@Bergretter
I "finished" my swap this morning! I won't ruin Nick's thread with some spoilers. But I will say my 80 is a completely different beast now. And yeah I get that smile too!
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80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
- Start date
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@Bergretter
I "finished" my swap this morning! I won't ruin Nick's thread with some spoilers. But I will say my 80 is a completely different beast now. And yeah I get that smile too!
FloridaFJ80
Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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Awesome guys
@Bergretter any links your swap thread. Thanks for the information.
@Bergretter any links your swap thread. Thanks for the information.
Frank, search H-151 swap information, the thread starts out with myself and a couple other folks (mainly Dana!) trying to gather sourcing information. It leads into the actual swap. Also completed a rebuild of the H-151 after I purchased it if anyone needs info on that. Akella was critical in helping with this project.
Joel
Joel
Awesome @danakittilsen , glad you are mobile again, and from behind 5 speeds! Congrats
- Thread starter
- #45
Pedals
We got our pedals used, which I would strongly suggest if you can source them. There are so many bits and pieces that it would probably turn into the worlds most expensive clutch pedal... relatively speaking of course.
The used pedals I got were rusty so I sanded them up and painted them.
We got a full clutch pedal assembly and brake pedal assembly.
We found out that the brake bucket on the auto is exactly the same as the brake bucket for the manual. Therefore, you only need the PEDAL for the BRAKE. MAKE SURE to get the pin attached to your clutch pedal when you order it since it does not come with your master cylinder. It's such a small thing that it really becomes a huge waste of time to go find one that will work. If you're like me and like to stay OEM (call me crazy) I ordered the pin from Partsouq when I needed to buy stuff from them anyways. Here are the pin components:
Pin: 90249-08018 ($1.51)
Bushing: 90386-08033 ($0.86)
Locking pin: 90468-16142 ($0.50)
I also ordered new pedal pads because they were so cheap:
Pedal pad: 31321-14020 x2 ($1.94 each) (same for brake and clutch pedals)
Step 1 Replace Brake Pedal
This is very straight forward, no need for pictures. Pull the pin and bolt and replace. PLEASE NOTE: DO NOT tighten your brake bolt too tight! I made this mistake and my brake wouldn't return when I went to drive my 80 after my conversion. Only tighten until it is snug. We thought we screwed up the brakes somehow after converting. Turns out it was only the pedal. Keep this in mind when you go to test drive your vehicle. Your brake will most likely feel different. This will MOST LIKELY be because of the pedal. Tweak as necessary.
Step 2 Install Clutch Pedal
Depending on your year, LHD or RHD you may have a different experience with this.
Since you have already drilled the holes for the master cylinder, 2 out of 3 mounting points have been accomplished. Use your master cylinder nuts mentioned in the master cylinder section of this thread to mount the pedal to the firewall. Attach the locking pin on the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. NOTE: I had to adjust my mounting bracket on the master cylinder shaft all the way to the end to make my pedal work for me. Keep this in mind. Just spin the u shaped chrome mounting piece to the end and lock it up with the nut on the shaft.
Once you have mounted the cylinder to the pedal and the pedal to the firewall there's a 3rd bolt that gets mounted at the top of the bucket. Some 80s have this capture nut already in the truck! For those that do - screw you. For those that don't, I feel your pain. This is how we solved it.
Position your pedal till you're happy with its orientation and mark the hole. Then drill away. This hole actually goes into the rain gutter as shown -
In order to access this hole - remove the 6 screws that hold the cowl cover on. Remove the windshield wipers by pulling the tabs on the base ends and remove the bolts. This will give you access to the cowl.
I then put JB weld on a nut in the rain gutter to make sure I get a good mount and seal so that no water gets in, took a spare bolt and washer and bolted it in from the inside. I would suggest MAKING SURE you get a good water tight seal! This may include Teflon tape on your bolt.
When it's all done, you should have this:
For those of you LHD guys! You can buy the brake pedal new and you'd only need to source a used clutch pedal assembly. For the LHD, you will need:
Brake pedal for LHD MTM: 47101-60210
EDIT:
There is a white module box on the left of the clutch pedal which does not fit with the pedal in there. I would suggest bending the bracket so the white module CAN fit with the clutch pedal BEFORE you put in the upper bolt.
If you didn't do this (like I did), here is a good mounting solution I found.
