Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I did the magic with the t-case bolted on .. some massage on the tunnel and 2 0 3 hours later was on .. LOL !
80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
- Start date
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I did the same, @Tapage. And like Nick said, on a hoist and with a transmission jack, we did the duo in about 30 mins. That was the morning after the 4 hour installation the night before... :thumbsup:
- Thread starter
- #83
HUGE PITA right?? Was not fun on the garage floor, but the 2 by 4 sure did the trick to get the thing the rest of the way on!
- Thread starter
- #84
Reverse Lights
This has been a topic that hasn't really been explained in detail on the forum. It's been mentioned in bits and pieces but I'm going to put the issue to bed.
The H151F and H150F have one electrical component which has 2 wires sticking out of it. It is just a switch (like a light switch in your house) which closes a set of contacts when the reverse gear is selected.
The auto did the same thing, but in conjunction with a million other wires that are connected to the auto indicator loop on the dash.
WIRE COLOURS:
The reverse circuit will be completed by the following wire matching DEPENDING ON WHAT YEAR TRUCK YOU HAVE.
On mine: Blue wire (reverse circuit) and Black wire (12V hot)
Other trucks: Red with black stripes (reverse circuit) and Yellow (12V hot)
First, I chopped off the harness from the selector on the auto trans. This is the big grey harness in the engine bay which connects to the auto trans.
I connected it in the truck in the engine bay, and tried wires (with the ignition in the ON position) until the lights turned on (thanks @danakittilsen !!!).
With the 91 RHD HDJ81, it turns out that the BLUE wire (Reverse circuit) and BLACK wire (12V hot) connect to make the reverse lights turn on.
FOR THE REST OF YOU! The wires that make the reverse circuit will be RED with BLACK stripes (Reverse Circuit) and YELLOW (12V hot).
Then I found the female connector that would connect to the harness that came with the H151F. The connector looks like this:
Remember this is the FEMALE end, not the end that's on the transmission (which is a male).
Then I connected the leads on the harness to the reverse circuit and 12V hot wires on the big grey auto harness and stuffed the bundle of extra wires in a bunch of electrical tape:
Then I just connected it to the harnesses on the truck and away you go.
I taped my wires to the harness that goes to the transfer case for good measure so the wires wouldn't be freely going all over the place.
This has been a topic that hasn't really been explained in detail on the forum. It's been mentioned in bits and pieces but I'm going to put the issue to bed.
The H151F and H150F have one electrical component which has 2 wires sticking out of it. It is just a switch (like a light switch in your house) which closes a set of contacts when the reverse gear is selected.
The auto did the same thing, but in conjunction with a million other wires that are connected to the auto indicator loop on the dash.
WIRE COLOURS:
The reverse circuit will be completed by the following wire matching DEPENDING ON WHAT YEAR TRUCK YOU HAVE.
On mine: Blue wire (reverse circuit) and Black wire (12V hot)
Other trucks: Red with black stripes (reverse circuit) and Yellow (12V hot)
First, I chopped off the harness from the selector on the auto trans. This is the big grey harness in the engine bay which connects to the auto trans.
I connected it in the truck in the engine bay, and tried wires (with the ignition in the ON position) until the lights turned on (thanks @danakittilsen !!!).
With the 91 RHD HDJ81, it turns out that the BLUE wire (Reverse circuit) and BLACK wire (12V hot) connect to make the reverse lights turn on.
FOR THE REST OF YOU! The wires that make the reverse circuit will be RED with BLACK stripes (Reverse Circuit) and YELLOW (12V hot).
Then I found the female connector that would connect to the harness that came with the H151F. The connector looks like this:
Remember this is the FEMALE end, not the end that's on the transmission (which is a male).
Then I connected the leads on the harness to the reverse circuit and 12V hot wires on the big grey auto harness and stuffed the bundle of extra wires in a bunch of electrical tape:
Then I just connected it to the harnesses on the truck and away you go.
