80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Threads
144
Messages
1,111
Location
Calgary, AB
I figured it's time for me to contribute to the forum.

I wanted to create a thread of my experiences with this swap in order to inform other guys that might be interested in this. The goal of this thread is to give MAXIMUM information and part #s to the other 2 1/2 :banana: mechanics (hobbyists) like myself on this forum. There are a few threads on this swap however there are a LOT of assumptions in all of them and they don't get into the nitty gritty details that I would like to know. I'm also a purist so I'm doing this as close to OEM as possible.

So here we go.


Why do the swap?

There are many reasons to do the swap, and not to. So here are some pros and cons.

Pros:

-H151F is more efficient and lighter. After driving it for a while, I have noticed that there is now much more response at the wheels. I would say 15% would be a maximum value for power gain, but feels like 10%. MPGs are definitely better around town, though I haven't seen a huge highway difference, if any. Of course, I'm now running 33s and an RTT which will devour fuel.

-H151F is more reliable. These boxes are bulletproof and will have less chances of leaving you stranded. You also have less maintenance since your fluid changes have longer intervals and much less fluid as well. (90-92 models have 1st/2nd synchro issues, so beware!)

-H151F is more awesome. Every 80 I have driven with a 5 speed has given me the biggest smile. The driving experience is greatly improved.

-Added value to vehicle. Here in Canada, 5 speed 80 series often go for far higher prices and get sold far quicker than autos. This is one of the few mods you can do which could very well break even with net cost of the swap and the increased value of the vehicle.

-You get to learn a lot about your truck. For us 2 1/2 :banana: guys, this is a big deal.

Cons:

-COST COST COST COST COST. This swap is very expensive. This is probably the biggest con and turns most people away from it. This is coupled with the fact that most components come from overseas and these parts are HEAVY so shipping kills the bank account. Don't be surprised if you sink $4k to $5k on this. However, you'll net less after selling auto components. BUT I justified this because an auto rebuild could run almost the same amount... +/- a few $k of course. :flipoff2:

-Finding parts. This has been an adventure over the past 6 months. It has been very challenging finding all the right components. I was lucky enough to get a good source from a fellow mudder so that made things much easier. However new components sourcing and searching has become an art form. EDIT: If you have the option of getting a rebuilt H151F, DO IT. It's easily worth the money.

-EDIT: Wheeling is no longer a con. After wheeling the manual, I've determined it's been a superior experience for me. Others may have different experiences.



Where the hell did you find your parts?

-Send me a PM and I'll give you my source to the USED components.

-For new components, there are many ways to go.

FIRST contact beno or cdan and see if they have stuff locally. For you USA guys, that'll save lots of money in shipping. I went with the sources below as shipping internationally either way would have cost about the same. Canada is a pain that way.

SECOND, if they don't have everything, I used: partsouq.com and Japan4x4 (Dave is awesome). amayama.com is also another way to go.


Obligatory Before picture:

IMG_2420.JPG


Obligatory After Picture:

IMG_2726.JPG
 
Last edited:
Good luck man! I love my 5speed. Even with the syncros being a bit worn/tired it still beats driving an auto. I'm curious to see if you'll have the problem getting it into first that most guys with the well used h151's have. I have problems getting first even at a dead stop sometimes I have to grab second then I can get first.
 
First step: Dash blank.

Many people won't want go through this, but for us purists... it's a big deal.

Before doing the mechanical parts, I wanted to sort out the little things. I found out that you can change the P R N D auto indicator on the combination meter to a plastic piece that snaps into place. This sounded awesome to me.

I pulled the dash apart, took out the indicator and... uh-oh! Different shape part. Turns out there are TWO different kinds of dash blanks depending on what year 80 you have. The two different versions are shown below.

IMG_2488.JPG


The one on the LEFT is 81860-22050 which is DISCONTINUED! I had to source it used from my part source in the UK. This is for model years 90-92.

The one on the RIGHT is 81860-12100 which you can still get. However get ready for sticker shock! This piece of plastic is EXPENSIVE. I accidentally bought this one and turned out it wasn't right for my year. This is for model years 93-97.

Please correct me if I'm wrong with those years!

Another HUGE plus for doing this for us JDM guys is that replacing the auto indicator gets rid of the reverse beeper!!


IMG_2491.JPG



Here is the finished result:

IMG_2490.JPG
 
subscribed
 
dito :popcorn::clap:
 
Sounds like a great thread idea. It's something I've considered (more on that in a moment) but budget, time, and lack of info have so far stymied me.

SNIP
Cons:

SNIP
-Wheeling. If you are an avid off-road person, this swap will make you less capable. I think it is fairly unanimous that autos are much better to wheel with vs manuals. (My buddy is giving me s**t for this very reason :) )
Hmmm, I dunno about that being a con with a manual transmission. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned with an auto. I'll make a sad admission here. I've barely wheeled the 80 since it was bought six years ago. Working on a doctorate will do that to your budget and time for that, let alone any mechanical improvements. But in my mind, this will actually improve off-road capability for me. I've heard people say this about autos, but back in the day when there was a choice between manual and auto in virtually every 4x4, the truly hardcore all defaulted to manual. The exception was the LandCruiser, strictly manual in the US until the 60 series made it mandatory:(

Maybe we were just stuck in their ways, maybe the lesser reliability of autos was a dark cloud hanging over that choice, maybe we just weren't paying attention. I dunno. With proper technique and a little practice, a manual is every bit as capable as an auto.
 
Looking forward to watching this happen. I love manuals.
 
