cool build!

Thanks for posting, especially the feedback on the KS racing bellhousing. In the planning stages of a 1UZ swap in my desert truck, still kicking around all the various gearbox options.

Your issues with the bell seem to be pretty common from what I have read.

Thanks for the compliment mate. The KS bellhousing is as good as any other I've seen and miles ahead of adapting the auto bellhousing. The quality of the casting appeared to be good, very few imperfections. The holes mounted up really well and, to be honest, if the clutch slave mount is dicky but the input mated up perfect. That would be good enough for me, which it did. Plus it was at least 30% cheaper than any others that made them with just as many reported problems.
Good luck with your build!

 

[UhhOhh]

Gday time for another update have been pretty quiet on the 4runner with Christmas and work but have made a bit of progress. I rebuilt to power steering pump as I felt the alternator had received enough ATF to lubricate it into the next millennium!

I also bought some second hand cooper STT’s to see me through until I can afford to bet some better rubber on it, the 265/75/16’s are fitted to Patrol GU factory 16x8 steelies. I painted them the same colour as the body.

Then I made a set of rod holders for the roof racks as the local police don’t seem to like bulbar rod holders these days and these work great!
Finally I knocked up a set of rock sliders and painted them in charcoal hammertone to break up the grey with a darker grey!

Here’s the pics next update will be a rear bar/wheel carrier for the back so I can get the spare out of the way to start making room for the coil rear that will go in hopefully sometime between next week and next year, but I’m optimistic!

Cheers to anyone who’s reading I will try and update again soon,

Peter

This is a LS400 1UZ power steering pump pulled down, piece of cake to change the seals hardest part was getting a seal kit!

All done and assembled ready to go back in

The Cooper STT’s, better than the standard chromes

The rod holders and obligatory beach shot

 

[UhhOhh]

Now for the sliders I started with some flat

Welded it into U brackets for the chassis

Attached the outriggers

Attached main bar to outriggers

Added to front part of the hoop first

I’m using buttweld fittings for bends over 45 degrees, bow and arrow bender for less.

 

[UhhOhh]

The ebay tube notcher, works alright for the $75 I paid for it. Perfect for a square notch, 45 deg was still fine just needed a little touch up with the grinder.

Part of the rear hoop of the sliders

Attached the front and rear hoops to the main bar

Clapped my hands twice and there was a second set for the other side, cleaned ready to be painted

I’m using charcoal hammertone, 10% thinning sprays on alright.

Coated

And finally a few shots of the finished of the sliders attached to the car

 

[x factor]

Love the look of the tight bends!

 

[UhhOhh]

Love the look of the tight bends!

Cheers mate thanks heaps!~ There's plenty more of that with the rear bar, I will post up some pics in a few days.

 

[UhhOhh]

Gday once again it’s time for an update and a weak excuse as to why I haven’t been working as hard as I should on the truck to get it done sometime before 2022. Now here’s the excuse, a change of job and living situation has caused the 4runner to be put on ice a little although I am still spending a bit of time on it. I know I said this next update would be a rear bar and believe it or not I painted it’s first coat today, all that’s left is to fit it and put on its final coat of hammertone silver.

As for this update I went about and serviced the front hubs which included overhauling the locking hubs, new rotors, larger V6 4runner callipers with a rebuild and new wheel bearings. Once the swaybar bushes are done every bush and bearing in the front end suspension and steering will have been done or be less than 5000kms old. This work wasn’t really needed, apart from a leaky calliper, but I’m happy to do it all and know now that it’s done and I can rely on it for service for when I need it.
Any questions on the calliper rebuild don’t hesitate as the pictures here are not a complete guide on how to do them as it’s a critical job to not stuff up.