I taped my wires to the harness that goes to the transfer case for good measure so the wires wouldn't be freely going all over the place.
- Thread starter
- #85
Manual Trans Breather
This part I may have gone a little overboard with but what the hell...
I bought an OEM breather assembly from Partsouq with a bunch of hose clamps. This is the OEM part number for the breather that connects to the H151F in stock form.
33019-60011 H151F breather assembly
96132-41000 Breather tube clamps (cheap on Partsouq so get a bunch!)
Turns out the hose on the breather assembly is really short. I had no idea where the stock mounting location was so I decided I would mount it on the stock location of the ATF filler tube.
I hammered flat head screwdriver into the bracket to get the short hose off the breather assembly and bolted it onto the location where the ATF filler was.
Then I took the long hose that was connected to the auto breather, (which is the same inner diameter as the manual breather!) and connected it to the tee on the H151F.
I then ran it to the engine bay and cut off the excess tube and connected it to the breather and squashed the bracket until it was nice and tight.
End result looks pretty good!
This part I may have gone a little overboard with but what the hell...
I bought an OEM breather assembly from Partsouq with a bunch of hose clamps. This is the OEM part number for the breather that connects to the H151F in stock form.
33019-60011 H151F breather assembly
96132-41000 Breather tube clamps (cheap on Partsouq so get a bunch!)
Turns out the hose on the breather assembly is really short. I had no idea where the stock mounting location was so I decided I would mount it on the stock location of the ATF filler tube.
I hammered flat head screwdriver into the bracket to get the short hose off the breather assembly and bolted it onto the location where the ATF filler was.
Then I took the long hose that was connected to the auto breather, (which is the same inner diameter as the manual breather!) and connected it to the tee on the H151F.
I then ran it to the engine bay and cut off the excess tube and connected it to the breather and squashed the bracket until it was nice and tight.
End result looks pretty good!
- Thread starter
- #86
Neutral Safety Switch
Before you can start the truck, you have to complete the neutral safety switch circuit. This is the little grey connector in the engine bay and has two wires: Black and White.
All I did was run them up to the top of the engine bay and tape them together. This means that the truck will ALWAYS start, even in gear so be warned!!
For those of you that use cruise control, it will not work if you use this method. You will need to attach these wires to a switch on the dash so that you can disengage the neutral safety circuit so you can engage the cruise control. I plan to do this in the future as I plan to fix my cruise control one day and it will be a great anti theft device!!
And with that, the engine bay is all done!
Before you can start the truck, you have to complete the neutral safety switch circuit. This is the little grey connector in the engine bay and has two wires: Black and White.
All I did was run them up to the top of the engine bay and tape them together. This means that the truck will ALWAYS start, even in gear so be warned!!
For those of you that use cruise control, it will not work if you use this method. You will need to attach these wires to a switch on the dash so that you can disengage the neutral safety circuit so you can engage the cruise control. I plan to do this in the future as I plan to fix my cruise control one day and it will be a great anti theft device!!
And with that, the engine bay is all done!
Last edited:
Since not enough breathers showed up, I hacked off the top of my ATF filler and and AT dip stick stuck 'em both back in place and attached my trans and front diff breather to the two spouts on the ATF filler.
- Thread starter
- #88
Shifter Tunnel Modification
HUGE NOTE: For those of you with RHD, the transfer case shifter and tie rod is COMPLETELY different on the manual! So if you re use your auto transfer case, you still need to get a replacement transfer case lever and tie rod! Order this with your transmission.
I dreaded this part from the moment I start the swap. I have no fab skills and I had no idea how I would tackle it.
Luckily, I had a buddy who was super excited to help me out.
First, I kept my auto tunnel plate assembly and cut everything on it until it matched the shape of the shifter layout.
