I'll have to try again. I'm in AZ and my dealer said none in the country. They tried pushing the order a few times but big Toyota kept cancelling it.
80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
- Start date
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As of last week there’s 4-5 in Ontario, CA so maybe mention that.
Another option would be Dave at Japan4x4 or Impex. Impex are selling them for $1700.
I would like roo see the notes on these! As i am about to do my auto to manual
I just wanted to add to this thread in case a future someone tackles this swap, hopefully this helps.
Below is a picture of everything I needed to remove BEFORE I was ready to pull the transmission:
That would include:
- Battery and battery tray
- driveshafts
- Throttle and kick down cable (probably didn't need to remove the throttle cable)
- loosen fan shroud (I didn't end up removing it to take out the auto)
- clutch fan
- Starter motor - I removed mine completely
- Trans dipstick
- Oil cooler and disconnect the lines from it. You don't need to remove it though, you just need to disconnect the soft lines
- 2 front mudguards for easier access to things
- front grille
- A couple of sheet metal covers underneath the vehicle (one for the trans/xfer case, one around where the trans and engine meet)
- Front exhaust pipes (make sure to buy new gaskets and bolts/nuts for these)
- Shifter linkages for the auto and transfer shifters. I think I remove the majority of the bolts from underneath the rig
- All the center console stuff (armrest, trim around the shifters)
- entire shifter assembly, it all comes off in one piece
- crossmember once you're ready to support with a jack and tilt the drivetrain down
- disconnect all the clamps holding the 2 oil cooler (hard) lines to the engine and trans - you also must remove the oil cooler unions that are on the left side of the transmission housing half way up. They can be tough to remove. Very important that you disconnect the lines going into the top of both unions first, then unscrew the unions from the trans itself. I was trying to pull them straight out for ages, not realizing they are threaded in
- You can get to every oil cooler tube clamp without tilting the drivetrain except for 1 at the top. That one I had to tilt the drivetrain down before I could get a socket on it. I was able to keep the whole tube assembly intact this way.
I think that was everything I had to remove.
Some stuff is going to fight you, some bolts are hard to remove, but enough patience and the right tools you should be just fine.
Must have tools besides the obvious would be flexhead ratcheting wrenches, long box end wrenches (helpful in certain scenarios), nano/short sockets which I actually used a lot (Astro sells some nice sets), and those goofy looking s-shaped wrenches (only needed it once or twice but it saved me a lot of time).
Having a compact/stubby impact driver helped too and could fit in spaces that standard sized impacts otherwise wouldn't.
Below is a picture of everything I needed to remove BEFORE I was ready to pull the transmission:
That would include:
- Battery and battery tray
- driveshafts
- Throttle and kick down cable (probably didn't need to remove the throttle cable)
- loosen fan shroud (I didn't end up removing it to take out the auto)
- clutch fan
- Starter motor - I removed mine completely
- Trans dipstick
- Oil cooler and disconnect the lines from it. You don't need to remove it though, you just need to disconnect the soft lines
- 2 front mudguards for easier access to things
- front grille
- A couple of sheet metal covers underneath the vehicle (one for the trans/xfer case, one around where the trans and engine meet)
- Front exhaust pipes (make sure to buy new gaskets and bolts/nuts for these)
- Shifter linkages for the auto and transfer shifters. I think I remove the majority of the bolts from underneath the rig
- All the center console stuff (armrest, trim around the shifters)
- entire shifter assembly, it all comes off in one piece
- crossmember once you're ready to support with a jack and tilt the drivetrain down
- disconnect all the clamps holding the 2 oil cooler (hard) lines to the engine and trans - you also must remove the oil cooler unions that are on the left side of the transmission housing half way up. They can be tough to remove. Very important that you disconnect the lines going into the top of both unions first, then unscrew the unions from the trans itself. I was trying to pull them straight out for ages, not realizing they are threaded in
- You can get to every oil cooler tube clamp without tilting the drivetrain except for 1 at the top. That one I had to tilt the drivetrain down before I could get a socket on it. I was able to keep the whole tube assembly intact this way.
I think that was everything I had to remove.
Some stuff is going to fight you, some bolts are hard to remove, but enough patience and the right tools you should be just fine.
Must have tools besides the obvious would be flexhead ratcheting wrenches, long box end wrenches (helpful in certain scenarios), nano/short sockets which I actually used a lot (Astro sells some nice sets), and those goofy looking s-shaped wrenches (only needed it once or twice but it saved me a lot of time).
Having a compact/stubby impact driver helped too and could fit in spaces that standard sized impacts otherwise wouldn't.
@gnarlynick2072 how did you go about plugging up the inlet and outlet nipples on the radiator for the trans oil lines?
The first thought that came to mind was just running a hose from one nipple to the other and forgetting about it. But curious how others did this.
The first thought that came to mind was just running a hose from one nipple to the other and forgetting about it. But curious how others did this.
Hi guys,
I'm on the route to make my swap from auto to manual H151.
I have everything except the rear drive shaft. I know it should be longer than mine, but I don't want to extend current one, so I'm looking for the part number of the one for mtm.
