So I finally figured out a better way to remove those pesky cone washers in the hub. Mine was full of RTV and gunk.
cleaned with wire hand brush and WD 40.
Then tapped the studs with brass drift at the tip of the stud to max leverage.
Then tapped the hub casing with a two hammers on opposite sides and worked my way around ( much like removing tie rod ends)
results -first one took 60 minutes, last one took 15 minute......
There goes 90 minutes I didn’t plan on. For some reason all of the drain and fill plugs for the axles and transfer case we’re completely chewed up this is the last one to get out and it did not want to go.
So I finally figured out a better way to remove those pesky cone washers in the hub. Mine was full of RTV and gunk.
cleaned with wire hand brush and WD 40.
Then tapped the studs with brass drift at the tip of the stud to max leverage.
Then tapped the hub casing with a two hammers on opposite sides and worked my way around ( much like removing tie rod ends)
results -first one took 60 minutes, last one took 15 minute......
When I remove cone washers I leave the nut on just in from the edge of the stud. Then I use a brass punch on the end of the stud. I do not tap the end of the stud but hit it hard. It's the shock that causes the cone washer to pop loose. Keeping the nut on will clean the thread on the tip of the stud when the nut is removed.
Sometimes I feel like an archaeologist, Lots of digging but finally got the last of the really dirty parts scraped clean. A little final cleanup then I’ll be ready for paint. New parts are starting to trickle in which is always exciting,
thanks to Bryce at cruiser outfitters help me sort out some parts and suggested a nice cost saving option, cheers!
Hope to get the blasting cabinet up and running soon for the final cleanup on some small parts.
I’m not sure if I should stay with the stock hubs or install some Warn free wheelers, any thoughts?
Finished cleaning up the front axle, and made my best stab at fabricating factory style lower shock mounting tabs. From the drawings and photos I saw this is how the axle should’ve been configured.
The donor front crossmember I received still had some chunks of the frame attached, I was able to cut my tabs out of that steel since it’s about the same thickness and came from the same factory, I know score
Parts are starting to come together and hopefully I’ll be able to start some real reassembly on the frame and suspension next week.
I had real trouble finding the right bushings for the strange leaf springs finally found some pro comps that should fit pretty well
On November 7 I drove the troopy into the shop to start the rebuild. Today at noon I actually started putting in fresh pieces and began the reassembly process. I got to tell you it’s a lot more fun putting fresh clean parts together than
cleaning up all crappy ones.
I also have a confession to make I’ve been known to leave bearing races in and reuse them because they’re such a pain in the butt to get out. I love the fact that the Toyota engineers maybe so easy to pop out.
So many of the factory nuts and bolts were damaged and I didn’t really want to spend the Time and money and piece meal replacement and then having them all plated so I splurged and got a big box from Overland metric, nice set up really look like factory and it really finishes it off to have that bling
I also picked up a pilot bearing removal tool to take out the inner seals, a real lifesaver two minutes aside and they pop right out
Hey guys , Looking down the road I have some thoughts and would like your opinions.....
While I plan to keep this as stock as possible I also want to make it more comfortable if I can.
Thinking about adding power steering, using the mini truck swap - thoughts?
Since it was from Saudi Arabia, she has no heater , I was thinking about an after market HVAC system ( like vintage air) but I can not imagine that AC system would keep up with a big tin can on a hot day. So instead I was thinking about adding a front and rear heating / defrost system. I would like stock heater if I can find it but that may be cost prohibitive.
Anyone running an after market AC system in a troopy and does it cool that big of a space?
I'm running the Vintage Air with their updated high flow blower in my 40 with a soft top and it keeps it more than cool enough in Houston's hot humid summers. I would think with a fixed roof it would keep the cool in that much better. I would try just the front system before going through the effort of setting up a rear system that you may not end up needing.
There is an oem 40 power steering box for sale in the classifieds right now. Otherwise if you're not going too big on your tires the mini truck set up should be ok.
I'm running the Vintage Air with their updated high flow blower in my 40 with a soft top and it keeps it more than cool enough in Houston's hot humid summers. I would think with a fixed roof it would keep the cool in that much better. I would try just the front system before going through the effort of setting up a rear system that you may not end up needing.
There is an oem 40 power steering box for sale in the classifieds right now. Otherwise if you're not going too big on your tires the mini truck set up should be ok.
Regarding the steering, I did not even think PS would be an option from the factory on the '82 - but that makes sense. Thanks for the tip I will explore that route.
Ps was an option on Saudi spec 45’s. The factory ps gearbox is expensive and hard to find. The best part is they bolt up to your existing pedestal. If you go mini truck you need to run an aftermarket pedestal. I have mini truck ps on my Troopy. It is more of a power assist, Not like a 1 finger Saginaw. It does fine with stock tire size, but anything bigger than a 33 I would do Saginaw.
Ps was an option on Saudi spec 45’s. The factory ps gearbox is expensive and hard to find. The best part is they bolt up to your existing pedestal. If you go mini truck you need to run an aftermarket pedestal. I have mini truck ps on my Troopy. It is more of a power assist, Not like a 1 finger Saginaw. It does fine with stock tire size, but anything bigger than a 33 I would do Saginaw.
Got it - Thanks
I will stay with stock wheels and tires. I'm thinking - get up and running and see how she works with new tie rod ends, and refreshed steering components. If it is not good ( just too much work), I can start hunting for the necessary parts for a up-grade
I was hoping to get the leaf springs and axles back in place but hit a snag getting the necessary bushings in time while I’m waiting for that to get sorted out with the vendor cleaned some threads and started installing the parts that were ready. Plus I resealed and inspected the transmission and transfer case. I’m looking at the engine and not sure how much I want to tear into it definitely replace the seals I can and the freeze plugs. Since it’s running strong I don’t think I’ll take the head off
So far so good, no script or busted bolts just some pretty thick gasket sealer in a few spots. Luckily the oil pan dropped right off I’m taking a break before I tackle the water pump that’s the one I’m a little bit worried about