PLEASE NOTE!!! I screwed up and cut off the lower bracket because I thought i only needed that part so I could mount my centre console. DON'T CUT OFF THE LOWER CENTRE CONSOLE BRACKET MOUNT LIKE I DID!
This method (which I shall call the "Billy Method" ) has two huge benefits:
1: You can keep the lower mounting bracket for the centre console.
2: You utilize capture nut locations already on the truck.
We then used 6mm 1.0 thread pitch clips like so to bolt on the shifter boot after marking out the bolt locations on the tunnel and drilling the holes:
We only used these clips on the 3 lower bolt locations (around the transfer case shifter)!
We then used metal screws for the upper two bolt locations (around the 5 speed shifter) and cut out a piece of rubber mud flap so that the upper part of the boot had something to butt up against.
End result turned out better than I thought!
Notice that I had already cut off and painted the lower bracket... again, don't do this if you use this method.
Thanks Billy!
HUGE NOTE: For those of you with RHD, the transfer case shifter and tie rod is COMPLETELY different on the manual! So if you re use your auto transfer case, you still need to get a replacement transfer case lever and tie rod! Order this with your transmission.
I dreaded this part from the moment I start the swap. I have no fab skills and I had no idea how I would tackle it.
Luckily, I had a buddy who was super excited to help me out.
First, I kept my auto tunnel plate assembly and cut everything on it until it matched the shape of the shifter layout.
PLEASE NOTE!!! I screwed up and cut off the lower bracket because I thought i only needed that part so I could mount my centre console. DON'T CUT OFF THE LOWER CENTRE CONSOLE BRACKET MOUNT LIKE I DID!
This method (which I shall call the "Billy Method" ) has two huge benefits:
1: You can keep the lower mounting bracket for the centre console.
2: You utilize capture nut locations already on the truck.
We then used 6mm 1.0 thread pitch clips like so to bolt on the shifter boot after marking out the bolt locations on the tunnel and drilling the holes:
We only used these clips on the 3 lower bolt locations (around the transfer case shifter)!
We then used metal screws for the upper two bolt locations (around the 5 speed shifter) and cut out a piece of rubber mud flap so that the upper part of the boot had something to butt up against.
End result turned out better than I thought!
Notice that I had already cut off and painted the lower bracket... again, don't do this if you use this method.
Thanks Billy!
- Thread starter
- #89
Finishing things off
I was finally able to put everything back together.
I put the fridge back in and bolted up the centre console.
Then, when I was finally sure there was NOTHING else to do, I put on the finishing touch ($$$):
33504-20120-C0 5 Speed shifter knob (DARK GREY, NOT BLACK!)
The knob is really expensive.... $50 on Partsouq. Don't judge me.
And if anyone noticed, I changed my steering wheel during this whole thing for an OEM one.
Hope this thread helped some people. If anyone has any questions send me a PM!
If I'm missing anything, please let me know!
I also wanted to have info for you LHD 1FZ-FE guys. If people can give me some info on their experiences please chime in.
Cheers,
Nick
I was finally able to put everything back together.
I put the fridge back in and bolted up the centre console.
Then, when I was finally sure there was NOTHING else to do, I put on the finishing touch ($$$):
33504-20120-C0 5 Speed shifter knob (DARK GREY, NOT BLACK!)
The knob is really expensive.... $50 on Partsouq. Don't judge me.
And if anyone noticed, I changed my steering wheel during this whole thing for an OEM one.
Hope this thread helped some people. If anyone has any questions send me a PM!
If I'm missing anything, please let me know!
I also wanted to have info for you LHD 1FZ-FE guys. If people can give me some info on their experiences please chime in.
Cheers,
Nick
Nick, the fact that you, an oil patch engineer, think $50 is expensive (even during this down turn) is, shall we say "cute".Finishing things off
I was finally able to put everything back together.
View attachment 1093215
I put the fridge back in and bolted up the centre console.
