80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80

[FloridaFJ80]

Awesome!!! Thanks alot Subscribed!!! I plan on doing the same to my 80.. This would be a tremendous help to all of us..

Subscribed

 

[OFR04D]

H150F gearboxes are more common here, and are basically the same except for the input shaft and 1st/2nd ratios. They use a fine spline, but the turbo boxes use a course spline. Turbo boxes also use a larger clutch. You could always get a custom clutch to suit.

Early 151 syncros are superseded, so a rebuilt box will have the improved parts.

I'm hoping to swap the 151 for a 150 so I have better takeoff with 35's but still get lower cruise rpm.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

H150F gearboxes are more common here, and are basically the same except for the input shaft and 1st/2nd ratios. They use a fine spline, but the turbo boxes use a course spline. Turbo boxes also use a larger clutch. You could always get a custom clutch to suit.

Early 151 syncros are superseded, so a rebuilt box will have the improved parts.

I'm hoping to swap the 151 for a 150 so I have better takeoff with 35's but still get lower cruise rpm.

The boxes we got in the group buy are actually rebuilt so we won't have to worry about the early syncro issues.

I have driven both 151 and 150 and I found the short 1st gear on the 150 is far too short for my liking. I basically started in 2nd from a stand still most of the time since it was so close to 1st. Though with 35s and increased off road precision, I could see it being an advantage for a wheeling truck.

 

[greentruck]

Good point. I think it really depends on the terrain with respect to auto vs manual. On technical steep inclines, auto makes the world of difference. I prefer my 5 speed 4runner over the 80 in mud and other more level ground stuff. Most of the time it's 6/half dozen one or the other. However when I'm on big hills I'm glad I'm driving an auto in the 80. Though that's about 0.1% total of my driving.

I think maybe the best word to characterize the difference is autos are _easier_ to drive off road. Not that there's any stupendous skill set involved, but once you know the basics of driving a manual -- i.e. stay off the clutch, except when intending to shift, and stay in gear -- then it's pretty much level . I learned to drive off road on the farm, but got polished at it by reading a column by a fellow who wrote for Pickup, Van & 4WD magazine back in the 70s. I think he went by the moniker "Desert Rat" but that's so pre-Internet and so generic I've had no luck coming up with any info. He did write a book that was basically an extract of his columns in PV4. Now I wish I hadn't disposed of my nearly complete collection of it, because I've had no luck figuring out a title. If anyone recalls who I'm talking about, would appreciate knowing. Sorry for the hijack, but if anyone has doubts about the effectiveness of the manual transmission, reading that might lead them to reconsider. The guy was good at explaining such basic stuff.

And thank you again for this thread. I can only dream of this at the moment, but it's the only place where I've considered the 80 as falling short of meeting my needs.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Good luck man! I love my 5speed. Even with the syncros being a bit worn/tired it still beats driving an auto. I'm curious to see if you'll have the problem getting it into first that most guys with the well used h151's have. I have problems getting first even at a dead stop sometimes I have to grab second then I can get first.

Good to know! We actually bit the bullet and bought rebuilt boxes so we shall see what happens!

 

[DKBrulles]

Keep up the good Lords work!! This may push me over the edge to converting to manual. The 80 is the first auto I've ever owned and I dream of the day I return to manual

 

[danakittilsen]

H150F gearboxes are more common here, and are basically the same except for the input shaft and 1st/2nd ratios. They use a fine spline, but the turbo boxes use a course spline. Turbo boxes also use a larger clutch. You could always get a custom clutch to suit.

Early 151 syncros are superseded, so a rebuilt box will have the improved parts.

I'm hoping to swap the 151 for a 150 so I have better takeoff with 35's but still get lower cruise rpm.

This is what @Tapage did in panama.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I'm curious to see the flywheel solution, with hardware and PNs...nice tech-especially for the 80 series crowd!

 

[gnarlynick2072]

I'm curious to see the flywheel solution, with hardware and PNs...nice tech-especially for the 80 series crowd!

Flywheel solution? I'm curious what you mean? I bought a new OEM Toyota flywheel if that's what you mean..

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Just to give an update to everyone I won't be able to start the swap until next week. Hopefully I'll be able to get pedals in on the weekend and add to the write-up then. Thanks for all the great feedback!

 

[danakittilsen]

Just to give an update to everyone I won't be able to start the swap until next week. Hopefully I'll be able to get pedals in on the weekend and add to the write-up then. Thanks for all the great feedback!

I want a button to dislike this post. Enough waiting already!
@teedigs ate you coming up to Calgary to pick up your gear box, this weekend? Or whenever it gets here?

 

[danakittilsen]

I'm curious to see the flywheel solution, with hardware and PNs...nice tech-especially for the 80 series crowd!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/marilu-upgrades-ver-2009.284595/
This is where you find the flywheel and clutch plate configuration to mate the h150 box to a 1HDt

 

[danakittilsen]

They are finally here.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Just a teaser for your Friday. In depth information to come!