I found an unused capture nut in the brake bucket. And who knew, the bolts that held the bracket in the auto configuration work!
So, I pulled the bracket off the module and bent it around. I also cut a part of it off so that there was enough room to put a wrench around the brake pedal through bolt.
This allowed me to put the module between the clutch pedal and bracket pedal buckets! Beats the hell out of my old solution - wedging it in there and hoping it doesn't pop out... lol!
***SEE POST #185 TO SEE HOW I BENT THE BRACKET TO MAKE THE MODULE FIT***
We got our pedals used, which I would strongly suggest if you can source them. There are so many bits and pieces that it would probably turn into the worlds most expensive clutch pedal... relatively speaking of course.
The used pedals I got were rusty so I sanded them up and painted them.
We got a full clutch pedal assembly and brake pedal assembly.We found out that the brake bucket on the auto is exactly the same as the brake bucket for the manual. Therefore, you only need the PEDAL for the BRAKE. MAKE SURE to get the pin attached to your clutch pedal when you order it since it does not come with your master cylinder. It's such a small thing that it really becomes a huge waste of time to go find one that will work. If you're like me and like to stay OEM (call me crazy) I ordered the pin from Partsouq when I needed to buy stuff from them anyways. Here are the pin components:
Pin: 90249-08018 ($1.51)
Bushing: 90386-08033 ($0.86)
Locking pin: 90468-16142 ($0.50)
I also ordered new pedal pads because they were so cheap:
Pedal pad: 31321-14020 x2 ($1.94 each) (same for brake and clutch pedals)
Step 1 Replace Brake Pedal
This is very straight forward, no need for pictures. Pull the pin and bolt and replace. PLEASE NOTE: DO NOT tighten your brake bolt too tight! I made this mistake and my brake wouldn't return when I went to drive my 80 after my conversion. Only tighten until it is snug. We thought we screwed up the brakes somehow after converting. Turns out it was only the pedal. Keep this in mind when you go to test drive your vehicle. Your brake will most likely feel different. This will MOST LIKELY be because of the pedal. Tweak as necessary.
Step 2 Install Clutch Pedal
Depending on your year, LHD or RHD you may have a different experience with this.
Since you have already drilled the holes for the master cylinder, 2 out of 3 mounting points have been accomplished. Use your master cylinder nuts mentioned in the master cylinder section of this thread to mount the pedal to the firewall. Attach the locking pin on the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. NOTE: I had to adjust my mounting bracket on the master cylinder shaft all the way to the end to make my pedal work for me. Keep this in mind. Just spin the u shaped chrome mounting piece to the end and lock it up with the nut on the shaft.
Once you have mounted the cylinder to the pedal and the pedal to the firewall there's a 3rd bolt that gets mounted at the top of the bucket. Some 80s have this capture nut already in the truck! For those that do - screw you. For those that don't, I feel your pain. This is how we solved it.
Position your pedal till you're happy with its orientation and mark the hole. Then drill away. This hole actually goes into the rain gutter as shown -
In order to access this hole - remove the 6 screws that hold the cowl cover on. Remove the windshield wipers by pulling the tabs on the base ends and remove the bolts. This will give you access to the cowl.
I then put JB weld on a nut in the rain gutter to make sure I get a good mount and seal so that no water gets in, took a spare bolt and washer and bolted it in from the inside. I would suggest MAKING SURE you get a good water tight seal! This may include Teflon tape on your bolt.
When it's all done, you should have this:
For those of you LHD guys! You can buy the brake pedal new and you'd only need to source a used clutch pedal assembly. For the LHD, you will need:
Brake pedal for LHD MTM: 47101-60210
EDIT:
There is a white module box on the left of the clutch pedal which does not fit with the pedal in there. I would suggest bending the bracket so the white module CAN fit with the clutch pedal BEFORE you put in the upper bolt.
If you didn't do this (like I did), here is a good mounting solution I found.
I found an unused capture nut in the brake bucket. And who knew, the bolts that held the bracket in the auto configuration work!
So, I pulled the bracket off the module and bent it around. I also cut a part of it off so that there was enough room to put a wrench around the brake pedal through bolt.
This allowed me to put the module between the clutch pedal and bracket pedal buckets! Beats the hell out of my old solution - wedging it in there and hoping it doesn't pop out... lol!
