'88 1uz 4runner Build

[UhhOhh]

Now for the sad news, after about two weeks of taking her up the beach fishing and generally shaking it down with very few issues a worm drive clamp which held the outlet to the remote oil filter split (never heard of this before??) which meant the hose going to the filter was unclamped and soon worked its way off. It happened to fall off while I was doing about 100km/hr with the first thing I knew was oil burning on the exhaust. I pulled over straight away but sadly the damage had been done and the engine was running dry.

Here’s a short vid of it running after I reattached the hose and dumped a new bottle of oil in (bit of a waste but didn’t know the extent at the time):

YouTube - video 2011 03 22 18 08 011

Time for a new engine which couldn’t have come at a worse time so I have deregistered it and it’s sitting in the driveway until I can source a replacement motor and some time to fit it. I’ll do the r150f gearbox conversion at the same time which I have the bellhousing and all bits to do as well as a gear driven transfer on the back which I have the adapter for as well. Depending on the time I might just go the whole way and fit the 4runner coil rear to it in one go while it’s off the road. Spewing about the 2 dollar clamp failing and blowing up my engine but that’s life I guess, she will come back bigger and better then before!!

Cheers to anyone who’s reading hope to have some progress soon,

Peter

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

What a bummer man!!! Just sit back and try not to think about it for a little while, then come back with a fresh head, and start on it like it's a new project!

 

[UhhOhh]

What a bummer man!!! Just sit back and try not to think about it for a little while, then come back with a fresh head, and start on it like it's a new project!

Thanks dude! Was pretty much my thinking hopefully be able to make some progress soon.

 

[UhhOhh]

Small update here as there is small amounts of movement around spooky. I have only had a few days to work on her so it’s just been a pain but due to alot of fish on the beach at the moment I am chomping at the bit to get the replacement engine/gearbox etc back in the car and get it running again so I can get up the beach once more.

The 1uz is definitely a pain in the arse engine to work with, disassembling took longer than I thought mainly to do with the loom being layered throughout the engine. But that’s all good, I should have some more updates soon. Now that the engine is out I can clean up the engine bay/underside of car and repaint it all. There are a few plugs that need replacing on the loom and a new clutch line and a brake line that needs to be made and am waiting for my uncle to come home so I can borrow his flaring tool.
Any tips putting the engine back together are welcome.

Cheers guys,

Peter

 

[UhhOhh]

Btw here’s a few pics.

Engine partially dismantled

..getting there

This is the replacement engine I bought for a steal ($500), new water pump/timing belt/tensioner/plugs included

Most of the intake dismantled

 

[UhhOhh]

Pulling her out (pretty tight fit but no huge dramas)

Here’s the sump I pulled off you can see all the pretty shiny flakes of metal in it hehe

Here’s the two engines side by side ready to swap over all the ancillaries, injection and ignition gear.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Glad it's on the way back to life!

 

[Grouseman]

Great Job

I'm starting a project like yours now. I'm using Rustoleum though. My first coat looks decent. I'll put pictures on here soon.

 

[TheMAN]

any chance you can fit a jubilee clamp on the oil hose? they are much more reliable than those worm gear clamps you were using.... an oetiker clamp is even better but they are very hard to find

if you were to use the worm gear clamp again though, perhaps you should think about putting on a zip tie around the hose as a backup

 

[UhhOhh]

Glad it's on the way back to life!

Thanks mate~!

I'm starting a project like yours now. I'm using Rustoleum though. My first coat looks decent. I'll put pictures on here soon.

Rustoleum should work much the same. Make sure you put at least 2 coats down, I put a single coat on a few places (ie. fuel filler door), mainly due to lack of time, and it's not sufficient to protect the metal. Most of the body got 3-4 coats and its holding up excellent touch wood.

any chance you can fit a jubilee clamp on the oil hose? they are much more reliable than those worm gear clamps you were using.... an oetiker clamp is even better but they are very hard to find

if you were to use the worm gear clamp again though, perhaps you should think about putting on a zip tie around the hose as a backup

I have ordered a new adapter (from the US of A) and this time it will have provisions for threaded fittings so no more clamps. The worm drive should have held no problems it appeared to be a manufacturing defect as it snapped across the face of the clamp almost like a metal fatigue. Oh well s*** happens sometimes hehe

 

[TheMAN]

is it possible to do away with the oil filter relocator? I hate adding aftermarket junk under the hood that adds weak links/points of failures

 

[toyminator]

is it possible to do away with the oil filter relocator? I hate adding aftermarket junk under the hood that adds weak links/points of failures

Use the Oil filter mount from an SC400. It will fit

 

[UhhOhh]

is it possible to do away with the oil filter relocator? I hate adding aftermarket junk under the hood that adds weak links/points of failures

Use the Oil filter mount from an SC400. It will fit

My only hope to do away with remote mounting is if the Soarer (SC400) oil filter bracket fits. Luckily the engine I bought was out of a soarer and has this type bracket so will keep my fingers crossed it does as I also hate the idea of remote oil filters.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[TheMAN]

hope it works!

oh yeah, I advise you to use grey silicone gasket maker instead of any other colour... the grey stuff is designed for higher clamping forces and heat.... the blue/black/red stuff is typically for less of that; american engines

 

[toyminator]

My only hope to do away with remote mounting is if the Soarer (SC400) oil filter bracket fits. Luckily the engine I bought was out of a soarer and has this type bracket so will keep my fingers crossed it does as I also hate the idea of remote oil filters.

Cheers,
Peter

Mine fits.

 

[UhhOhh]

hope it works!

oh yeah, I advise you to use grey silicone gasket maker instead of any other colour... the grey stuff is designed for higher clamping forces and heat.... the blue/black/red stuff is typically for less of that; american engines

Cheers for the tip I'll look for it next time I buy a tube.

Mine fits.

Great to know, there are a couple of reasons why mine may not be suitable. The first is the engine is mounted lower and further forward than others I have looked at and may get in the way of the bash plate or chassis gusset. The second reason is I have coolant hoses running around that area too. But yeah I'll post up the results at the moment I'm giving it a 70% chance I'll make it work.

 

[toyminator]

Great to know, there are a couple of reasons why mine may not be suitable. The first is the engine is mounted lower and further forward than others I have looked at and may get in the way of the bash plate or chassis gusset. The second reason is I have coolant hoses running around that area too. But yeah I'll post up the results at the moment I'm giving it a 70% chance I'll make it work.

Mine is mounted pretty low too. I'm not sure whether it's an advantage or not but over here the oil filter is on the same side as the steering. To help with steering shaft clearance I mounted the engine about 1/2 to the right.

 

[UhhOhh]

Mine is mounted pretty low too. I'm not sure whether it's an advantage or not but over here the oil filter is on the same side as the steering. To help with steering shaft clearance I mounted the engine about 1/2 to the right.

Ah right yeah steering box on the left in Aus though the idler arm is on the chassis same side as the factory filter. See how we go I guess worst case is fit the remote filter and blow another engine hehe no that won't be happening again.

 

[UhhOhh]

1/06/11
Gday again,
So huge update time! I got a few more days to work on spooky and have made some progress with the delivery of a new top end gasket set and the new bellhousing among other things. I’ll let the pics tell the story:
With the engine out came a good opportunity to clean up the engine bay, give it a coat of paint and rearrange a few things like some wiring, washer bottle.

Got underneath and brushed on some old body deadener. It was so thick even thinning it down a bit it came off like tar. Because I was painting it on in a pit it was dropping all over me and I got so pissed of trying not to let it drop on me I just gave up and got coated. Here’s a pic after a good 30 minutes of covering myself in turps.

Got it all done and came up looking better than before

Fitted a new clutch master and ran a new clutch line, also ran the passenger brake line as I snared this when pulling the engine out.

Here’s the bellhousing conversion kit I’m using. I got it from Thailand from “NSracing”, a guy named Narin. Landed here for the bellhousing was around $420 plus $80 for a new fork/throwout/boot/slave. Good value I’m hoping so far it has mated up the R150f well and the alloy casting , not without it’s imperfections, seems good too. The foreground is the chain to gear drive adapter which I’ll use when I get round to fitting the twins.

Here’s the bellhousing mated to the R150f. I have retained the chain drive on the back for a couple of reasons. 1) It is still a gear drive speedo so mine will work with it 2) I don’t have all the parts for the twins and don’t want to rush it. So the chain will do for now. I gave the gearbox a coat of “just reconditioned” silver for a little bling.

 

[UhhOhh]

Got a gasket kit from the states on good old ebay, complete top end set including head gaskets, stem seal, valve cover, spark plug guides, exhaust manifold and various paper gaskets as well. All up was $105 delivered to my door.

Went about painting a few bits and pieces from the top end, here’s the valve covers after a good wire brush.

Here they are painted with new spark plug tube gaskets fitted

Here’s the upper inlet manifold, cross coolant casting, valve covers and one of the spark plug covers all painted in aluminium.

Plenty of black plastics been sprayed, should look great when it goes back on.