My grandfather working away. He's a mechanic.

Found this under the auto shifter console. Pretty cool finding little things from the previous owners back in Japan!

 

[UniquE]

Looking forward to the in depth guide. Also wanting to do this swap, cant I just park my HDJ next to yours

 

[gnarlynick2072]

Removal of Automatic

This. Part. Sucks. For those of you who have read other threads about this and when people say it's a PITA, they aren't kidding.

Follow the FSM to do this. Sorry I'm just like everyone else, but it's literally the best way to do this.

However, there were some things that weren't covered in the FSM. Here are some things we noticed when removing the auto:


-LOOSEN FAN SHROUD. Can't stress this enough. The engine will tilt like crazy when you lower the auto.
-Remove leads on batteries.
-Disconnect the wires right next to the starter. There are a bunch there and they suck to take apart. Do this before removing the starter.
-One of the electrical connectors by the auto shifter was very difficult to take apart. I found the best way to take them apart was to squish the end of the outer harness connection so it "bulges" out with pliers which allows the little protrusion on the little connector to be released, likewise with another set of pliers.
-Disconnect sway bar. Do this early. It will help you get at the lower starter bolt.
-Starter has one bolt and one nut. The nut is inside the engine bay. It sucks, lots of large harness electrical connections in the way. Note that you should remove the starter electrical connections before removing the bolt and nut!! There are two thick wire connections and a wire harness. If you take off a boot and see a Phillips screw in there, back up. Look for the connector you shouldn't remove the screw.
-Get rid of all your ATF cooling lines. They get in the way of everything, and if you're confident enough just cut them. Hacksaw is slick like s*** through a goose.
-Upper bell housing bolts will need 1ft - 2ft extensions for your ratchet. You can access these from the shifter holes in the interior. I had no problem removing these while sitting inside the truck.


-IMPORTANT: there are a number of 12mm bolts holding the ATF hard lines on the bell housing. These will hold you up. There are a couple that you can access from inside the truck, the last one you can access from the engine bay right near the starter. Wiggle your lines to make sure they aren't connected to the bell housing. Here's a pic of the line brackets that held me up.

-Disconnect breathers from the ATF filler.
-Leave the transfer case on. You'll fight to the end of time trying to remove it. Just leave it.

And the most important part:

RENT/BUY A TRANSMISSION JACK!

End product of removing the auto looks like this:

 

[gofast]

Good progress! You have pics of the spots in question where you had the to access the bolts --that would be cool to see as reference

Last time I did something like this, I used some two by fours and a bottle jack to rest the engine on where it drops at the back. I placed the jack at the back of the oilpan. Thought it would put less stress on the mounts while I did other things

 

[danakittilsen]

I think it bears mentioning that it took me a good 8-9 hours to get my A442f out. Keep in mind I am working on a hoist with a transmission jack, and I've never removed a transmission before.

 

[Dave 2000]

This is a great thread! I am a true advocate of manual over an auto so IMO you are going the right way, don't start me off on the auto versus manual as the manual wins hands down

Mine is already a UK manual in stock form from the factory although now living with me in Spain. I recently replaced my gear/transfer boxes (broke) and you are right, keep them together for removal and refit. Another note, the stud that remains for the starter should be removed before trying to refit the manual gearbox, once the box is more or less in place you need to rotate it a little and that stud is a f*cking PITA!!

I note a couple of things which you may or may not be aware of? The clutch pedal pressure is quite high, and when wheeling can be a little hard on your leg muscles, the UK versions have a servo (similar to the brake) which assists in pressing the clutch pedal down, makes for a feather weight clutch. I note you already purchased the flywheel, the later 24 valve engine uses a bigger flywheel clutch face with a bigger clutch assembly that bolts straight in, again helps to have the bigger clutch when wheeling, having said that I do not recall seeing any criticism levelled at the earlier version.

You will be chuffed to bits with this when it is done and dusted.

Next will be the 12v starter conversion, check out this mod in my LC 80 thread shown in my sig.

Keep with the updates,

regards

Dave

 

[Bergretter]

Looking good Nick! Sent you some info on the drive shaft issue.

Dana, I'm so excited to see you finally getting to dive into your conversion, awesome!

Florida FZJ80, I used my stock full time case with the H151 when completing this conversion in a 1993 LHD equipped with an 1FZ-FE engine, no issues. Had to have a shop shorten my front shaft and lengthen my rear, they gave me clear directions on how to correctly measure for this. Crossmember had to be moved back, holes in frame for this already, but had to cut off supports and reweld to frame in line with the rear holes. I think I have some pictures of this in my swap thread.

Keep up the good work guys, It's been a year for me, and I still smile every time I drive her now!