***SEE POST #185 TO SEE HOW I BENT THE BRACKET TO MAKE THE MODULE FIT***
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Once you have your two pedal buckets in place, you can reconnect your HVAC relay. The beige plastic box removed because your clutch spring swing arm will bash it.
I found that it fits perfectly horizontally between the two buckets. Just make sure the metal bracket on the relay doesn't interfere with your brake pedal.
Golden.
I found that it fits perfectly horizontally between the two buckets. Just make sure the metal bracket on the relay doesn't interfere with your brake pedal.
Golden.
Nick, excellent job with this thread man and thanks again for all the help you've provided me with my upcoming swap.
For the US market guys, I have a 96' FJ80 which is getting a 24 valve 1HD-FT and 5 speed manual swap this summer. It's LHD and I'll try to chip in on this thread with anything I learn along the way that may be different from the RHD stuff.
Keep up the great work!
For the US market guys, I have a 96' FJ80 which is getting a 24 valve 1HD-FT and 5 speed manual swap this summer. It's LHD and I'll try to chip in on this thread with anything I learn along the way that may be different from the RHD stuff.
Keep up the great work!
I wish we'd taken pictures of the clutch contortion yoga pose we s spent so much time in, working up under the dash on the pedals...
- Thread starter
- #49
Clutch
After you pull your auto flywheel off you should have a bear crank end like this:
I decided to replace the main seal as a "while you're in there" thing. Be extra careful not to score any of the material where the seal mates up!! If you did make a few marks (like I did) take a fine grit sandpaper and smooth out any rough/sharp edges. This is very important as you can tear up the new seal when installing.
Main seal: 90311-95008
Once that is in, clean up the area where you insert the input bearing and put it into place. Try not to mushroom the edges when installing otherwise it's horribly difficult to replace.
Input bearing: 90363-15017
When you order your transmission, you will need to also get the endplate! This is different from the auto endplate as there is no access to the torque converter bolts as there is on the auto. There is a single 12mm bolt that holds it on torqued to 13 ft-lbs.
Then the fun begins. Take your new flywheel, and BEFORE you put it on the crank, hammer in the pins! You will need these to line up your clutch cover plate. They won't go in easy and you don't want to flatten them. Therefore try to hammer them in in a couple swoops with a big hammer. Then put it up into place. Then bolt up the flywheel. I decided to put blue locktite on my flywheel bolts though the FSM never mentions it. Peace of mind is all. These bolts need to be torqued to 94 ft-lbs. Here is an excerpt from the FSM on the correct order of torquing the bolts. Make sure you alternate and triple check that they are tight!
Pins: 90250-10192 x2
Flywheel: 13405-17020
Flywheel bolts: 90105-12169 x8
Once it's all in here's what it looks like:
Note that I didn't hammer in the pins when we took this picture... very embarrassing. We did it after on the engine. My mechanic said it was fine but I wasn't a fan of hammering while it was on the crank shaft.
Clean it up with some brake cleaner and move on to the clutch!
We bought a handy clutch alignment tool from partsouq which is actually an SST! It worked great! Well worth the money.
Clutch alignment SST: 09301-00120
Install clutch disc with tool
Clutch disc: 31250-60401
Then put the clutch cover on top of the clutch disc and line up the pins. Then bolt into place. The torque of the clutch cover bolts is 29 ft-lbs . Make sure to do the star pattern and triple check the torques of all of them! As you tighten some bolts, it'll loosen up others as the clutch cover is basically a big spring. Here's what it looks like:
Clutch cover: 31210-60162
Clutch cover bolts: 90119-10205 x8
Then remove the SST and you're done installing the clutch.
After you pull your auto flywheel off you should have a bear crank end like this:
I decided to replace the main seal as a "while you're in there" thing. Be extra careful not to score any of the material where the seal mates up!! If you did make a few marks (like I did) take a fine grit sandpaper and smooth out any rough/sharp edges. This is very important as you can tear up the new seal when installing.
Main seal: 90311-95008
Once that is in, clean up the area where you insert the input bearing and put it into place. Try not to mushroom the edges when installing otherwise it's horribly difficult to replace.
Input bearing: 90363-15017
When you order your transmission, you will need to also get the endplate! This is different from the auto endplate as there is no access to the torque converter bolts as there is on the auto. There is a single 12mm bolt that holds it on torqued to 13 ft-lbs.