Master Cylinder

This part I really wanted to get right. I have seen guys put these in on off angles which results in a sideways clutch pedal.

The parts I used were:

Master cylinder: 31410-60372
Master cylinder gasket: 31415-60020
Master cylinder nuts (x2): 90179-08038

Luckily, my friend has an auto 1990 HDJ81 and it turns out these models already have the holes pre tapped! There are bolts filling the holes when a master cylinder isn't needed. This is what it will look like on a 1990 (my buddy has his electrical stuff in the way but you get the idea....)

IMG_2536.JPG


He put chalk on the surface to measure the distance between the centre of each bolt to the edge of the flat surface. Here are the measurements he got:

IMG_2493.JPG


I measured both and put a vertical line for each side. I then took the gasket, centred it on the large middle hole, then rotated it until both lines moved to the middle of each bolt hole. Then I drilled the top right hole. Make sure to only drill the top right one as you can put in the master cylinder in and get it where you want it. There's some play in the large hole so you can adjust if you didn't get the measurements right.

IMG_2499.JPG


Once you're happy with the orientation of the cylinder, mark the second hole (bottom left hole) and drill away.
 
Last edited:
Finishing Dash

After the blank was installed and with the dash apart I took the opportunity to replace a few things.

I bought a bunch of bulbs to replace the burnt out ones. There are two kinds of bulbs for the buttons on the dash:

84999-10420 Small bulbs
84999-10320 Big bulbs

IMG_2436.JPG


For those of you with an early model dash, you probably had experience with a broken double vent on the dash. Very annoying. Luckily you can get them new which is what I did.


55670-60010

IMG_2430.JPG


Cleaned everything up, glue back together some broken tabs and installed a new radio and here's what it looks like. Love it without the auto indicator.

IMG_2497.JPG
 
Last edited:
Clutch Lines

Many guys I have talked to suggested doing custom lines. I did some digging and thanks to Dave at Japan4x4 we were able to figure out how to make it work with OEM lines and it was SUPER easy!! Also, the price was right. Not even $100 for all the lines and brackets when it was said and done all with Toyota parts.

The parts I used for the clutch lines will work for ALL RHD 80 series models. For you LHD guys, I'll have to confirm with my buddy Travis that the lines I got him worked out right. I'll report once he confirms. :)

Here's a diagram with all the parts I used for the lines:

31481-60711 Long line from master cylinder
31495-60050 2 way bracket mounted to shock mount
31496-60020 Bracket for line to slave hose
31489-60030 Line from 2 way to slave hose
96991-10080 Clip for slave hose on bracket
31484-60120 Bracket for slave hose bolted to frame
96812-50205 Hose to slave
90119-08701 (x2) Bolts for 2 way and line bracket
91611-B0816 Bolt for slave hose bracket

IMG_2492.JPG


Here's what it looks like installed:

IMG_2409.JPG


IMG_2535.JPG


IMG_2527.JPG
 
Sounds like a great thread idea. It's something I've considered (more on that in a moment) but budget, time, and lack of info have so far stymied me.


Hmmm, I dunno about that being a con with a manual transmission. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned with an auto. I'll make a sad admission here. I've barely wheeled the 80 since it was bought six years ago. Working on a doctorate will do that to your budget and time for that, let alone any mechanical improvements. But in my mind, this will actually improve off-road capability for me. I've heard people say this about autos, but back in the day when there was a choice between manual and auto in virtually every 4x4, the truly hardcore all defaulted to manual. The exception was the LandCruiser, strictly manual in the US until the 60 series made it mandatory:(

Maybe we were just stuck in their ways, maybe the lesser reliability of autos was a dark cloud hanging over that choice, maybe we just weren't paying attention. I dunno. With proper technique and a little practice, a manual is every bit as capable as an auto.


Good point. I think it really depends on the terrain with respect to auto vs manual. On technical steep inclines, auto makes the world of difference. I prefer my 5 speed 4runner over the 80 in mud and other more level ground stuff. Most of the time it's 6/half dozen one or the other. However when I'm on big hills I'm glad I'm driving an auto in the 80. Though that's about 0.1% total of my driving.
 
Did you have a part time case when you did the swap?? Also I would presume that the H151F lines are the same no matter if there is a 1HDT or 1FZJ... Is that correct?
 
Great work. I alway like when people post the part numbers.
 
Did you have a part time case when you did the swap?? Also I would presume that the H151F lines are the same no matter if there is a 1HDT or 1FZJ... Is that correct?

Haven't done the swap yet, everything I'm posting is current so I don't forget anything. I'm swapping next week. I have a full time case.

And yes the lines are the same regardless of engine type as the mounting points are on the frame and shock mount. Also the master cylinder is the same as well.
 
If you wanted to, could you swap just the 5speed and still use the full time case? Are the driveshafts the same? does the stock crossmember stay in place or does it need to moved or replaced??

Great job so far!! Please when you get the list from your friend for the LHD please post the PN of the lines!!
 
If you wanted to, could you swap just the 5speed and still use the full time case? Are the driveshafts the same? does the stock crossmember stay in place or does it need to moved or replaced??

Great job so far!! Please when you get the list from your friend for the LHD please post the PN of the lines!!

Don't worry I'll cover all that in the coming weeks. This thread is going to be very in depth and will cover both lhd and rhd and 1hd and 1fz. My friend (which I bought the transmissions with in a group buy) will be doing a 1fz 5 speed swap so he can fill us in with some info relating to the US market side once he does his swap :)

I have all the hard lines for the LHD version and literally the only difference is the line from the master cylinder to the 2 way on the shock mount. So on my list it changes only one item.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom