80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod (2 Viewers)

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Godwin

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This began a year ago when I had a rear semi-floater bearing blow up 200 miles from home. I use my FJ60 on an almost daily basis often travelling hundreds of miles from home and it runs about a thousand pounds over stock weight. The rear axle bearing had less than 50,000 miles on it so having it blow up was unexpected and I began to think about a FF conversion. Having a spare 80 series axle lying around helped.

After some consideration and reading I decided to have the 80 series axle converted to run under the FJ60. Justin @nvrlose54 stripped the bracketry and welded on stock FJ60 spring perches cut from an ‘84 axle housing.

The rear axle has an e-locker (4.10 ratio) and needed to be rebuilt (shipped to Zuk Toyota Gear Install Harrop), the pinion gears were a little crunchy. I bought this axle used and had never closely examined it but the price was right.

I had to purchase new calipers, rotors, brake pads, and soft lines. Rockauto supplied the hard parts and Toyota the soft lines. New hard line was bent and the brake tube junction and vent placed on the right side of the axle in FJ60 location. I used OEM soft brake line part # 96940-34705 for the frame to axle line. 80 series e-brake cable was mounted up.

With the rear I gained a full floater, disc brakes, and locker.

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With the rear axle coming together I began to think about the front. Adding the rear 80 series axle would increase the width about 2”. I did not want to run spacers so I considered the Tundra brake mod which would 1) dispense with spacers, and 2) provide improved braking, something badly needed with an overloaded FJ60. This thread greatly helped Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod

I had an extra unused FJ62 housing and built that up with a set of leftover 1984 knuckles swapped side to side. The knuckles were rebuilt with new bearings, etc. from Cruiser Outfitter along with new tie and relay rod ends.

To use the Tundra calipers brackets from FROR were ordered and instead of using the included bolts went with bolts purchased from McMaster-Carr (@Randy88FJ62 posted part numbers in Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod). I wanted more caliper bolt thread engagement than that provided with the FROR brackets and had @nvrlose54 added nuts that I purchased from McMaster-Carr.

I picked up Tundra calipers and rotors from a salvage yard. These have the casting number S13WE and I think the year is 2002. I went with Advics brake pads (AD0812) with the calipers.

@Randy88FJ62 supplied 4Runner IFS hubs machined to accept the Tundra rotors.

I retained the stock FJ62 brake line and used stock front FJ60 frame to axle soft brake lines (part # 96940-33005; 2 needed) to connect the hard axle brake line to calipers.

A stock rear FJ60 frame to axle soft line (part # 96940-33805) was used as the front frame to axle brake line. Front diff is FJ62 with 4.11.

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To finish out the brake system I purchased a new 80 series brake booster from City Racer and used a non-ABS brake master cylinder (part # Advics AZ BMT-090).

I’ve been running an OME heavy plus suspension for about 250K miles and it had gotten a little saggy under all the constant weight. Since I had to essentially disassemble the suspension to install the new axles I decided to replace the springs with new OME heavy as possible springs (another call to Cruiser Outfitter). I installed Bilsteins a year or two ago and retained those.

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The spring plates I think came from a FJ62, are reinforced underneath; rear 6-60052, and front 9-60021 stamped on.

If that wasn’t enough my steering box was bleeding like a stuck pig so I sourced a used 80 series box from a salvage yard in Mississippi, yanked the 80 series pitman arm, installed the 60 series pitman arm and mounted the box.

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New tires were needed and I went with Yokohama 255/85/16 Geolander G003 on 70 series wheels.

I completed the major work on a Tuesday, drove the 60 to work on Wednesday and Thursday, total mileage about 150, to get a feel for it and look for issues. On Friday with a loaded FJ60 drove 500 miles from AL to southern IL to attend the Events/Trails - Southern (tip) Swine Soirée - SSS 2019 Oct 25-27.

I like this new setup. Steering and suspension felt great on the highway. Brakes are dramatically improved. Repeat, brakes are dramatically improved. At the SSS we drove rocky, muddy trails, and ran a gravelly road that followed a stream with 13 water crossings. I’ve put about 1500 miles on this setup now and am quite pleased with the results.

I’m not finished as I still have to wire up the e-locker.

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Great write up Godwin. Nice to have you confirm that 16" wheels work with the Tundra rotors and calipers.
 
whats your take on the functionality of the rear parking brake using the 80 axle? Along the same line of thought whats your take on the brakes overall performance with now 4wheel disk vs stock 60 setup?

I've thought about doing something similar to what you have done...in my case swapping over to a 80 rear axle and set it up for leafsprings.... etc.
 
Bitch’n write-up. Want to see how you work out the rear elocker. I have hopes to retro fit the H4 trans button space for the 80 series locker dial.

Just FYI, they have 2 versions of the tundra brakes early and late. Late style is the upgraded casting because of issues with pre-mature brake wear. Not at all sure if it will matter for your application.

I would think that the size/casting difference may effect the wheels you can run. I have the 13WL casting and run 17” wheels.

 
whats your take on the functionality of the rear parking brake using the 80 axle? Along the same line of thought whats your take on the brakes overall performance with now 4wheel disk vs stock 60 setup?

I've thought about doing something similar to what you have done...in my case swapping over to a 80 rear axle and set it up for leafsprings.... etc.

Overall brake performance, IMO, is greatly improved. Pedal feel is not too hard, nor too soft and I have good consistent brake control throughout the downward movement of the pedal. I've tried other combinations (4Runner calipers, 4Runner or 80 series booster) and the braking was never this good nor had the same feel of control to it.

Parking functionality is equal to that of an 80 series because that's what it is. The cable will 95% bolt up. A new support tab had to be welded on the axle housing to support the longitudinal to lateral cable junction. Bolts up to p-brake handle. 80 series p-brakes are adjusted differently but once adjusted will work.
 
Great write up Godwin. Nice to have you confirm that 16" wheels work with the Tundra rotors and calipers.
Just FYI, they have 2 versions of the tundra brakes early and late. Late style is the upgraded casting because of issues with pre-mature brake wear. Not at all sure if it will matter for your application.

I would think that the size/casting difference may effect the wheels you can run. I have the 13WL casting and run 17” wheels.


I can only confirm that the S13WE castings work with a stock 16" wheel. I think these are the smaller calipers. I tried an aftermarket 16" and had some interference with the wheel face somewhere; only bolted it on enough to check fitment.

If the 13WL caliper is larger that may require a 17" wheel.

I cannot state which year Tundra to use for calipers. I went to a salvage yard and requested brakes from 2005 or earlier and received the 13WEs. When I ordered brake pads I used the 2005 year and received pads (Advics AD0976) that were too large to fit. Dropped down to 2002 and re-orded a set of pads and those fit.

So I have a set of NIB Advics AD0976 brake pads if anyone needs them. I'll give you a deal on them.

Also do not order the Tundra soft brake lines that run from hard line on axle to caliper. Fittings on one end will not match.
 
So why did you not also go with a 80 series front axle? Curious because I'm planning out my 60.
 
Great write-up @Godwin

One question I’ve got: any weird behavior in 4WD with 4.10 in the rear axle and 4.11 in the front axle? I’m thinking probably not since 4WD should only be active in loose terrain, just curious what you experienced.

I wish I would have realized SSS 2019 was in Southern Illinois this year. I caught it the Friday before. Probably from @wngrog on Instagram. Next time!

:cheers:
 
Overall brake performance, IMO, is greatly improved. Pedal feel is not too hard, nor too soft and I have good consistent brake control throughout the downward movement of the pedal. I've tried other combinations (4Runner calipers, 4Runner or 80 series booster) and the braking was never this good nor had the same feel of control to it.

Parking functionality is equal to that of an 80 series because that's what it is. The cable will 95% bolt up. A new support tab had to be welded on the axle housing to support the longitudinal to lateral cable junction. Bolts up to p-brake handle. 80 series p-brakes are adjusted differently but once adjusted will work.


Well.....I'm going to do something ....on the rear brakes because I need the brakes to work better for sure and stay in adjustment. I've narrowed things down to (1) swapping over to a 80 rear axle setup (2) swapping over disk brake components to the 60 rear axle. I do have concerns about the parking brake....I actually want it to work and I don't think a line-lock is a great option, since it you loose hydraulics you line lock become toast, and a line lock does exactly what it says...it locks the brakes hydraulically....no gradual application or proportional/linear application ...either on or off. I'm just not satisfied with the rear brakes on the 60...I've heard feedback from many but in my "eyes" the design of the rear brake adjustment setup on the 60 is not good. Also if I lock the parking brake I want it lock the brakes fully. I've been on some crazy hills and other things and brake performance was a problem...to include the parking brake..(of course I"m talking crazy for a FJ60).
 
To finish out the brake system I purchased a new 80 series brake booster from City Racer and used a non-ABS brake master cylinder (part # Advics AZ BMT-090).

I’ve been running an OME heavy plus suspension for about 250K miles and it had gotten a little saggy under all the constant weight. Since I had to essentially disassemble the suspension to install the new axles I decided to replace the springs with new OME heavy as possible springs (another call to Cruiser Outfitter). I installed Bilsteins a year or two ago and retained those.

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Is that a generic brake booster tool or specific for the 60 and 80s series landcruiser? A link would be good for that.
 
Godwin,
I believe that the 13WL Casting works on 16" wheels from what was said in the Tundra Mod Thread. Now you are making me nervous because I have 13WL Calipers sitting in my garage waiting to do this upgrade.
 
So why did you not also go with a 80 series front axle? Curious because I'm planning out my 60.

Because I already had a spare 60 series front axle and 4.11 diff and never gave a serious thought to using an 80 series. To use an 80 series I'd have to find one, buy it, have it modified for leaf springs, etc.
 
Great write-up @Godwin

One question I’ve got: any weird behavior in 4WD with 4.10 in the rear axle and 4.11 in the front axle? I’m thinking probably not since 4WD should only be active in loose terrain, just curious what you experienced.

I wish I would have realized SSS 2019 was in Southern Illinois this year. I caught it the Friday before. Probably from @wngrog on Instagram. Next time!

:cheers:

Difference between 4.10 and 4.11 is less than insignificant.
 
Is that a generic brake booster tool or specific for the 60 and 80s series landcruiser? A link would be good for that.


Can't beat the price.
 
Because I already had a spare 60 series front axle and 4.11 diff and never gave a serious thought to using an 80 series. To use an 80 series I'd have to find one, buy it, have it modified for leaf springs, etc.
The rear 80s swap is enough work... 😁
 

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