Great write up!! The rear FF axle swap is something I have on my "list". I bet this thing stops awesome now!
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Understood. My thought currently is that an 80 front would give the option of an e-locker just like your rear has plus give the high pinion (although smaller R&P). Plus, that would also solve the different width front to rear issue and give good front brakes. And I see that TorFab did a coil setup in the front which would be totally sweet. However, I do appreciate knowing that there are other options. Options are good. Thanks!Because I already had a spare 60 series front axle and 4.11 diff and never gave a serious thought to using an 80 series. To use an 80 series I'd have to find one, buy it, have it modified for leaf springs, etc.
Actually I just played around with my new 80's axle elockers. 12 v works fine. This video explains how to wire it up with a diagram at the end. Pretty simple, just use a multimeter to figure out which wires are for the limit switches. For the relays I believe these are the spdt ones off later model Toyotas. I'll get an old fuse box from the wreckers and hack it up for the relay mount positions. Edit: I dont know if these relays will work but they have 5 pins like they should (the similar ones off my earlier 4runner only have 4 pins and I assume are only spst). Looks like Toyota moved to the 5 pin relays after around 2000. I need to confirm the wiring schematics.My understanding of the E-lockers is that they need to run through the FZJ's computer. They can't be actuated by 12V and a relay. Cable conversions are around $500 an axle. Happy to be proven wrong but there are several threads lamenting this in the 80's Forum.
whats the purpose of the brake booster tool? Is that to gauge the "throw" on the pedal adjustment?
My understanding of the E-lockers is that they need to run through the FZJ's computer. They can't be actuated by 12V and a relay. Cable conversions are around $500 an axle. Happy to be proven wrong but there are several threads lamenting this in the 80's Forum.
wrong. Done it underneath the truck with jumper cables. On the trail. In the rain. No fun.
To set the proper push rod depth of the brake booster into the well of the master cylinder.
Perhaps someone who's hacked the E-locker and operated it for several years would like to share his results.
See post #26. I made it work 2 days ago. It costs two relays, a switch, some wires, and mounting hardware.not to throw darts, but I'm fairly sure I recall reading where someone on the board was making a harness for the front and rear 80 series e locker, where you could simply control the on / off function. I may be wrong, since I don't own an 80 I did not pay a whole lot of attention to that. Some may argues the values of the OEM locker vs ARB, but if you have a e-locker 80 series axle assembly with all the parts, and they were functional....I would see about what it might take to get it to work, without spending crazy money.
is there a defined spec on that? I think I've been guilty of just getting things to work, I've only swapped the brake booster one time so I can' t claim any great insight. I think there was some discussion about the starting depth or something as i recall. Is this something that is critical.... in the big picture on the boosting . I'm asking because I never paid much attention to it and maybe I should have. I may need to get around to looking into what my setup is. I think I have a 4runner brake booster at this point.
This post is awesome timing Jim. I have my rear 80 axle with locker which I will most likely convert to leaf springs, for all the reasons you did.
For the front, I want to have the same track width so the options now seem to be:
1) front 80 axle with factory locker (bought it a couple weeks ago) with a front 80 coil suspension conversion from Torfab, or we'll see what Trail Tailor comes up with in a few months. The disadvantage of this is the weaker 8" diff on the 80 axle. But apparently the unlocked diffs are weaker than the locked ones and I have a locked one. And apparently they are weak when going backwards so you'd have to be careful going backwards up a hill when stuck. See Cruiser 9" vs 8" high pinion strength.
2) front 60 axle as you have done. The advantage is the stronger diff. The disadvantage is the lack of factory locker. As you explain, the Tundra brake mod takes care of the track width issue. Up until now, the 60 front axle would require leaf springs but Trail Tailor says he will be developing a kit to change to 80 series front coils for a 60 axle, so I'm interested to see what he will find.
So for now I'll focus on the rear axle conversion until I sort out the front.
Here is a photo of a cool snake here in BC, a once in a lifetime sighting. We saved him from getting squished.
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