Then the fun begins. Take your new flywheel, and BEFORE you put it on the crank, hammer in the pins! You will need these to line up your clutch cover plate. They won't go in easy and you don't want to flatten them. Therefore try to hammer them in in a couple swoops with a big hammer. Then put it up into place. Then bolt up the flywheel. I decided to put blue locktite on my flywheel bolts though the FSM never mentions it. Peace of mind is all. These bolts need to be torqued to 94 ft-lbs. Here is an excerpt from the FSM on the correct order of torquing the bolts. Make sure you alternate and triple check that they are tight!
Pins: 90250-10192 x2
Flywheel: 13405-17020
Flywheel bolts: 90105-12169 x8
Once it's all in here's what it looks like:
Note that I didn't hammer in the pins when we took this picture... very embarrassing. We did it after on the engine. My mechanic said it was fine but I wasn't a fan of hammering while it was on the crank shaft.
Clean it up with some brake cleaner and move on to the clutch!
We bought a handy clutch alignment tool from partsouq which is actually an SST! It worked great! Well worth the money.
Clutch alignment SST: 09301-00120
Install clutch disc with tool
Clutch disc: 31250-60401
Then put the clutch cover on top of the clutch disc and line up the pins. Then bolt into place. The torque of the clutch cover bolts is 29 ft-lbs . Make sure to do the star pattern and triple check the torques of all of them! As you tighten some bolts, it'll loosen up others as the clutch cover is basically a big spring. Here's what it looks like:
Clutch cover: 31210-60162
Clutch cover bolts: 90119-10205 x8
Then remove the SST and you're done installing the clutch.
boozewz
SILVER Star
Looking good mate. That new flywheel sure is purrrdy
Nice work guys, I remember the under dash work being quite a bear! With my US LHD conversion I found leaving the stock brake pedal assembly in place worked just fine with the new clutch assembly in place. I ordered the two new pads as mentioned above, then simply trimmed the original metal pedal down to fit the new pad. You guys work out the reverse light issue? The only other electrical issue I had was ABS light illuminated constantly. I ended up relocating the accelerometer that is mounted on the auto shifter plate (has directional arrow on the side) elsewhere in my center console (connector on floor near front of console) and light went away. I guess you could also loop the wiring for the sensor as well.
Joel, our early models didn't come with ABS.
I'm just about to go outside and fiddle with what's left of my auto harness and the new manual harness to get my reverse lights to work. I'll report back momentarily.
Also to report: yesterday I drove roughly 700km and only had to down shift to 4th once for the biggest hill on the drive up to Grande Prairie, AB from Calgary. My EGT only reached about 500°c. With the auto they used to be 600°c in third gear doing 3000rpm doing that same hill.
I'm just about to go outside and fiddle with what's left of my auto harness and the new manual harness to get my reverse lights to work. I'll report back momentarily.
Also to report: yesterday I drove roughly 700km and only had to down shift to 4th once for the biggest hill on the drive up to Grande Prairie, AB from Calgary. My EGT only reached about 500°c. With the auto they used to be 600°c in third gear doing 3000rpm doing that same hill.
FloridaFJ80
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Anymore updates???
Haha I've been bugging Nick to finish up too, @FloridaFJ80.
He's waiting to get his transfer case shift lever installed.
(We neglected to notice that a different lever was needed and had to order them from our UK source).
He's waiting to get his transfer case shift lever installed.
(We neglected to notice that a different lever was needed and had to order them from our UK source).
I've got a spare H151F and full time transfer case on the shelf with a 1FZ-FE bellhousing if anyone's interested out of a 1997. PM if interested, but yeah, freight's probably going to kill it from Australia. I've had my 6.0LS2 in front of a H151F for a while no and it's handling it fine.
- Thread starter
- #56
@TeeDiggs is looking for a 1fz-fe bell housing for his h151f if you're willing to sell just the bell.
Like Dana said I've been waiting to install my t case lever. Then I can provide exact lever measurements for the tunnel cutting. Then I'll cover the install and what we did for the cross member. I'm really interested in The input for our cross member method.
No, sorry, not parting it out. Try ebay Australia as they are a dime a dozen here
FloridaFJ80
Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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- Thread starter
- #59
Maybe on another thread? Kind of want to keep this on point so guys don't have to read pages and pages of crap in order to do their swaps.
FloridaFJ80
Roaming Land Cruiser Heaven
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Yeah no worries maybe if he has a link or something. Thread hijack over. Now come lets get some updates lol