Ok time for the pictures:

Here’s the V6 4runner callipers I purchased second hand for $80 for the pair:

As you can see they are worse for wear and could well use a rebuild:

Here’s the code “S13WB”, this is the code for the upgraded callipers, if upgrading look for this code in this place to be sure you have the right ones:

Pulled the dust seals to reveal the pistons:

Starting to crack the caliper into its two halves:

 

[UhhOhh]

I used a vice with a cloth to protect the calliper and to secure it when removing the pistons:

I used compressed air through the brake fluid port to push the pistons out of the housing:

Make sure you retain the piston you are removing with a cloth as when they let go they will fly across the room:

Here’s all eight pistons cleaned with a wire brush ready to reinstall, make sure you don’t scour the piston surface that contacts any seals when brushing:

With the seals and pistons removed I gave the housings a good clean with the wire brush and thinners, then I coated them in some left of high temp paint:

Beginning the reassembly with new seals:

One down, one to go:

All finished with a new set of brake pads ready to go on:

Here’s the old hub setup ready to be removed:

Here’s the two callipers side by side, the size difference is quite noticeable:

 

[UhhOhh]

Here’s the hub with rotor attached and new bearings ready to put back on:

On and ready for the callipers and locking mechanism which copped a clean out and smear of grease:

An important note for anyone doing this, If you are re-using the rotor backing plate it will need trimming away top and bottom in order for the larger calliper housing to fit. It is MUCH easier doing this on the bench but is possible to do with a rotor on and a hacksaw blade, just take care not to mark the rotor:

Bottom cut away:

Here is the finished product all installed ready to roll:

Over all, upon driving these for a few kms and observing the difference in my brakes I can say they were an excellent braking upgrade for my truck and would do them again in a heartbeat. The increased stopping power is more than noticeable and is a great, easy upgrade.

Next update, which I promise will be within a week, will be the first part of my rear bar, which I’m pretty excited to see being painted and put on the truck as I think it turned out great.

Cheers again to anyone who’s following I hope this is of some use to someone!

Peter

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Great stuff, thanks for sharing!!!

 

[UhhOhh]

Gday again,
Time for a quick update on my rear bar, this is just the lower part of the bar the swing away wheel carrier will be knocked up in due time but for now the lower part will have to do. I didn't really anticipate spending this much time on knocking it up however I've come to realise anything "one off" or custom comes with much additional time in measuring, checking, re measuring, fitting, checking and redoing it all together.

The amount of times I had to put the bar on the car only to check a clearance then pull it off again was annoying. This became especially annoying towards the end of the project as continually adding metal to the bar made it pretty heavy (Duh!). In the end the bar came to around 40kg give or take. The cost of metal was around the $150 mark and the latch I added was $20 and the trailer stub axle and hub was around $50. Add another $30 in welding rods and grinding consumable I would have spent around $250 on a bar that suits my needs and tastes.

The second gen 4runner, as I might have mentioned previously, lends itself well to tube bar work, I decided to incorporate a couple of features such as some protection for the rear quarters and a towbar/recovery point. The rear quarter protection was done to line the rear bar up with the sliders which I think aesthetically, worked well.

Anyway enough boring text time for the photos:

First up I removed the old factory bumper and tow bar

I started by making the mounts, they are made from C channel fish plated together for additional strength. I can't remember the dimensions but the channel slides into the chassis rail very tightly.

I then bolted the two mounts in, measured the length between them and welded in some 75mm box in about the 6mm thickness:

I then notched both lower sides of the bar ready for the side bars to be installed:

Here's the trailer stub axle and hub I am using, I tried to get a flangeless hub but when ordering the bloke thought a studless hub was one in the same so that's what I settled with (smacks forehead)

 

[UhhOhh]

Put the plasma cutter to work and left a small part protruding, this will be used as a stop for the swing away wheel carrier:

I'm using a single piece for the section of the lower tube, one to maximise strength and two to try and get practice rhythm with the bow and arrow tube bender:

Another shot to get a better idea of how it sits in the crossmember:

IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/trunx182/IMG_7550.jpg[/IMG]

I cut the trailer stub axle down and notched a piece out of the tube for additional strength, here it is welded into the tube:

Closer shot, you'll see later I welded in a tube support from the C channel mounts for additional strength:

Here it is fitted upto the crossmember:

Clap my hands twice and there is a lower tube section for the other side:

Different angle/tacking all in place:

I had a huge amount of trouble locating a hitch receiver tube so in the end I bought a towbar to butcher for its receiver tube: