So, I've been dealing some electrical issues resulting in the ignition not wanting to turn the starter over intermittently. And then a couple of weeks ago, three lights lit up on the dashboard all at the same time: AT Temp, Battery, and Brake. Which is odd cause there's not much in common with any of those.
Then a cold snap hit us here in the OKC area and 4Runner was refusing to do anything. I thought it might have been a bad EFI/Starter Relay as I did recently replace it. So, I picked up a new one, and as I was turning the ignition, I noticed the dome light dim. Odd. Checked the battery. Low on charge and the system voltage was only 11v. No wonder the ignition and the EFI/Starter Relay was not working as they need 12v at a minimum to work.
That led me to think that the issue was with either the alternator or the battery. But both are fairly new. Battery was purchased last July and the alternator was replaced about 5 years ago when the engine was rebuilt and probably only has a few thousand miles on it, but did sit for a few years before I acquired it. So that lead me to thinking it might be the voltage regulator.
I headed to one of the autoparts store and did find one that had the equipment to perform a load test on the battery so we could rule that out. Battery passed of course. They were also able to test the alternator with the same tool and the alternator passed, but the voltage regulator did not. So, now I'm looking around for new voltage regulator. But all the ones I see online don't look like the one I thought was in my 4Runner. Which has me wondering what this block with fins behind my fusebox on the passenger side of the engine bay is.
So after doing some more digging, I've now figured out that Toyota (I'm a noob to Toyota), has the voltage regulator inside of the alternator! So after looking at the cost of a new voltage regulator and an alternator, there's not much difference in price. Depending on brand, a rebuilt alternator is cheaper than the voltage regulators that are available. So here are my questions:
Then a cold snap hit us here in the OKC area and 4Runner was refusing to do anything. I thought it might have been a bad EFI/Starter Relay as I did recently replace it. So, I picked up a new one, and as I was turning the ignition, I noticed the dome light dim. Odd. Checked the battery. Low on charge and the system voltage was only 11v. No wonder the ignition and the EFI/Starter Relay was not working as they need 12v at a minimum to work.
That led me to think that the issue was with either the alternator or the battery. But both are fairly new. Battery was purchased last July and the alternator was replaced about 5 years ago when the engine was rebuilt and probably only has a few thousand miles on it, but did sit for a few years before I acquired it. So that lead me to thinking it might be the voltage regulator.
I headed to one of the autoparts store and did find one that had the equipment to perform a load test on the battery so we could rule that out. Battery passed of course. They were also able to test the alternator with the same tool and the alternator passed, but the voltage regulator did not. So, now I'm looking around for new voltage regulator. But all the ones I see online don't look like the one I thought was in my 4Runner. Which has me wondering what this block with fins behind my fusebox on the passenger side of the engine bay is.
So after doing some more digging, I've now figured out that Toyota (I'm a noob to Toyota), has the voltage regulator inside of the alternator! So after looking at the cost of a new voltage regulator and an alternator, there's not much difference in price. Depending on brand, a rebuilt alternator is cheaper than the voltage regulators that are available. So here are my questions:
- Replace the voltage regulator or replace the alternator? Cost wise, they're pretty close in price.
- What is that part behind my fuse box with fins connected to the harness with the same 3 prong plug as the one going to my alternator?
- If a I buy a new alternator, is it worth finding a unit with more amp output from a different Toyota model? And does anyone know of one off the top of their head that is nearly bolt in?
- I've heard of people switching their older Toyota's over to a 1 wire GM style alternator. Anyone done that?