I'm with lx450 and transfer case HF2AV.
Can you help with drive shaft part number ?
I'm on the route to make my swap from auto to manual H151.
I have everything except the rear drive shaft. I know it should be longer than mine, but I don't want to extend current one, so I'm looking for the part number of the one for mtm.
I'm with lx450 and transfer case HF2AV.
Can you help with drive shaft part number ?
I just wanted to add to this thread in case a future someone tackles this swap, hopefully this helps.
Below is a picture of everything I needed to remove BEFORE I was ready to pull the transmission:
That would include:
- Battery and battery tray
- driveshafts
- Throttle and kick down cable (probably didn't need to remove the throttle cable)
- loosen fan shroud (I didn't end up removing it to take out the auto)
- clutch fan
- Starter motor - I removed mine completely
- Trans dipstick
- Oil cooler and disconnect the lines from it. You don't need to remove it though, you just need to disconnect the soft lines
- 2 front mudguards for easier access to things
- front grille
- A couple of sheet metal covers underneath the vehicle (one for the trans/xfer case, one around where the trans and engine meet)
- Front exhaust pipes (make sure to buy new gaskets and bolts/nuts for these)
- Shifter linkages for the auto and transfer shifters. I think I remove the majority of the bolts from underneath the rig
- All the center console stuff (armrest, trim around the shifters)
- entire shifter assembly, it all comes off in one piece
- crossmember once you're ready to support with a jack and tilt the drivetrain down
- disconnect all the clamps holding the 2 oil cooler (hard) lines to the engine and trans - you also must remove the oil cooler unions that are on the left side of the transmission housing half way up. They can be tough to remove. Very important that you disconnect the lines going into the top of both unions first, then unscrew the unions from the trans itself. I was trying to pull them straight out for ages, not realizing they are threaded in
- You can get to every oil cooler tube clamp without tilting the drivetrain except for 1 at the top. That one I had to tilt the drivetrain down before I could get a socket on it. I was able to keep the whole tube assembly intact this way.
I think that was everything I had to remove.
Some stuff is going to fight you, some bolts are hard to remove, but enough patience and the right tools you should be just fine.
Must have tools besides the obvious would be flexhead ratcheting wrenches, long box end wrenches (helpful in certain scenarios), nano/short sockets which I actually used a lot (Astro sells some nice sets), and those goofy looking s-shaped wrenches (only needed it once or twice but it saved me a lot of time).
Having a compact/stubby impact driver helped too and could fit in spaces that standard sized impacts otherwise wouldn't.
View attachment 4053147
That is eye opening, to say the least. Curious, what was the role of the mudflap in the pic?
Good luck, I gave up in my search. I spent like 600 bucks to have a local shop modify the driveshafts. Both driveshafts will need to change, FYI.
I know that both need change. However I found the front drive shaft genuine in good condition. But why to spend money to change existing one working with auto transmission, instead I want to by the rear one and I need part number for that.
i wonder if PartsOuq or Amaya may have the p/n you seek.
I made research in amayama. I found lc80 with manual transmission spec 1fz-fe and I found 3 drive shafts available, so it realy depends what transfercase is matched with. Also they are different years, some starts from 1992 - 1998, otheres 1995 - 1998 and 1995 - 2006.
However only 2 specs are close to LX450
FZJ80L-GNMEKV
FZJ80L-GCMEKV
But as I mentioned they are with 3 different part numbers for rear drive shaft
Good find, good luck man! When I’m home I’ll see if I have the part number written down for the rear shaft!
I'm manual swapping an HDJ81 VX Limited (HDJ81V-RNPGW) so I used the schematic for a manual VX (HDJ81V-RNMEW) as I had done some research and found pictures of that model with an HF2AV transfer case like I have.
P/N for the rear prop shaft is 37110-60610.
When it came in I verified length by holding it up (still in plastic.) OEM auto prop shaft is about 37.5" installed, and -60610 is about 39" collapsed.
Haven't installed it yet but it looks right. Front driveshaft is 37140-60330 if anyone wanted that p/n as well.
Thank you ikarus!
My conclusion from the research was pointing the same part numbers for front and rear, but wanted to be sure before ordering.
These 2 specs are from MTM - VX - 1fe-fz (1995 - 1998) LHD
FZJ80L-GNMEKV
FZJ80L-GCMEKV
It made it easier to access the exhaust manifold on one side and removing the starter and getting to some of the oil cooler tube bolts on the other side.
You can also try Impex' used section, I've seen manual driveshafts for sale from them more than once. Will save you quite a bit vs new, you just have to pick wisely.
Would Impex have a H152f do you think? I've never considered that route before!
Better order h152 from Australia. There are some companies which makes tunning on h151 and h152 as well.
Yes they do! About $1800 last time I looked a few months ago.
Shipping was about $1000.
Then tariffs on top of that, which are very high because you get tariffed two fold - once for a general Japanese tariff, and then again for a steel and aluminum tariff.
Why is Australia better over Japan?