Then, when I was finally sure there was NOTHING else to do, I put on the finishing touch ($$$):
View attachment 1093217
33504-20120-C0 5 Speed shifter knob (DARK GREY, NOT BLACK!)
The knob is really expensive.... $50 on Partsouq. Don't judge me.
View attachment 1093220
And if anyone noticed, I changed my steering wheel during this whole thing for an OEM one.
Hope this thread helped some people. If anyone has any questions send me a PM!
If I'm missing anything, please let me know!
I also wanted to have info for you LHD 1FZ-FE guys. If people can give me some info on their experiences please chime in.
Cheers,
Nick
I may yet undo all my transmission tunnel work to put in the "Billy method".
You did a fantastic job of writing up our experience to save everyone else all our cursing and swearing.
I can attest to this as well, lol. Hulk to save the day.
Awesome job on finishing your install, and taking the time to document it all, @gnarlynick2072. Thank you!!
gofast
SILVER Star
Well done gents! I burn with envy
@gnarleynick2072, don't forget the NSS fix.
FloridaFJ80
Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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Awesome work!! Thanks for your help with my install. I would have to say having a 5 speed is like having a new car.. Its a completely different animal!! I love it..
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
you beat me in the tunnel .. way better sealed than mine .. someday ( aaaahh !!! ) I will fix mine ..
sbman
Supporting Vendor
Can you attach these wires to a clutch switch? Clutch all the way down is closed switch and allows start, up is open and allows cruise control. Side effect might be cruise control disconnect when you put the clutch in which also seems like a good thing.
My '85 SR5 had a factory 'in gear start' switch on the dash to override the clutch switch. Was handy once in a while!
- Thread starter
- #98
Yessir you can do that!
Actually, the clutch pedal bracket I got from our source has the switch on there. Right now it's just sitting with tiny pig tails hanging off. This is where I plan to attach my NSS.
I THINK the pedal came from a late model 80 since the early models did not have a switch as far as I know. I grey up driving a 91 that you could start in gear.
- Thread starter
- #99
Parts List Summary
I have compiled the parts I used into a list. It includes used parts and new parts. New stuff has the part numbers next to them. This is for RHD but many parts will be the same for LHD. I'll just need to confirm this with other guys on mud that have done this swap to their LHD vehicles.
Here is a summary of parts I used for a RHD 80 series:
1 H151F transmission
1 Bell housing
2 block dowels 90250-08054
2 transfer case dowels 90250-12002
9 bell housing to trans bolts 91611-61045
1 bell housing to trans shorter bolt 91611-61035
10 bell housing to block bolts 91619-61245
1 bell housing cover plate (different from auto plate!)
1 main engine seal 90311-95008
1 input bearing (on crank) 90363-15017
1 flywheel 13405-17020
2 flywheel pins 90250-10192
8 flywheel bolts 90105-12169
1 clutch cover 31210-60162
8 clutch cover bolts 90119-10205
1 clutch disc 31250-60401
1 slave cylinder 31470-60180
2 slave cylinder bolts 91611-B0825
1 fork pivot 31236-35030
1 clutch fork 31204-36110
1 throw out bearing 31230-60181
1 fork boot 31126-60050
1 manual trans shifter lever
1 Shifter insulator boot and bracket assembly
1 Transfer case shifter assembly with shorter tie rod
1 Center console with leather boot
1 Shifter knob 33504-20120-C0
1 Front drive shaft (shorter than auto drive shaft)
1 Rear drive shaft (longer than auto drive shaft)
1 Manual trans cross member
1 Manual trans mount 12371-61050 (or get used!)
1 clutch pedal assembly
1 brake pedal for manual trans (just the pedal!)
1 clutch pedal pin (connection to master cyl) 90249-08018
1 clutch pedal bushing 90386-08033
1 clutch pedal locking pin 90468-16142
2 pedal pads 31321-14020
1 dash blank (early 80 series) (for later models (93+) 81860-12100)
1 master cylinder 31410-60372
1 master cylinder gasket 31415-60020
2 master cylinder nuts 90179-08038
RHD clutch lines:
31481-60711 Long line from master cylinder
31495-60050 2 way bracket mounted to shock mount
31496-60020 Bracket for line to slave hose
31489-60030 Line from 2 way to slave hose
96991-10080 Clip for slave hose on bracket
31484-60120 Bracket for slave hose bolted to frame
96812-50205 Hose to slave
90119-08701 (x2) Bolts for 2 way and line bracket
91611-B0816 Bolt for slave hose bracket
I have compiled the parts I used into a list. It includes used parts and new parts. New stuff has the part numbers next to them. This is for RHD but many parts will be the same for LHD. I'll just need to confirm this with other guys on mud that have done this swap to their LHD vehicles.
Here is a summary of parts I used for a RHD 80 series:
1 H151F transmission
1 Bell housing
2 block dowels 90250-08054
2 transfer case dowels 90250-12002
9 bell housing to trans bolts 91611-61045
1 bell housing to trans shorter bolt 91611-61035
10 bell housing to block bolts 91619-61245
1 bell housing cover plate (different from auto plate!)
1 main engine seal 90311-95008
1 input bearing (on crank) 90363-15017
1 flywheel 13405-17020
2 flywheel pins 90250-10192
8 flywheel bolts 90105-12169
1 clutch cover 31210-60162
8 clutch cover bolts 90119-10205
1 clutch disc 31250-60401
1 slave cylinder 31470-60180
2 slave cylinder bolts 91611-B0825
1 fork pivot 31236-35030
1 clutch fork 31204-36110
1 throw out bearing 31230-60181
1 fork boot 31126-60050
1 manual trans shifter lever
1 Shifter insulator boot and bracket assembly
1 Transfer case shifter assembly with shorter tie rod
1 Center console with leather boot
1 Shifter knob 33504-20120-C0
1 Front drive shaft (shorter than auto drive shaft)
1 Rear drive shaft (longer than auto drive shaft)
1 Manual trans cross member
1 Manual trans mount 12371-61050 (or get used!)
1 clutch pedal assembly
1 brake pedal for manual trans (just the pedal!)
1 clutch pedal pin (connection to master cyl) 90249-08018
1 clutch pedal bushing 90386-08033
1 clutch pedal locking pin 90468-16142
2 pedal pads 31321-14020
1 dash blank (early 80 series) (for later models (93+) 81860-12100)
1 master cylinder 31410-60372
1 master cylinder gasket 31415-60020
2 master cylinder nuts 90179-08038
RHD clutch lines:
31481-60711 Long line from master cylinder
31495-60050 2 way bracket mounted to shock mount
31496-60020 Bracket for line to slave hose
31489-60030 Line from 2 way to slave hose
96991-10080 Clip for slave hose on bracket
31484-60120 Bracket for slave hose bolted to frame
96812-50205 Hose to slave
90119-08701 (x2) Bolts for 2 way and line bracket
91611-B0816 Bolt for slave hose bracket
Last edited:
Nick, I'm going to start chiming in with some stuff regarding the LHD USA swaps. For others, I'm swapping both a 1HD-FT and an H151 into a 96 FJ80.
I purchased the brake pedal from Japan 4x4 to avoid the pain of having to modify the factory pedal to fit a smaller brake pad. Dave at Japan 4x4 was great and the pedal along with a few other small parts arrived roughly 2-3 weeks later. I reused the bushings, springs and pins so all you really need to swap pedals is the pedal itself and a new pad.
I purchased the brake pedal from Japan 4x4 to avoid the pain of having to modify the factory pedal to fit a smaller brake pad. Dave at Japan 4x4 was great and the pedal along with a few other small parts arrived roughly 2-3 weeks later. I reused the bushings, springs and pins so all you really need to swap pedals is the pedal itself and a new pad.
